Hit a curb - Snow chaos |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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Posted: 24-January-2010 at 18:30 |
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Recently I was driving on snow covered road and near a turn I could not manage to turn quickly enough and hit a curb. Well I was doing probably 5-10 mph then turned the steering wheel slowly but car kept going straight; slight braking did not help either. My left side front wheel hit the curb from side. It was bit noisy and I thought some serious damage has been done. Stopped then looked at the impacted wheel and could not see anything wrong at all. I was surprised and carried on my journey. But soon I realized that not everything is ok. I could feel that left wheel isn't moving 100% freely; it is having extra friction for part of its rotation. Today I jacked that wheel up and tried to rotate it by hand and it was not moving freely. For part of rotation (appx 40-60 degrees) it was bit jam and then it moved with less friction afterwards. This behaviour was as if something is rubbing off the wheel at somepoint. I could not find anything obvious causing the problem! Is this a total screwup or just big alignment issue? How hard it is to fix? Is this going to be pocket draining? Worth mentioning that steering is slightly off center and car follows road on its own based on road gradient. But this behaviour is since before this accident. Thanks for reading. |
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540 V8
Bavarian-Board Contributor Lick my badge Joined: 07-December-2005 Location: Running the asylum Status: Offline Points: 2280 |
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From what you say, you may hve damaged the wheel bearing or perhaps knocked the caliper slightly off it's mount though wheel bearing seems more likely. If you jack the wheel up, try and shake the wheel by grabbing the top and bottom and try rocking it back and forth. If you get play this way then there is definatley a problem. Strange thing is, you usually damage the wheel/suspension/tyre more often than not and to have no damage to that but the symptoms you explain seems a little strange. If the wheel is 'grabbing' then there is something out of line in conjunction with the rotational direction of the wheel. I'd take the wheel off and see if there is anything obvious and if not sounds like a visit to a garage may be in order. Fingers crossed it's nothing too serious. I wouldn't risk driving it though, not long journeys or fast anyway! Mike |
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Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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Thanks for answering. Car is still under warranty. I know this kind of faults won't be convered under warranty but is it worth trying?
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Andrew Rolland
Moderator Group Go away rain Joined: 19-August-2004 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 6579 |
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Accident damage will not be covered by warranty. Might be worth a try but depending on how strict they are, they might see thru it as accident damage and not do it for free. You might be lucky, my wife got a crakced wishbone done on her Escort within a few months of hitting a pothole under warranty. Are you sure the grabbing isn't just the brake pads rubbing on the disc? I recently hit a pothole which mangled one of my front alloys, no damage on the outside of the rim but the inside of it was bent in on itself. Car then started to pull to left and had a vibration. Needed new alloy, tyre and a full four wheel alignment where the tracking was adjusted. Afterwards car tracks straight and true with no vibration. Take it to a garage for a full four wheel alignmanet and ask them to check over the suspension. Edited by Andrew Rolland |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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How do I know if brake pads are rubbing off the disc? Any quick way of verifying that. |
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Andrew Rolland
Moderator Group Go away rain Joined: 19-August-2004 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 6579 |
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No easy way other than experience. You can hear a light rubbing noise or light grinding that comes from the caliper/brake pad area. Other than that you could get an idea from spinning the other front wheel to gauge the resistance. Probably best taking it to a garage incase you have damaged something. Reading your first post again, I'm guessing that your tracking was out before the accident as you said "steering is slightly off centre". It's worth getting it sorted now and in doing so, they will check the suspension components for damage. Not to mention that you have probably been scrubbing your tyres slightly with the steering being off centre. |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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Booked in for tomorrow at BMW dealership, lets see if they
do it under warranty or rip me off. |
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540 V8
Bavarian-Board Contributor Lick my badge Joined: 07-December-2005 Location: Running the asylum Status: Offline Points: 2280 |
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Is it worth trying the insurance company? If you have protected no claims you could get the lot done for the cost of your excess? Most mechanics, especially at main dealers aren't stupid, they will spot the difference between wear and tear and accident damage. Your best bet is to ask them to check it over and quote you for any work before they carry it out and make sure you get the quote in writing before you say yes! Mike |
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Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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Update: Today dealer called me to inform that this won't be covered under warranty as this could have been caused by curb hit or some other form of physical damage. Luck didn't work. No problem. Thanks Mike for your suggestion to ask for written quote before billing meter starts. So they gave me a quote for following items which will need replacing: 1) Wheel rim with tyres Total cost: £2448.00 ONLY. This price also includes rear pad replacement with DISCS! My iDrive says 1800 miles to go for rear wheel pads but they said it is just 3mm so now disc will need replacing. I am not bothered about this now, will see later. I told them that I am in a state of shock, once I recover then I will call you back tomorrow. Don't do any work until I place orders. As you can easily guess I will take my car from them tomrrow (they need to fit new radio console button which is under warranty repair) and then I will speak to a local mechanic near my office. I can't see any problem with the wheel with the naked eye but I am not sure if there is something beyond visibility. Also I think if wheels are having any kind of problem then car will vibrate badly on higher speed and I won't have to struggle to feel the rubbing vibration. Anyway not sure on this.As Mike and Andy said it could be wheel bearing and/or pads rubbing on the disc. Guys, from bmwfans website can you please tell me what part number I may need to buy for bearing and related component if bearing is found faulty? Should I buy from dealership or I can buy it off ebay if there is huge price difference, which I think will be the case. How about non-oem stuff? Getting this ripoff quote I am totally lost my trust with the main dealer, they always try to charge 3-5 times higher then what it will cost be in real. Last time they quoted £1000 for something which I got done for appx. £200 outside with oem parts. Btw. how much work will be involved in this. I would love to do DIY as I am living alone for next 1 month or so and nothing much to do? Worth trying?
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Andrew Rolland
Moderator Group Go away rain Joined: 19-August-2004 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 6579 |
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Does sound pricey. BMW are right to tell you that your rear pads need doing at that thickness. What mileage have you done on the car? You will be paying probably nearly £100 from the dealer for each set of 4 pads and each brake disc so that's probably nearly £600 for the brake parts plus say £200 for the bearing. Say 4 hours to fit all that at £75/hour. Your wheel and tyre will be atleast £500, I've just spent £516 getting a new rim and tyre. What does that add up to? £1600 plus vat at 17.5 = £1880 ish? What other bits are you needing doing? Buying OEM parts from Eurocar parts you could halve the brake part bill. Brakes are easy diy, not done the E60 yet but the E39 wasn't difficult. You are stuffed for BMW for the rim though. Edited by Andrew Rolland |
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Ballcock
Senior Member II Joined: 07-September-2006 Location: Galway Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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What is the damage to rim & tyre ? Are they just quoting for replacement of them due to the obvious impact damage to other components and making assumptions that there must be some internal damage ? If there is no visible sign of damage to the alloy/tyre and it balances OK, then I wouldn't bother. You don't change a tyre every time you hit a pothole citing possible internal tyre damage.... And no, I'm not advising skimping on tyres, just BMW having a laugh. They aint selling too many cars this weather and are recouping costs on things like this ! If there is damage to rim, get it repaired (minor buckle only - cracked then bin it alright) |
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Ballcock
Senior Member II Joined: 07-September-2006 Location: Galway Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Slightly O/T but an interesting read here regarding some BMW alloys being prone to cracking - not all being as a result of impact damage it would seem. http://www.bbc.co.uk/blogs/watchdog/2009/10/bmw_alloy_wheels .html |
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jetsetwilly2000
Really Senior Member II Joined: 10-December-2003 Location: Cambridgeshire Status: Offline Points: 701 |
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My brother was fitting out 535dTs for breakdown techs for a while, and they replaced all the OE alloys as a matter of course because so many cracked (cars were well loaded but well within the max)
Don't bother with non-oem stuff, just go to ECP, GSF or motormec, should be way less than the stealer prices. For a simple wheel/tyre check, do the other work and then swap the fronts over, and see what that feels like. |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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My car has done 27k miles on the clock. Wheel is 172 style
so costs a bit more, they said it is 350+ without VAT. They calculated almost whole wheel and other axle assembly for that side, even the thickness sensors! Today I will see the quote in writing once I go to collect my car. I would post each item here. I can confirm that I did not see any cracks on the alloys neither I could see any buckling. dealer is telling it is all buckled up. Can that be repaired if there aren't any cracks? I will check wheel bearing myself over the weekend. |
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Andrew Rolland
Moderator Group Go away rain Joined: 19-August-2004 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 6579 |
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You won't be able to fix a buckled alloy yourself to a suitable standard. The crakced wheel reference above will not have been what BMW have picked up on your wheel if it has signs of loosing an argument with a kerb. 27,000 miles and you need new rear pads and discs! You must be driving everwhere with the traction control on I've done 26,000 miles in mine since I've got it and the service interval for the rear pads gets longer the more I drive it. Go figure that, cos I can't! |
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jetsetwilly2000
Really Senior Member II Joined: 10-December-2003 Location: Cambridgeshire Status: Offline Points: 701 |
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Bayesian probability dear boy. The car calculates your pads' life based on their current thickness and some (probably preset) estimate of the wear rate. However, if it overestimates, and your pads stay thicker for longer, then it has to recalculate from the new start point. But if it still overestimates the wear rate then it'll do the same thing repeatedly. A cleverer system would learn the wear rate, but even so it'll only be a rough prediction based on the past.
It's like estimating your lifespan. Based on the population stats, at birth you might have a 20% chance of living to see 80, but at 75 it's more like 70%. Had fun explaining that to my dad a few years ago! Edited by jetsetwilly2000 |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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Is it good excuse to get my wheel upgraded to 20" I checked eBay and found JADE R alloys for appx £1200, are they worth it? I am not into wheels so never heard Jade R before but look wise it was impressive. I anyway need four new tyres, rear ones has 3mm tread left and front has many cuts and bruises. |
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Ballcock
Senior Member II Joined: 07-September-2006 Location: Galway Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Pure muck - stay away. They'll buckle much quicker than any BMW wheels the first pothole you hit. I'd still look at getting the wheel refurb'd if only a minor buckle. Get BMW to point out exactly where it's buckled and make a judgement yourself. Alloy wheel repair technology has come on a lot since the days of a lump hammer and scaffold pole..... |
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Andrew Rolland
Moderator Group Go away rain Joined: 19-August-2004 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 6579 |
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20" alloys! You'll have no spine left! Way too bling for me. |
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afsar
Senior Member II Joined: 25-November-2007 Status: Offline Points: 172 |
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I am not going for it anymore. |
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