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Forum Locked1999 E39 523i touring wheel rattle.

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E39 JJ View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13-September-2009 at 15:57
Hello i hope someone can help, there is a tinny sounding rattle at the drivers side front wheel only when i go over bumps. I had the wheel off but couldn't see anything obvious, i only hear this with the window down and i can't feel any knocking. Spring seems to be fine and shock absorber doesn't seem to be leaking.
Thanks.
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wackenzie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wackenzie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-September-2009 at 12:48
This sounds like small stones stuck behind the heat shield
in-front of your pads.
This happens to loads of people (and mine constantly).
You either remove the shield to empty, but I have heard to
some guy who went really fast in reverse and braked
suddenly and this threw the stones out!.

cheers Pete.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-September-2009 at 13:20

Other that check every single screw on the brake splasher shield, check your anti roll bar links.

My rear ones on my E39 rattled very faintly when I replaced the non oem ones I fitted 14,000 miles prior with genuine BMW ones the rattle went.

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E39 JJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-September-2009 at 14:26

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I need to change discs and pads very soon so i will check for stones when i do that. After a bit of research on tinternet i do suspect the stones are the culprit. Thanks again.

Jason.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-September-2009 at 09:34

Just remember when changing your discs and pads make sure that you fit the correct pads to the correct side.  They are marked with R and L.  I only noticed this after fitting a set to one side and then went to fit the pads to the other side and realised my mistake and had to undo loads of bolts on the first side to get the correct pads! D'oh.!

You will need an 7 mm Allen key or is it 8 mm... for the caliper bolts (35Nm torque setting).  The torque setting for the caliper cradle is 110Nm, the size of hex socket escapes me.  You will also need a 11 mm open ended spanner for the bleed nipple screw which you will need to open to allow you to slide the caliper piston back into the caliper to allow the new fatter pads and discs to fit.  Don't get any brake fluid on your paintwork!

Easy diy job, I think I wrote up my E39 disc and pad change on here 3.5 years ago.  You could try searching.

I fitted Textar pads and ATE discs bought from EuroCar Parts for less than half the price from BMW.  Textar and ATE are the original equipment manufacturer for the brakes on your car.

Oh aye and make sure you buy a new pad wear sensor for about a fiver as there is a strong chance it will break when you remove it.  You only need one as there is only one break pad wear sensor per axle on the E39.

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote E39 JJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-September-2009 at 18:52

Thanks for the info, very much appreciated.

Jason

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-September-2009 at 21:15
Glad to help you out.
Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!

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'13 62 F10 535i MSport Auto

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'04 04 E60 545i SE Auto
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