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skanders View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: BMW 320I OVERHEATING
    Posted: 24-July-2005 at 13:22
Hi guys I have posted  a photo  of the switch that was replaced can anyone shed some light on what the switch does it has a  hose attached
to it u can jus see it on the left the switch is circled to indicate where it is.


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kazzoo View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2005 at 17:46
Hope it has cured your problem,but keep an eye on it,should only be water coming out of the bleed screw not steam which is inclined to suggest that there is not enough coolant in the system because of an air lock,best of luck.
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skanders View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2005 at 15:38
The situation is now resolved guys  we had to change somekind of switch at the backof the engine not sure what it was but its got a  hose attached to it.

It was near wear the ecu is silver one any ideas what it is as it doesnt even say in the haynes manual.

Seems like it was blocking it somehow.

?
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skanders View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2005 at 07:28

Yeh thats what happens when the car is running and the needle in the middle, steam and small spittles of water does come out of the bleed hole and continues to come out and never ends basically, I would like to know what i should do with this leave it running until it ends ?.

Also the thermostat has been put in diagonally should i put it so that the bleed hole is pointing up.

Could any small pin holes in the pipes cause this.

Can too much water be an issue as it is way over the cold mark.

I know that when the thermostat is not in the car there is warm air coming out of the heaters when they are on.

But when it is in the heaters blow cold air and no warm air and then it overheats after about 3 miles or so but have noticed that when going up hill it cools.

The system has been bled and bled over and over again with no luck.

Could anyone please answer my questions i know there has been a lot but i am looking for a resolution to the problem i dont want to pay a garage £££££ for an airlock if it is that cos some garages will make it up for the £££££££.

 

cheers gents appreciate it.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2005 at 04:44
You know mate I think you still have air in your system,I had a leaking pipe which I changed some time ago and It took me bloody ages to bleed the system,kept overheating until I manually pressurised the system and kept adding coolant until it was forced out of the bleed screw,problem cured.If the vehicle is warmed up and you release the bleed screw water should flow out,be careful very hot but if steam is coming out,hissing sound, then there is air in the system and very low on water,good luck.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2005 at 04:15
If the head gasket is leaking combustion gases into the coolant, a hydrocarbon tester will sniff this out. Any MOT station has one of these testers as they use them to test exhaust emissions.
Cheers, Neil
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-July-2005 at 18:39
What would indicate a leaky or cracked head gasket and if it is that is  it a  difficult job  if u wanna do  it yourself.

please advise.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-July-2005 at 08:23
Think there is supposed to be a small hole in the thermostat that goes to the top when fitted. Not sure how this would affect the heaters not blowing warm air though, just my opinion but sounds like it is airlocked.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-July-2005 at 06:09

Well guys it was fine when fixed yday but while going to work it started to overheat again went all the way into the red so i had to pull over.

Theres no hot air blowing through the heaters my dad seems to think that it seems to be sucking up air somehow.

Any advice guys could it be head gasket, but when thermostat is not in the car it seems fine.

Also is there any particular way the thermostat needs to be in the car as I hav put it in diagonally in the 11.25 position can it start to overheat if it is in the wrong position.

Please help.

Cheers.

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-July-2005 at 18:30

The needle on mine only does just over the half way mark but never moves. I take it this is normal but I may be corrected.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-July-2005 at 14:24
The car  now seems to be fine but i did notice  the needle jus go over a little bit  past the middle  and  stay there is it normal for a beamer to overheat a little bit.

please advise.

thanks.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-July-2005 at 18:20
hey dudes yes it was the  coupling the fan is now  perfect and running much faster stops dead instantly when you turn the car off  well was running fine until a  loud  crashing sound lift up the hood and  seems like the  fan blades caught on something and smashed to pieces.

So now i need some new fan blades doh seems like it caught on the rad cover.

but hey ho new blades it is.


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skanders View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-July-2005 at 18:07
Another question guys can overheating  affect  fuel  consumption  as well as my  320i is drinking for fun .
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-July-2005 at 14:28

Yeh fair enough you are right at some point things are gonna need mending even human beings break down for crying out loud then again its better that they all come along at once rather than one at a time.

Anyway I love the thing I dont think I will sell it until it gets to about 160k its at 103k at the mo so a long way to go.

Anyway I should have it all done by friday.

PS:- is there anywhere i can post pictures of it.

 

thanks.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-July-2005 at 13:50

Hi Simple......years ago I had a E30 M3

To cut story short, new chain, new main bearings, new wiper mechanisnm, new seat, new brakes all around, new........everything. And Years later.....I miss that car like mad. Had a cosworth mercedes, a 911, alpina's etc. But THAT car..... I want it back.

In short, ALL cars will go at some time. A lot needs doing all at once. If its a renault etc it will carry on, if a proper car like yours, chances are after a wile it will stop and will carry on. My 3.0 csl has done so. evry 5 years needs 2k spent. And the old 750 as well. But for the next 5 years its spot on all the time. My old 500 sec is the same. Every 6 years a few major things come along. But it was a 80k car to start with. If you were the original owner, would you cre for a 3 k  service....... same principle applies I think. Good luck , take care, A

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-July-2005 at 12:51

Hi,

Thanks for your advice antonio I have the new thermostat and the new coupling it will be installed tomorrow and then i will go ahead and get a new waterpump as well.

I have not had a lot of luck with this car its great but since i bought it in march ive had the shocks, brakes, bumper (cos i broke it), door handle (interior), bleed screw, door panel fixed.

And now the thermostat, coupling and need a new tyre and need to fix one of the wipers cos i broke it tightening the screw too much but am gonna try and fix it if i can or get a new arm and lost ma left fog light cos it fell out.

So DOH! so far but the car itself as in driving experience has been beautiful and i still love it but jus had a bit of bad luck.

Oh well it can be fixed or should i off it what would you do in my shoes.

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-July-2005 at 09:30

Hi,

After 20 years of owning Bm's went to Mercedes, now back on right track.

Sorry to intrude, you have a few small problems here:

You have fixed the bleed screw. So now the system pressurises as it should. You remove the termostat. So, all the coolant will be at the mercy of the elements. So, if you get stuck in traffic, even with a new coupling on your fan, at idle the car will not cool itself down enough. Some people raise the revs (2000 is enough) as an emergency measure and car cools down a little.At 70mph on a winters day the car will be running very cold, in the blue really.

Answer, new termostat asap. They are dirt cheap. Second, new water pump. You have stated it is the plastic type. With age they don't only desintegrate but with heath they stop turning with the shaft, ie the shaft turns ok but the plastic has expanded so it stays still. And you overheath.

For its cost, new fan clutch or viscous coupling. And lastly, make sure there are no air locks at all. Bleedin explained before. Okok so its £100 spent and a mornings work, a new head will be 7 times that.

There is no point in cutting corners, thermostats go, the water pump was a design fault and bmw corrected it, the viscous fan degradates after 60k give or take.

I hope this helps, Antonio

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-July-2005 at 07:27

Can be almost 100% certain that the viscous coupling on the fan is not working correctly. When the air travelling through the radiator is at a certain temp the coupling stiffens up to drive the fan, when cooler it eases the grip, almost like a heat variable clutch. If, when the water is hot the fan will not shred a paper or you can stop the fan with it, the coupling is shot and a new one is required. If you have a plastic impeller on the pump then definately replace as they are prone to failure, usually at speed.

Rob

1990 E3o 325i Touring and she's definately a she! Pain in the ass sometimes but goes like a bunny :oD
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-July-2005 at 01:18
Can anyone maybe confirm that the fan has definately gone as the car still heats up at standstill i have ordered a new coupling and I can stop the fan with two pages of newspaper rolled up the fan feels very light when i turn it with my hand.

I think i may go and replace the pump while im at it as well jus to be safe.

cheers.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-July-2005 at 18:41

After looking through some of the replies I would deffo say get a new water pump with a metal impeller, although yours may look new it will not last long. For the sake of £31 is is worth a bill for £100's not for changing it while you change the thermostat, although it is your choice. I had a lot of problems around christmas with over heating and I ended up changing water pump thermostat, housing and seals, just for peace of mind and I know that mine will now be trouble free for a while. But its your choice.

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