Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Technical & Model Specific Forums > The Big CoupĆ© Forum
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 3.0 cs engine rebuild
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

Forum Locked3.0 cs engine rebuild

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Topic: 3.0 cs engine rebuild
    Posted: 27-September-2005 at 11:26

Total BMW mag suggests that a 3.0 cs needs an engine rebuild at 80k, anyone know why and which parts need overhauling? Also has anyone tried painting seat belts. I've just had my interior reupholstered and the black belts just dont go!

How do you insert a photo?

 

Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
30CSL View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 08-November-2002
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 82
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-September-2005 at 17:15
Magazines always suggest things based on what usually Jaymic or Munich legends advise them. Thing that is fragile is the timing chain, possibly rockers, other risk is overheating. Bottom ends go forever.
What colour did you have in mind for the seat belts?
Pass on inserting photo's.
Gus van Riessen.

A Batmobile is for life...
Back to Top
SFH3L View Drop Down
Really Senior Member I
Really Senior Member I
Avatar

Joined: 03-October-2004
Location: Near Buckingham
Status: Offline
Points: 447
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2005 at 03:06

I would agree re the rebuild.  with oil changes regularly done, the mechanicals should do 100,000 miles I reckon.

Antifreeze changes are important too though - every year I reckon, maximum two.  This keeps the anti-corrosion at its best, which is good for the head and other alluminium parts.

If there is a weakness, it is the rockers and shafts, as these are oiled by a silly little spray bar which in turn gets its oil from hollow bolts.  This lot can block easily, meaning the whole thing gets supplied too slowly at startup, causing premature wear.

If you are looking for a little work, and want to be cautious, I would advise:

Head off - new head gasket, inlet manifold gaskets and exhaust gaskets. New exhaust studs & nuts. ALL new coolant hoses, while you can get at them. Sort out that ridiculous auto-choke mechanism as well, as that will be ready for some attention.

Check the cam lobes, rocker shafts and rockers for wear, and clean the oil spray bar very carefully, checking the condition of the bolts that hold it down (these can work their way loose too). When you put it all back together, make sure you have the valve timing correct (cam position vs crank position) and make sure you use new head bolts.  While you're at it, I would wack on a new water pump as well, for insurance.  Also a good idea to flush the cooling passages in the engine and take the radiator off and give that a good flush too.

IMHO, that is worth another 50,000 miles or so!

Sam.
the original "not for profit" organisation.

Independent Financial Adviser In Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Back to Top
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2005 at 04:58

Thanks - this is excellent advice - You cant beat first hand experience, so here is another question. I noticed that brake dust appears on the the rear wheels and not the front ones! Having just passed an MOT without anything trouble I would like to assume that the front brakes are OK. But being a suspicious sort of person I reckon one of the servos might not be up to scratch - any views/advice? How does cream sound for the seat belts?

 



Edited by josmith
Back to Top
30CSL View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 08-November-2002
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 82
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2005 at 14:58
Cream goes well with pink seats.

Joking apart, I have seen dark blue seat belts, otherwise I think you are stuck with black.
Gus van Riessen.

A Batmobile is for life...
Back to Top
Sohlman View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar
Coupe Chairman

Joined: 19-August-2003
Location: Surrey
Status: Offline
Points: 1259
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-September-2005 at 17:19

The 3 litre engine on the E9 is the trusty old M30 which is as tough as old boots. If well maintained they don't wear out. The engine should be good for 200k. However if you are going to do work then the advice above is good advice. Personally on my six which has basically the same engine i am slowly buying performance parts for an engine upgrade, but will wait untill the engine has a failure before doing the work.

To put it into perspective you can buy a brand spanking new complete M30 engine for £2000 and thats from BMW for the 3.5.

James

Sunday 10th July Brooklands Sharkfest and Big Coupe Day. Coupe Events
Back to Top
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2005 at 07:16
I like the sound of performance parts, I sold my M535i E12 to buy the E9, not realising what a difference there is in performance. Not only in BHP but also suspension and brakes. The other thing that surprises me is the fuel comsumption, on a good day I could get 25mpg from the E12 I'm lucky to get 22 from the E9! Obviously you can drop a E12 3.5 into the E9 but I am trying to keep it fairly original however I would not say no to a few extra ponies?
Back to Top
SFH3L View Drop Down
Really Senior Member I
Really Senior Member I
Avatar

Joined: 03-October-2004
Location: Near Buckingham
Status: Offline
Points: 447
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2005 at 09:38

The carbs are always a bit of a bottleneck for power in the 3.0cs. They could probably do with balancing, which is a nightmare.

One thing you could do is junk the points and replace them with a Petronix ignitor, and a transistorised ignition system.  I did this on my CSL and it runs much cleaner, and is much more responsive than before.  I also noticed that the fuel consumption wasn't quite as bad as before.  They're never going to be economical though.  The Petronix fits inside the distributor so you can't see it, and the ignition unit fits in front of the bulkhead, so it all looks original, but makes a hell of a difference.

The CSL didn;t do too bad a job at Silverstone on Monday - though not up to Sabine Schmitz's standards!

Sam.
the original "not for profit" organisation.

Independent Financial Adviser In Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Back to Top
Sohlman View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar
Coupe Chairman

Joined: 19-August-2003
Location: Surrey
Status: Offline
Points: 1259
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2005 at 10:28
My friend has a batmobile in a metalic purple/black which is the only one of it's colour in the world. Genuine individual colour from new. Anyway he juncted the 3.0 and has gone with a 3.5 engine conversion which has been modified to give around 260bhp. He won with the car a number of sprint competitions. The car is perfect and performance wise it's very quick, but fuel consumption wise it gets around 22mpg. Not only this, but under the bonnet you can't really tell the car has had any work done as he kept the early curly manifold. 
Sunday 10th July Brooklands Sharkfest and Big Coupe Day. Coupe Events
Back to Top
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-September-2005 at 10:49
Is there a Pertronixs distributor in the UK - or did you order it from the states?
Back to Top
SFH3L View Drop Down
Really Senior Member I
Really Senior Member I
Avatar

Joined: 03-October-2004
Location: Near Buckingham
Status: Offline
Points: 447
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2005 at 03:19

I got the Petronix from a company in Hayes, Middlesex.  Cannot remember their name for the life of me, but they were on an industrial unit just off the Hayes Bypass.

I didn't want to take the car in, so just took the distributor, and they fitted it inside half an hour.

I got the MSD6 transistorised ignition from Summit Racing in the States.  They were excellent people to deal with, and the MSD uit was only about £65 when I got it.

Sam.
the original "not for profit" organisation.

Independent Financial Adviser In Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Back to Top
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2005 at 09:37

Just to let everyone know that from previous posting about E9 carbs, I have finally tracked down the problem. The little black plastic linkages were worn and although I set them to the recommended 40mm they were in fact operating the butterflies out of sync. This was the case when I aquired the car and as you can imagine its been driving me mad - it now runs smoothly and has transformed the smooth running. I now like the car! Thanks for everyones input.



Edited by josmith
Back to Top
Drew540i View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar
Available from all good newsagents!

Joined: 15-August-2005
Location: The Mansfield Massive
Status: Offline
Points: 632
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2005 at 13:50
The 3 litre M30 in the E9 needs work by 80'000
miles, more by sheer old age than anything else.
80'000 miles in a 1973 car indicates lots of short
journeys. The heads were known for cracking and
the valve gear can get very tired. My CSL needed a
top end rebuild at 90'000 miles because it was
smoking on the overrun and the valvegear and
guides were absolutely knackered. The bores were
also slightly worn although a quick buzz with a
glazebuster honing tool sharpened them up a bit.
That made it vastly better.

Back in the seventies, no car did 80'000 miles
without work. Due to nasty SAE30 oil and the lack of
five speed gearboxes to cut engine speeds,
everything wore out and something from Ford or
BMC was in trouble at 50'000.

With modern oils and tall gearing, the M30 does
indeed do 200'000 miles - but not an old one like
yours. Take the head off and send it to a company
like Corry's in London who will do a superb head
rebuild for £2-300.

P.S where did it say it needed an 80k rebuild??
Back to Top
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2005 at 14:41
If you look in the back of totalbmw mag where it lists all the beemers and gives a rough price guide it mentions about the 3.0 cs there.
Back to Top
SFH3L View Drop Down
Really Senior Member I
Really Senior Member I
Avatar

Joined: 03-October-2004
Location: Near Buckingham
Status: Offline
Points: 447
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-September-2005 at 15:50
The valve guides are the real gremlins on the old M30, and I think you are right that this is an age-hardening thing rather than mileage.  the tell tale is to let the car slow on the overrun from about 100mph to 30, left on top gear, and then boot it.  If they are worn, you'll get a cloud of blue-white smoke - very spectacular.  However, they still don't use that much oil when in this condition.
Sam.
the original "not for profit" organisation.

Independent Financial Adviser In Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Back to Top
howie View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 08-November-2003
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 15
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-October-2005 at 17:47

There is some good advice here and from people who know their CSL's. Yes the bottom end is just about bullet proof and it was the top that always suffered. All the things Sam suggested are worthwhile. But if you're not sure of the history of your car or indeed the mileage, then sometimes fixing some things will exaggerate the wear in other places. After all these are 35 year old cars that have probably seen their fair share of thrashing in their time!

Having gone through this recently, I can't recommend enough, that once you've started down the re build path then it's worth spending the extra and doing it properly.

My engine is a 3.3 unit from a 633Ci, fitted sometime in the late 70's. It was fettled with a bit bit of lightening and balancing. We decided to re build the existing engine rather than fit a new 3.5 (which as suggested before can be bought for @£2k) my technician who re built the engine is a perfectionist and much time was spent labouring over polishing ports and making sure the manifold outlets matched the head for a good flow.etc etc. I can supply his number as I know he would be happy to give advice and suggest a suitable route for you to take.

If someone can answer your earlier question on how to attach a picture, I will post one of the engine. Having seen what it can do against the other CSL's at Silverstone, it was definately worth the money!! 204bhp at the wheels!!

Back to Top
josmith View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: woking
Status: Offline
Points: 37
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-October-2005 at 04:45
To insert a picture see the FAQs, the easiest way is to copy and paste from an existing web page. Unfortunately you cant just insert a jpg or gif!
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down



This page was generated in 0.168 seconds.