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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-December-2005 at 08:05

Hi Karl, Ok back to basics. They are not 3 distinct metal particles, they are blended to become a semi-alloy (patented) in the shape of tiny spheres. [RESTORE CSL smooth spheres, even at 20 microns diameter, easily pass through flexible paper filter elements (ie paper fibres) rated at 8 micron, (from Fram Motorcraft Unipart etc). Jagged engine particles down to 1 micron however get caught in the same filter media. ]. The CSL particles are formed into a semi-alloy using a mig type welder feeding three wires copper, lead, silver into a vacuum, the copper forms a sub-micron matrix and the silver and then the lead fill the matrix. Similar to making musket balls in a lead shot tower by pouring molten lead down a tall tower or 'chimney'. what arrives on the ground are musket balls of various sizes.

The repair is not soft and does not erode, but also does not have to be the same hardness as the steel shafts and gears. in a gearbox the CSL particles improve the ball bearings, and bronze bearings and bushings which is where the lash, whine and stickiness comes from. Broken gear teeth are broken gear teeth and RESTORE cannot repair broken parts, only worn parts. is this ok? thks dave

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-December-2005 at 08:55

It all sounds very impressive, but then so does any good sales pitch. No offence intended Dave, it's just I work closely with companies that sell process additives to the chemical industry so I have learned to be sceptical.

What we need is a member of the forum/club with a worn nikasil engine to test it out on 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-December-2005 at 09:03
and who's going to admit to that!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-December-2005 at 08:07
My information is that Nikasil engines were fine when used on longer (1hr+) commutes or medium journeys and/or low sulphur fuel. 'they' like sulphur in the fuel as it acts like a top end lubricant. But it was almost exclusively 'short trip' engines arriving at 50,000 miles that showed the electrolysis reaction between the nickel, the moisture (from cold starts), sulphur in the fuel, and short runs where the engine didn't warm up. my guess is that the moist engine then sat at the station and corroded. Nickel does not sit well with water and sulphur (h2+so3 = sulphurous acid which then oxidizes to h2so4 = sulphuric acid which eats nickel and steel). any other inputs or experience from anyone? both BMW and Jag changed out the engines under warranty without a wimper.... but it was very expensive... thanks dave 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-December-2005 at 17:39
Hmm, I see an experimental purchase of a 1-litre can coming up, just for a laugh....

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-December-2005 at 05:53

Not quiet, just reading with interest.

Personally I'm not convinced but then again it's your car not mine.

My adversion to oil addatives is well known on these boards and does not need to be restated.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2005 at 10:19
Originally posted by oilman oilman wrote:

Not quiet, just reading with interest.

Personally I'm not convinced but then again it's your car not mine.

My aversion to oil addatives is well known on these boards and does not need to be restated.

I've gone through "Slick-50" and "ZX-1" in past years, neither of which did my M30 engine any damage (now sitting on 155,000 miles). I'm game for a laugh where this type of thing is concerned, so I'll be testing this Ametech stuff mixed with the usual Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 at next oil change which is imminent....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2005 at 11:42

-what do you expect to see when you stick this stuff in a (hopefully) perfectly decent engine???

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2005 at 13:36
Originally posted by Brucey Brucey wrote:

-what do you expect to see when you stick this stuff in a (hopefully) perfectly decent engine???

God only knows, Brucey. Sure I'll let ye know if it all goes horribly wrong


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2005 at 13:36

I've posted chemical analysis of both slick 50 and ZX1 before.

I personally would not touch either with your bargepoles but then again as I've said before, it's not my car and I only ever use proper fully synthetic oils.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-December-2005 at 14:17
Originally posted by oilman oilman wrote:

I've posted chemical analysis of both slick 50 and ZX1 before.

I personally would not touch either with your bargepoles but then again as I've said before, it's not my car and I only ever use proper fully synthetic oils.

Fair comment, but at least you'll have the useful benefit of a real-life test (i.e. me) to confirm that the stuff doesn't work.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-December-2005 at 06:23

a lot of 'wonder additives' at best do no harm. So you feel pleased when your engine does not blow up, having put it in, which is, er... what it would have done anyway.....???

So the only fair test is to put it into a worn engine, measure power output, compression ratio, emissions, etc before and after.

Incidentally if these micro-particles are in the burnt oil (if it burns any, then again maybe you are not going to bother unless it does...) on a cat-equipped car I can't imagine for a moment that it will  do the cat any good whatsoever- they are easily poisoned.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-December-2005 at 08:28
Hi Brucey, OK so 120 million cans sold mainly in USA and Canada where every car has a catalytic converter,  and not one catalytic converter has been compromised. thanks dave
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-December-2005 at 08:40

How does it know when to stop "restoring"?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-December-2005 at 11:38

Two things happen in parallel. 1) after RESTORE is introduced the heat and pressure is reduced in the wear points so the heat attraction and burnishing effect on the RESTORE particles is reduced. 2) as miles go by the CSL particles are used up in the engine until by the next oil change there are no more left to circulate. that is why we recommend 5% RESTORE by oil volume for maintenance and up to 30% by volume for a major repair. the art is all about calculating how many particles the engine needs to completely repair itself. dave 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-December-2005 at 11:47

Call me a sceptic but two things spring to mind.

1) If this stuff is so good, why haven't the oil companies cottoned on and added it to their high mileage engine oils.

2) If it does what it says on the tin we won't bother buying new cars in years to come, we'll just let the engine repair itself.

Sorry but I just don't buy it myself.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-December-2005 at 12:39
I can see the need for new body shells on a yearly basis, but you are correct in that the engines can be made to last forever. 1) if the car  makers sneeze the oil companies shake in their boots. engine oil has always been made only just good enough. Car makers make a lot of money selling engines, pistons, rings etc. the oil companies make their oils only just to exceed the car makers specs. 2) Bejing Mining Co uses RESTORE in their entire Volvo Truck fleet. Beijing didn't buy any pistons liners cranks or blocks for 4 years. Volvo sent a hi-power team to find out who was making knock-off Volvo truck parts. What they found was a RESTORE Metal Treatment program in place. Beijing was rebuilding the truck engines every 500,000 km but was simply re-assembling the old engines with new rubber hoses, seals and gaskets but with the ORIGINAL pistons rings cranks and main and con rod bearings because there was nothing wrong with the parts (due to RESTORE). So you are quite correct, engine wear metal can last forever with RESTORE in the lubricant program. Yes, old engines could be recycled into the latest body shells. thks dave
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-December-2005 at 12:48

Hmm, not convinced.

Send me some and I'll have it chemically analysed then I'll be able to see what is actually in it.

If this product is as good as you say, I'm sure you'll have no problem obliging.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-December-2005 at 09:24

UPDATE:

Right, a 1-litre can has just arrived on my doormat.....


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-December-2005 at 09:44
This sounds like it could run and run (if you excuse the pun)
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