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e34-520iSE View Drop Down
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Joined: 22-December-2003
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: i.c.e in e34
    Posted: 29-January-2005 at 12:08
Hi Les, It does sound like a quality speaker. I am
wondering if anyone else on the forum is using one.
Maybe they could tell you of their experience with it. I
bet it sounds great being able to run down to 32Hz!
Can I show you a speaker we used in our systems?
It's called a Fane Colossus   http://
www.usspeaker.com/fane%20col18xb-1.htm

We used a pair of them each side running at 3000W
2 ohms, and they really can shift some air! I
remember washing my hair one day and drying it on
the blast from the subs. Awesome, but probably
irrelevant in the car world. It would just break the
windows anyway.........

Cheers,

Shaun
Self confessed madman
1990 Brilliantrot 2 ltr M20.

Air force definition of explosives: A loud noise followed by the sudden going away of what was once there a second ago.



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518les View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2005 at 03:56

e34-520iSE
hi,ive never had a problem with the thump on start up.as for the dc current to the speakers,i havnt seen nothing go wrong yet,i currently have a kenwood tornado on there and that sounds excellent,but you cant turn it up no more than half way as the amp takes over and sub flex`s like nothing youve ever seen.

ive seen a pioneer subwoofer in car audio direct for £109 and its a compition series,Key features TS-W121SPL

  • Interlaced Glass Fibre/Carbon Fibre Reinforced IMPP cone
  • Wide-roll, 3-layer fibre woven radial surround
  • Double-stacked high power magnets
  • Silver binding post terminal
  • Aluminium die-cast basket with bottom hold structure
  • Extended and vented pole yoke
  • Dual 4 ohm voice coils (2 or 8 ohm)

    Features TS-W121SPL

  • Frequency response 18 - 2.000 Hz
  • Sensitivity (1W/1m) 89 dB
  • QTS 0.328
  • Recommended sealed enclosure (Litres) 42.5
  • Lowest resonance frequency (FS) 32 Hz
  • Maximum Power 2.000 Watt
  • Nominal input power 750 Watt
  • VAS 34.53 l
  • Woofer size (cm) 30 cm
  • Dual 4-ohm voice coils: 2 or 8 ohm
  • What do u think,worth getting????
  • cheers les

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    e34-520iSE View Drop Down
    Really Senior Member I
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    Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-January-2005 at 14:11
    Hi! I've just read a review of you amp, written by Brian
    Smith from the USA. Quote.......

    "This powerhouse is designed to push 1748 watts
    into a 2-ohm reactive load. The best thing about the
    D300HC is that you don’t need a train-load of
    batteries to power it. While it is capable of drawing
    around 180 amps at full output, most of that power is
    making it to your speakers as opposed to a max of
    about 50 percent seen in most other designs. On
    the down side, turn on/off noises (48.1 dB SPL, 44
    dB SPL, respectively) and signal-to-noise
    measurements were a bit higher than usual (–86
    dB) — but if you need 1700 watts, what’s a little pop?
    The amp also utilizes a protection circuit that limits
    current if you try to run it below its rated 2-ohm
    impedance"

    Sounds like a very good unit, putting all that power in
    a 2ohm load. Very efficient! I think you can buy
    separate anti thump relay kits that will stop the
    power-on thump tearing the cone. The other thing
    that would kill a speaker is if the amp output went
    DC. Do you get protection from that too? The red-hot
    voice coil ring looks great though.......!

    Best of luck with the install, & I hope you do well in
    competitions.

    Shaun
    Self confessed madman
    1990 Brilliantrot 2 ltr M20.

    Air force definition of explosives: A loud noise followed by the sudden going away of what was once there a second ago.



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    518les View Drop Down
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    Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-January-2005 at 16:14

    hi all,thanks for the input,im gonna lay down some 4 gauge wire to the amp with a 3 farad cap,im trying to get hold of my friend in the states so i can get hold of a quality spl sub,as im going to try and enter a few comptitions, 

    e34-520iSE..hi there,the amp is a mmats dc300hc,its a serious bit of kit and very rare in england probaly 1 in 10,it has dual mosfet power supplys,and is class d,meaning its very efficent,and always runs cool,never gets hot like `named` brands.my friend who i bought it off said its a modified one which is close to 2000 watt rms and was in the states used in spl drag racing,he won several comps as he had two running 4 rockford 15`s,he tweaked it to 167.8 dbls in a gmc suburban! les

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    Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-January-2005 at 12:28
    ooo, you're trying to pull 100-130A for your sub amp,
    plus the power for your mids & HF speaker amp.
    which could be somewhere around 800 watts(60A
    ish peaks) to give some sort of balanced sound,
    PLUS the power that the car needs to function. As
    Badger540 & E34M5 says you would need a large
    stiffening capacitor and a second battery. A much
    larger output alternator would need some serious
    power cables to and from both batteries and you
    may find you have to work out a duty cycle to make
    sure nothing gets toasted. I would suggest limiting
    the amp's output until you can power it properly or it
    will just trip out or damage itself.
    I worked for nearly ten years in the audio industry
    and worked with some huge MOSFET amps and the
    ethos was 1 amplifier channel per speaker. Those
    amp racks would give out 30kW of noise and we too
    would have to sit and work out how much electricity
    we needed at maximum volume before we could
    turn anything on.

    Cheers,

    Shaun
    Self confessed madman
    1990 Brilliantrot 2 ltr M20.

    Air force definition of explosives: A loud noise followed by the sudden going away of what was once there a second ago.



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    Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-January-2005 at 05:52
    Sounds like you need a nova not an E34 ...On a more serious note have you checked that you have got a good earth to the amp ?

    1991 525i Sport Manual


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    Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-January-2005 at 17:05

    What are you going to do with 1.7kW of amplification?

    I would think that you would need an additional battery, stiffening capacitor and a high output alternator , for example, off an auto V8 (140A) at the minimum................oh and some ear defenders !!!

    Andy

    Badger540      West Midlands
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    518les View Drop Down
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    Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-January-2005 at 16:38

    hi there,ive just installed a mmats amp and kenwood sub in my 34 and when i turn up the volume my lights dim badly and the car jumps to the bass? ive never had this problem with my other cars and was wondering if 1.the batterys dead or 2.the alternator cant keep up the requierd voltage.

    the amp is a class d,1700 rms,subwoofer amp and reguires at least 100 amps and 14volts at full chat,so what do u guys think,new alternator?

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