Oh oh problems

Ok guys as you know I bought a cheap 750il. Love the car, but 300 miles later I waited for Mr RAC to get me home. The charge light came on in the morning, but a quick rev seemed to do the trick. It came on in the evening and didnt go out. 15miles later everything started switching off and eventutally the engine switched to 1 bank with the EML on and then stopped. The belt it ok, so can an alternator fail just like that?

The radiator has a slight leak which doesnt concern me much, but my biggest problem is the engine. It doesnt seem to use oil by revving it at standstill, but at kickdown at 'other speeds' a light cloud can be seen in the rear view mirror.

Finanicially I know I shouldnt bother, but this car is a project which means I should, I just didnt reckon on the lot at once.

So how do I get the alternator out (if you guys think its that)?

If lots of dismantling is required given the oil burn, I could fix that engine, drop in another either second hand or recon. Now the natural thing that does appeal would be the 5.4 v12, or 4.4v8 litre from an E38. Would this work out ok, or do you guys have other suggestions.

Still happy though....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't know specifics about these engines, just general mechanical experience! I have known alternators to go just as you describe in the past. It can be a few different things with the same net result - no charge. Brushes in the alternator can wear, voltage regulators can fail - but as I say I don't know specifics so your car may not have old fashioned voltage regulators. Does the engine spin over at all? If not I would suggest testing the battery voltage - anything below 11V then either charge the battery or get a new one. If the engine starts, run it for a few minutes and check the battery voltage again - if below around 13.5V then there is a fault in the charging circuit. You have checked the belt, so it is likely there is a problem with the alternator in this case.

As for the oil smoke on kickdown, does this happen with the engine hot, cold or both? When cold it is possibly worn piston rings allowing oil up into the combustion chambers from the crankcase, when hot it may be oil getting down past worn stem seals but this would also show as a cloud of blue smoke when starting up. If both then it may well be a combination of the two. That's when it starts getting expensive....   

nice one mark

Put it in when you chang the oil and just leave it in there takes about 500 miles to fuly werk need 3 tins on 735 arfter that just one tin on every oil change bit pricey at £20 a tin, but I think thay are doing it for £10  a tin at the mo for first orders. I bought 10 tins at classic car show last year but well werth it.

bmw1066 wrote: There is a oil you put in on oil chane. Ametech engin restore,  this stuf is fantastic put it in my 170000 mile e23 now smoth and berns no oil. also put in my Dads V8 Disco witch was very ratley has just transformed the car more power quiter and berns no oil you all shoud get some it is that good ...

They also sell it on e-Bay

yep. so there horsetan.

Ok guys. The RAC man checked that there was no charge whenn he jump started the car from his van. The second he disconnected the jump leads the car cut out. Once he put a battery pack on the car it started up and ran fine for the next few miles home, with no EML. There was some smoke on start up , which I put down to running the engine on 1 bank for a while.

The reason I ask about other engines is that previously me and a mate had range rovers and when I looked to upgrade my 4.2 classic to a later 4.6 v8 (from the later series P38 RR) you could take all the leccy bits, or retain the old ECU with just a large fuel pressure regulator. So whilst the E32 engines have more modern electronics is the 5.4 still an M70 engine and is it poss to retrofit to an E32 (forget the v8 just being silly  )

If anyone can give me a bit of advice on how to remove the alternator id be v. grateful.

Assuming its worn piston rings, can these be changed with the engine it situ and are valve stem seals straight forward to repair (i.e. do the heads need to come off!)

I'm taking the view that ideally the current engine would be fixed, but if it had to come out, then putting in a better one would be worthwhile.

I'm not too keen on the additives idea, I can remember the old days of the gunk that restored compression by solidifying on the bores. Not saying this does that, but it would be nice to know how it works.

Cheers guys.

 

 

What you got to lose, I use a lot of diffrent st. and they work very well also if your car has not had reg oil chainges I would use an engin flush to get rid off all the crud, even cars that have oil changed reguley have a lot of crud. My brothers Renault 5 was rely bad dipite oil every 6000 miles. should have seen it when I touk the head of. you could be berning oil  slightley blocked oil ways and a lot of garages put a fulsh in the engin now,
 not shour about alternater but if that is hard think about to heads it is £60000 for a new e38 v8 I would not touch a second hand one, head set for one of these is over £300 I feal sory for the man when we tould him his head gasget had gon on his e38    

Edited by bmw1066

sounds like you need the E32 Bentley workshop manual. they cost about £70 new or get cheapo CD-ROM copy off Fleabay.

also check the Bimmerboard E32 section/ chat board.

 

www.bimmerboard.com

Suggest you put a fresh post up asking for 'shoguns' advise. Make it 750 secific.