Which E36 brake discs?

I can't wait until my xmas bonus to start on my mods because I've got the bug now
First affordable upgrade is front discs.
General consensus is that fitting late 3.2 evo discs will reduce my chronic fade.
I'd love to fit a £2.5k AP kit but as 90% of my driving is in the city it doesn't seem worth it, so I'm keeping it chep to save money for the suspension set up.
Question is, are these the best replacement discs or would I benefit more by using brembo (or similar) replacements?
I'm relatively happy with stopping power in general, it's just the fade I'm trying to get rid of.
I'm also fitting Pagid "black" pads & Goodridge hoses at the same time.

Paul

I've heard that too & sure I've seen some kits out there.
Good call Uwe, I'll look into it

As an aside, just found this.
I thought DOT5 was the way forward, but, it appears not.

MYTH # 5 - BECAUSE THEY ARE NON-HYGROSCOPIC SILICON BASED BRAKE FLUIDS ARE SUITABLE FOR USE IN HIGH PERFORMANCE CARS
DOT 3 AND DOT 4 brake fluids are ether based and are hygroscopic in nature - i.e. they absorb water vapor. As the braking system in not quite airtight, a significant amount of water can be absorbed from the atmosphere in the course of a year. A 3% water content in brake fluid drops the boiling point as much as 170 degrees F. Brake fluid should be completely replaced annually.
DOT 5 fluids are silicon based and are non-hygroscopic, which is good. They are also subject to frothing from high frequency vibration, which gives a soft pedal. Soft brake pedals may be OK in non-high performance cars (in fact, most drivers accept mushy brake pedals as normal) but they are not acceptable in any situation where the driver intends to modulate braking at high force values.

Simple really, the best discs are the standard EVO items but your fade is the fault of whatever pads you're running. I've tried standard and EBC red but now I've got Pagid yellow and they completely wipe the floor with the others. Full race pad, but they still work from cold, last a lifetime (ring 24 hours without pad change), don't fade, not much dust, oh, and they cost a packet...

Make sure you do something with the rear pads as well, they won't be able to keep up with a decent front set up (I have the cracked pads in my garage to prove it).

With the discs you just need to look at the facts. Cross-drilled? All about looking nice and shiny and will just crack with hard use. Don't see many modern race cars with cross drilled. Grooved? Definitely worth it on the track to clean the pad. Lots of race cars use these. Look nice and shiny too but will just shorten pad life for road use and make lots of noise. Floating? Always a good bet, prevents warping helps cooling. Looks trick in a 'if you know it's there' kind of way.

So if you want to impress your mates then any of the drilled/grooved aftermarket stuff is great. If you want the car to simply slow down as quickly as possible then EVO is the way to go.

Disc options from German, French & Swedish (https://secure.gsfcarparts.com/shop)
B62026 BRAKE DISC-VENTED LEFT E36 M3 92>98 LH £38.25
B62027 BRAKE DISC-VENTED RIGHT E36 M3 92>98 RH £38.25
or
B62028 BRAKE DISC FRONT LH E36 M3 3.2 3.2i 236kW S50 95>00 £65.00
B62028A BRAKE DISC FRONT RH E36 M3 3.2 3.2i 236kW S50 95>00 £65.00
No pic's on their website to spot the differences

M3PSM wrote: Cheers Robbie, they'll do the trick but at $500 I'll get the plates (which they sell seperately) & make the rest I reckon. B&Q here I come

I was looking into that backing plate thing for the E30 and decided to modify the stock plates. All you need is a piece of pipe to attach the flexible hose to.
Imagine the process of installing the turner plates.
You will have to CUT the BMW plates to get them off or remove the hub --> new bearings!
If you cut the backing plate to get it off, why not in a way that you can re-fit it?
I have used a dremel with a samll cutting disk and just removed the back around the hub.

cut lines:


cutting:


section removed:


tidy the edges a little and you can re install the plate.


With the plate off you can cut a hole into it and attach a piece of pipe top hoseclamp the flexi pipe.
Maybe not as elegant as carbon baking plates, BUT 500 notes cheaper!
Another things which makes me thinking with the shorter turner plate is the fact that the steering arm ball joint isn't covered by the backing plate anymore and fully exposed to the heat of the brake disk. Might not be a real issue for a weekend car, but I am not sure of the long term effect of cooking the grease out of the ball joint. (at least this is the situ at the E30, don't know about the E36)

Sorry for this rather long post, but I just wanted to point the option out.

Edited by UweM3

Pooky: Any tips on where to buy Pagids at a decent price?

Cheers mate!

I have the following set up on my evo vert.

Black Diamond predator pads front and rear.

Goodrich braided hoses.

Ap Dot 5.1 fluid.

EBC Turbo groove/dotted (Not drilled) front discs.

Standard rear discs.

Braking is very good with little fade, but they do need to warm up to work well.

Not the best looking discs in the world i know but they are very good, and dont create that much dust cos im using hard pads.