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JC , e30 m3 
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 02-June-2003
Location: Surrey
Status: Offline
Points: 256
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 Topic: e36 misfire when cold
Posted: 09-May-2005 at 15:56 |
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A work mate of mine has an e36 m3 1995 which has a misfire from cold which disappears when full operating temp is reached. Any ideas? Is there a cold start map in the ecu for these engines? Sorry to be a bit vague but this is all I have at the mo, I have done a search for this but came up with only a disjointed thread with no ideas - most unlike this forum!! Thanks in anticipation.. By the way, he bought it recently for 5K, assuming this problem isn't serious, that sounds like a bargain?
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jamie
jamie@carlin.co.uk
www.carlin.co.uk
89 Europameister
78 911 SC
93 MK1 MX-5
98 Ford Focus
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Robbie Bradford
Really Senior Member II
Joined: 16-July-2004
Location: Co. Laois, Ireland.
Status: Offline
Points: 2124
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Posted: 09-May-2005 at 16:09 |
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I'm afraid its just the nature of the beast. I own the same model and mine misfires continually at idle, have'nt had time to trace the fault but hope to rectify the issue in the coming weeks. Definetely a bargain at 5k, tell him theres nothing to worry about.
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SHEPSM3
Bavarian-Board Contributor
UK Sport Evolution.
Joined: 26-December-2004
Location: Bristol, UK.
Status: Offline
Points: 1934
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Posted: 09-May-2005 at 17:57 |
I had a spate of BM's come in for misfires when cold and all the time, two were E36 M3's, one 320i 24v. All turned out to be the coil ontop of one of the spark plugs. You can often see which one is faulty by removing them and inspecting them. If they are cracked at coil casing then the spark jumps to the head and not the plug, hence the misfire. Would be worse when cold as the air around the coils/head gets a small amount of condensation which promotes any misfire and arcing out.
Be carefull though, one of them had to have a new ECU as the faulty coil actually spiked and damaged it!
This may not be what is wrong with yours, but it would be a good place to start.
Good luck. 
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[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ShepsM3/New-1a1.jpg">[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ShepsM3/New-1b1.jpg">
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Robbie Bradford
Really Senior Member II
Joined: 16-July-2004
Location: Co. Laois, Ireland.
Status: Offline
Points: 2124
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Posted: 09-May-2005 at 18:33 |
I've had all the coils checked etc. but they were all fine......mmmm i think i'll have them looked at again.
I also have a worrying dip in rpm on accasion. For example when i come to a roundabout or similar, i brake, change down to 2nd gear and the rpm needle drops down below 500 and then bounces back up before i apply the accelerator again.
This does not happen every instance and i'm really at a loss here!
I would appreciate if anyone could tell me a possible cause of this?
Are these two things related?
Could this be battery/alternator related, as when the rpm needle goes below 500, as above, my dash lights and headlights(at night) dim for a second but this is obviously the lack of power.
Help!
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SHEPSM3
Bavarian-Board Contributor
UK Sport Evolution.
Joined: 26-December-2004
Location: Bristol, UK.
Status: Offline
Points: 1934
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Posted: 09-May-2005 at 19:06 |
Richard,
Your idle dipping then bouncing back up is usually the idle air control valve sticking. It's probably a bit coked up and needs a clean. It's almost like you heal and toe the accelerator! 
There are loads of other things that can cause this, but try that 1st. Carb cleaner - take the valve off, buy a new can and spray the lot inside the valve. Shake it dry LOL! Sorry! Then fill the valve with WD40 and let it soak for 10 minutes. Shake all the WD out of the valve, refit it, then go and try.
I've also noticed a few e36's with sticky throttles, when you first apply the throttle pedale. This is usually a build up of carbon sticking the throttle butterfly to the throttle body. Again, carb cleaner works wonders here too.
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[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ShepsM3/New-1a1.jpg">[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ShepsM3/New-1b1.jpg">
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Robbie Bradford
Really Senior Member II
Joined: 16-July-2004
Location: Co. Laois, Ireland.
Status: Offline
Points: 2124
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Posted: 09-May-2005 at 19:23 |
Who's Richard dude? 
I had a problem with idle soon after i bought the car last July, fitted a new idle control valve which sorted the problem so i don't think this can be the cause.
I thought about the throttles and do they need to be adjusted and cleaned, i'll check this out and see if it cures the problem.
The heel, toe thing is usually accidental in my case
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SHEPSM3
Bavarian-Board Contributor
UK Sport Evolution.
Joined: 26-December-2004
Location: Bristol, UK.
Status: Offline
Points: 1934
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Posted: 09-May-2005 at 19:33 |
Robbie, Sorry! LOL!
Its late! Can't be the IACV then.
I guess it would have to be looked at. I had a 1927 Year not CC! Lancia in today, as the accelerator pedal was in the middle, heal and toe was VERY interesting! Hell, a carb I have never seen. and a mag that did all the sparks. The ignition timing too hours! We got it so good these days 
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[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ShepsM3/New-1a1.jpg">[IMG]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/ShepsM3/New-1b1.jpg">
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David321
Senior Member II
Joined: 13-October-2004
Status: Offline
Points: 202
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Posted: 06-March-2006 at 03:47 |
Guys,
Sorry to drag up an old thread. My car has the same idle problems as described hear (have been doing some searching!)
I cleaned up the MAF and the temp sensor in the intake yesterday using carb cleaner, but it's still idling/stalling like a pig. I couldn't find the idle control valve and didn't want to break too many joints and start causing air leaks.
Any offers on where it resides and the easiest way to dismantle for cleaning?
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E36 M3 Evo - Techno Violet
Previous & current rides...
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e36 misfire when cold