E32 M30 730 Head Gasket

Go to my website below. There is a link to Evansweb. Jon Evans did the headgasket job and made a nice instruction. Hope that helps.

On my page there is also a link to the Haynes Repair Manual.

Sounds like a load of cr*p to me. If oil and water
were really mixing in the cooling system* than you'd
need to replace all the hoses as the oil and water
mayonnaise destroys rubber hoses very quickly.
The 730i doesn't have an oil cooler for the engine oil.
It has, as you know, an automatic gearbox oil cooler
built into the side of the radiator. If that develops a
cross leak you'll have water in the gearbox and ATF
in the coolant. Not Good. Check the colour of the
gearbox oil - any mayonaisse (or a low fluid level)
and you might have found the problem. E38 and E39
cars were more prone to this for some reason.
Just put it back together again and see how you get
on. It's not a bad idea to run some engine degreaser
though the cooling system to clean all the crap out,
about 2 or 3 litres should do it before flushing it out
again with a hose.

I think your mate is referring to the oil cooler ring, a
long steel pipe that goes rather like a kettle element
in between the grille and the radiator. This is a
cooler for the power steering fluid!

*I mean really badly mixing as opposed to a trace of
oil in the header tank. Send me a P.M if you're really
stuck.

Right......car has been in the garage for since my original post.....never found the time complete the job....I removed the head and then left it headless in the garage! I still haven't got around to refitting it....the head is skimmed, I have the headbolts, gasket set, Bentley's Manual...I'm ready to go.....shall be attempting completion (finally) next week, then got to get her through an MOT! After I have completed the job should I run it on cheap coolant/water mix to remove any contamination in the coolant reservoir and anywhere else as the oil mixed with the coolant....the hoses have obviously been contaminated as well. Is there any websites showing the job or advice on the job ahead? When I removed the cylinder head I removed and dismantled the electrical wiring strip/box that goes to the fuel rail.....this looks like its going to be a nightmare to put back and get to actually work!

I'd have the lpg kit for my 635?

My cousin Nick is a proper technician and has a lot of LPG experience. He's near York though, I think he has a trailer. He won't be the cheapest, but you'll get a proper job and not be 'tucked up' by some muppet outfit.

T: 07889 546420
smallworldltd@aol.com

He sorted out someone's 750 that had others scratching their heads. He builds and races (or used to) rally cars. Restores Lotus's down to the last bolt for wealthy clients. Has done LPG conversions and his work is tidy, like OE, not a buggers muddle that you sometimes see. He did have some association with a BMW dealership, but is not a BMW specialist per se. The M30 is pretty straightforward compared to a double bank 750!

I think he has a trade pal that is a BM specialist.

It sounds like your car was not properly maintained by the previous owner/s. You might just as well had the same issues with a Lexus, but I am guessing that parts would be one heck of a lot more expensive.

Good luck!

The LPG install doesn't come into it - it can be
carefully removed from the inlet manifold and refitted
by any competent mechanic.

Well, if you can get the car up to M1 J28 area I can
have a look and if it warrants it, source and fit a
decent cylinder head. I haven't done an M30 for a
good couple of years but can still remember how it
all goes together - not as easily as an M20!
I'd need it for a couple of weeks tho and there can be
absolutely no guarantees that it will be 100% perfect
- that's the problem with old engines, and especially
old engines that have been apart before. Having said
that, it the block is okay (no cracks around the bolt
holes) and the replacement head has no obvious
issues it should all be okay.

It sounds to me like the valve-poston thing has
already occurred - i.e piston at TDC and the head
going on with a valve down. This puts pressure on
the valve and if it doesn't break a rocker first it might
just split the head where the rocker shaft sits. I can't
see why a head would otherwise crack when being
torqued down.