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Topic Closed318ti turbo conversion

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Haigys.Hog View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 318ti turbo conversion
    Posted: 26-October-2004 at 09:52

does anyone know of anywhere over here that can supply me with some low compression pistons? or does anyone know the dimensions i would need to send a firm who does make them?

 

thanks guys

im stuck!!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-October-2004 at 13:37

How much power are you looking to produce?

You're probably safe up to about 5 or 6psi on stock compression.

Have a look at www.mi16turbo.co.uk

We're almost complete building an engine which displaces 1905cc to run 5psi of boost on largely standard internals but hope to produce in the region of 200bhp and 180lb/ft pf torque. Should be more than enough for the little 205 GTi :)



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-October-2004 at 04:39

what, on standard internals?

no piston changing?

what sort of gains could i expect to see if i left it virtualy standard?

iv just been quoted £135 to £150per piston!

jesus seems a bit steep i could swear iv seen them cheaper than that

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-October-2004 at 06:35

just checked your website out,a man of my own heart!

good luck with it all, keep me posted on how its going, i could of got hold of some gti 180 brakes for you pretty cheap,

im hoping to produce over 200bhp when its done

im using a T25 turbo aswell

pistons where can i get pistons.....................................??

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-October-2004 at 06:41
oh an post some pics of the engine being rebuilt on the website thats the bit i like to look at!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-October-2004 at 12:39

Not sure how much power the 318 makes normally, but you can get the ball rolling by working out the Pressure Ratio (PR) you need to run for your desired power output.

Take atmospheric air pressure to be 14.7psi. In the case of the Pug engine, it makes 160bhp at 14.7psi.

Because we're only using stock internals and have a 10.4 Compression Ratio (CR) we've decided to limit boost to 5psi so, to work out roughly what power we can hope to see once it's all done we work out the PR and multiply by the original power:

(14.7+5)/14.7=1.34

So with a PR of 1.34, multiplied by the original 160bhp, we get 214.4bhp

Knock a bit off for the inevitable losses we'll get and hopefully we should see about 200bhp :)

Points to note are that the ECU won't have a clue what's going on with positive manifold pressure, and that additional injectors are mediocre at best for providing the extra fuel required.

Secondly, the ignition is of paramount importance and an ECU which can retard the ignition relatice to boost is a bonus as it means you can keep standard consumprion etc off boost as the ignition can be nice and advanced, but on boost the ignition can still be set to it's optimum, rather than just having to retard the whole lot.

You can probably see that all this points to a full engine management system from someone like Emerald or OMEX (OMEX support knock sensors and VANOS now)

Will try and get some more piccies up soon :)

We got a full set of GTi180 brakes for about £377 inc vat and postage. Even got the pads thrown in too :)

You can get pistons made by accralite, but they're about £180+VAT each!

I'd recommend that you look further into engine management and intercooling as a means to keep the CR standard if possible. It does lessen the scope for turning the boost up, but it also lessens the cost in the first instance.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-November-2004 at 04:06

thanks mate your a great help,

im definately going to purchase some low comp pistons, top end motorsport in america have recomended 8.5:1 for street turbo conversions,good  for between 9 and 16 psi, the ti pushes out about 140 bhp standrd, so that should give me.....................

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-November-2004 at 08:44

Aah, there inlies the problem.

If you could get the standard engine to run 16psi, then that calc would give you an approximate figure of 292bhp.

However, one of the largest factors affecting power outputs, off boost drivability and fuel economy is the compression ratio. Lower it too much and the car will most likely feel slugish off boost and will return awful economy, plus it's unlikely that you'll see the 292bhp as the basic ability of the engine to make power has been reduced, along with the CR

Also, with a 100% hike in power, you are likey to need more than just low compression pistons to keep the thing together.

If you're only looking for 200bhp, then just over 6psi should get you there.

As I say though, do make sure that the engine management is up to the task of dealing with all the new data as, whilst it's possible to map a N/A engine on throttle position and engine speed/position, with a turbo that all goes out the window as the manifold pressure can vary wildly for any given combination of throttle opening and engine speed.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-November-2004 at 08:57

HI mate, im looking at the emerald ecu to control the engine, im also looking at the dastek with a turbo module thing on it,not sure which ones the best so im trying to find out,i could get away with 5-6 psi on standard pistons, but if im going to do it i mite aswell try and make a fire breathing monster! once the turbo is in place il be on the look out for larger injectors, il ake photos all the way along im making my own web site aswell so others will see not to bother doing it!

quick question

will i need to have a slightly larger sump made? when my mate was getting a quote for a t/c conv on his mx5 they recomended a slightly larger capacity sump

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-November-2004 at 12:05

I reckon Emerald are a pretty safe bet for this kind of thing as they'll undertake to map the finished product on a fixed price, which people often overlook when costing to convert to aftermarket ECUs.

Not sure about the sump. Guess it was recommended to take up the extra volume of oil held in the charger. Probably not a bad idea, but then if you keep your oil up to the top mark and regularly check it you probably won't have any problems.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-November-2004 at 03:56

where are emerald based? do they have like a network of installers ?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-November-2004 at 08:45

Think they're based in Norfolk.

Don't think they install the ECU as such, that's down to you, but they do map the system once it's installed. You could get any rolling road who does mapping to get it done, but then you'd probably be on some crazy hourly rate.

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-November-2004 at 11:07

cheers mate,

the turbo turned up today, its brand new, but the actuator isnt the right one, and thats not new, what would you say to do? new actuator or make this one fit?

 

thanks for all your advice so far its been a great help

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-November-2004 at 12:11

Ooh, that's a tough one. It's probably better to get the right one for the job in the long run. What's the turbo, a T25 or a TD04 or something?

That said, I'd probably bodge it on some how....and then regret it later.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-November-2004 at 03:55
the turbo is a t25, im looking at an electronic boost controller aswell, hks one, seems to only be available for jap cars tho, but im sure a good auto electrician can make on fit
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-November-2004 at 08:46

Shouldn't worry about the boost controller as the Emerald, and most other aftermarket ECUs, can control the boost for you :)

All you need is a solenoid boost valve from a rover turbo engine or something similar and you're away!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2004 at 09:41

Hi GT6-M3  me again!

right iv had a change of plan, im going to charge it on stock compression, whats the maximum psi i can/should go to without hearing a rather large clunking ,hissing,kaboom, expensive noise?

im also going to buy a turbo display to keep an eye on things here check it out and let me know what you think

www.turbodisplay.com

im going to have an in car manual boost controller, so i can use the two together, doesnt sound like a bad idea, the display can control water injection and/or a 5th injector,then i think im going to get a dastek unichip mapped to the engine to control the ignition fueling etc, what do you think?

sorry for all the questions but you are doing it yourself and you have a good old bit of on the job knowledge which i could use right now as r lass is in a permanent beef 

 

thanks [in anticipation of yet another reply!]

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