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Michael T. Haye View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Buying 5 series 1990 -1993 1.8 -2.0
    Posted: 04-August-2005 at 06:28
Hi all,

I'm new to this and am going to buy an old 518 or 520.
I'm not mechanically minded but are there any things I should watch out for when buying one (FSH??)Any help would be appreciated.
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Fey! View Drop Down
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Funs over, Scotty; beam down my clothes!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 06:31

Have a look in the 5 series forum - there are a lot of e34 owners there who are free and easy with their advice; I think there might already be a similar post there.  Make sure to ask about Nikosil - they can advise you what manufacturing period to avoid.  If he's in good humour, Killian might even move this thread over there!

Welcome to BMW land!!



Edited by Fey!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 06:38
moved to help you get a better response - eamo

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kbannon View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 06:43
Have a look at the usual sites:-
http://www.bmwe34.net/
http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/e34.html

By now many of these will not be using a main dealer for services so a FSH is a plus. Make sure that all necessary work is done (inspections, etc.).

Total BMW Mag also ran buying guides which were on their, now disappeared, website. However, I may be able to source it tonight.

I also found this:-
Quote I've not owned an e34 personally, but I have several friends who love them. One even has more than 400,000 miles on his 525i.

Like most BMW's, these cars are very durable and reliable if properly maintained. In general, things to watch out for include:

1. Any evidence of water leaks into the carpet areas (usually via the sunroof).

2. Check for worn-out bushings on the control arms. Stand outside the car and have someone put it in drive, then repeatedly press the brakes to lurch the car. Look for any signs that the front wheels are "jumping".

3. If the interior of the car smells like antifreeze, you may be looking at a leaking heater core. The parts for a new heater core are not expensive, but the labor can kill you unless you're a DIY person.

4. Check ALL of the electronic gadgets, especially the power seats, windows, locks and the sunroof. The sunroofs are particularly difficult (i.e., expensive) to repair if malfunctioning. Popping noises are bad.

5. Be observant of any smells of gasoline in the interior or around the engine. Not hard or expensive to fix, but a potential safety hazard if present (until fixed -- usually just an old fuel hose).

6. Open the oil filler cap and look for signs of heavy carbon buildup that might indicate if the engine had not received regular oil changes. Also look for any evidence of milky liquid, which would indicate water in the wrong places in the engine. If you see that, it's a deal-killer.

7. Push down on the four corners of the car to test the shocks and springs. The car should react firmly without bouncing.

8. Are there any indicator lights on the dash that signal trouble, such as the 'check engine' light being illuminated?

9. Examine the tread wear on the tires. Worn-down tires just mean that you need new tires, but uneven wear could indicate that an alignment is needed or that the suspension components are worn out.

10. Most of all, take the car to an trusted, experienced BMW mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection.

Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
Previous: 1989 E30 320i SE
1997 E39 523i
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 06:44
Originally posted by Fey! Fey! wrote:

Have a look in the 5 series forum - there are a lot of e34 owners there who are free and easy with their advice; I think there might already be a similar post there.  Make sure to ask about Nikosil - they can advise you what manufacturing period to avoid.  If he's in good humour, Killian might even move this thread over there!

Welcome to BMW land!!


1. Nikasil wouldn't have affected the either the 518i or the 520i. It was only a problem on the 6 pots between 96 and 98.
2. Im always in good humour!
Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
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1997 E39 523i
2003 E39 525i Sport Individual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 06:48

WRT Nikosil; my bad!

And I know you're always in good humour, oh gracious moderating one!!!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 07:07
Make sure whatever car you look at warms up properly but doesn't boil... they are both prone to thermostat and water pump problems. It's not a big/expensive job to replace them, but I'd be wary of something that has been boiling for a while. If you do go to look at a machine that is boiling, open the oil filler and check the back of the cap for a milky residue. If the oil is milky or if there is excessive white smoke coming out the exhaust, walk away. It's not worth the hassle or expense. There are plenty of well kept examples around.

Personally, I'd go for the 24v 520i non-Vanos ('91-'92) - if only for the sound of the 6 pot! But I'm biased!

Best of luck with the hunt!
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Michael T. Haye View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 09:09
Thanks everyone for replies.
E34??? E39???
What are the models associated with these and other E numbers
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What’s this title thing about then?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 09:25
The guide to the e-numbers is here!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 09:51

I had a drive in a family friends recently acquired e34 1990 520i auto last weekend.  With the 12v engine and auto box it obviously doesn't have too much go, but I'd forgotten just how good these things are to drive.  Not a squeek, rattle, etc.  Lovely note off thge engine.  The day before I had a Hertz rental Nissan x-trail and it didn't drive nearly as well. 

Killians list of things to watch for above is pretty much on the mark.  The creaks and so on of ball joints, track rods, etc. are all relatively easy to sort (but involve a reasonable spend relative to the value of the car) and are effectively consumables, but the overheating is the killer.  Its not too effective to fix or replace the engine if its duff because it overheated and warped the head or cracked the block.

The pre '91 cars have timing belts rather than chains and these need to be changed at 60k or so intervals.  Also, the top end can get a little bit rattly at high mileages.  A quiet engine is a very good sign.

Now: BMW 523i SE '00, 318i SE - e91 '07, 325i Coupe '93.

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e39 523i SE.
e36 325i Coupe *2, 323i SE, 316iSE.
e30 325iSE 2dr, 320i Conv, 320i 2dr, 316i.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 11:25
So in a nutshell, I should be looking at 520i post '91 with M50/TU engine that has no leaks doesn't smell like coolant or petrol has no white smoke or any milky coloured substance where the oil should be make sure the engine doesn't overheat and get it to a trusted mechanic(fsh is a bonus at this age).
What sort of price range would I have to stretch to get a good example?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 11:37
Ha, when you put it like that, we made the E34 sound so bad!!! Get a good one and look after it, it'll run forever!!

Have a look at www.buyandsell.ie there are loads of 520s between €1k & €2k! Needless to say, the less you pay, the rougher they get.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 11:43
for €50 bring a good mechanic.
Where are you based?
Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
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1997 E39 523i
2003 E39 525i Sport Individual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 11:43

You'll find them from a grand upwards, but if I was buying I'd be looking to spend 3-5k for a car with sub 100k miles, fsh and immaculate.  Its worth taking your time to wait for an example like that because the cheaper ones will eat up a lot of the difference in putting things right.

The fsh doesn't have to be main dealer (but they are out there still, even at this age/price range) but it should be with someone that knows the BMW's fairly well so that you can have confidence that it really has been properly minded.

Consider looking in the UK.  The genuine low mileage, low owners, good spec, fsh cars are still to be found there.  All but one of mine have come from the UK.  It can seem like you are spending a lot for a 10year+ old car, but buy it right and you'll get your money's worth in terms of service, satisfaction and reasonable future value, even at that age.

btw, avoid a 518 if possible, they still have all the build quality of the bigger engine cars but they will struggle a bit with the weight.



Edited by Dergside
Now: BMW 523i SE '00, 318i SE - e91 '07, 325i Coupe '93.

Prev:
e46 328i SE Touring, 330Ci, 318Ci.
e39 523i SE.
e36 325i Coupe *2, 323i SE, 316iSE.
e30 325iSE 2dr, 320i Conv, 320i 2dr, 316i.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 11:54

Why not a 525i? They have virtually the same fuel consumption but with more power. Insurance doesn't differ much either.

Get one that has been serviced regularly with all the stamps and invioces and yes get the m50 engine. A) because its the 24v and B) the cams are chain driven not belt as with the earlier M20 engine. Therefore you don't have the belt change costs every so many miles or 3 years. Don't hang out for a TU vanos though if the right pre vanod comes along. Good ones of these with full histories are getting thin on the ground.

I had 2 525's and all round they are better built than my later e39!

Regards 



Edited by whitey
2000 e39 523i with full factory sport kit.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 12:00
I agree with whitey. However, in Ireland (where the OP is from) insurance can go up a bit on a 2.5 compared to a 2.0L and also road tax jumps from €539 to €821 
Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 12:03
Yeah, i'd avoid the 518 as i'd say they had a hard time dealing with that much weight. The 6 pots are far smoother and just as economical. As the guys said, shop around, and dont rush into it. THere are still some good ones around but also plenty of mingers.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 12:04
1995 316i, 2002 520i
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 12:10

Originally posted by kbannon kbannon wrote:

I agree with whitey. However, in Ireland (where the OP is from) insurance can go up a bit on a 2.5 compared to a 2.0L and also road tax jumps from €539 to €821 

Blimey, and I thought we got ripped off in england!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Didn't realise that and now see the reasoning behind the 520 not the 525. Exactly the same engine' just down on CC's thats all. In fact the m20 2 litre was a much smoother engine than the 2.5 litre. Not sure about the M50's. Never driven a 2 litre one.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-August-2005 at 13:13

Took a 520 out for a drive before buying the 525.  The difference is like night and day between the two cars the 525 feels a lot faster.  I have also read that the 525 can do more mpg than the 520.

Andrew




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