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Andrew Rolland View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: E39 Coolant leak
    Posted: 24-November-2005 at 08:41

I think I must have a coolant leak somewhere in my M52 lump in the E39.

Over the last two weekends I have had to top up my expansion tank to the Kalt/Cold level.  Not much about 50 mm level difference at the most.  So my thoughts are that there must be a leak somewhere.

While out driving on Saturday, outside temp was 2.5 deg, I had driven 6 miles, 4 miles at 70 mph.  Stopped the engine and the temp gauge was at its usual position, vertical, parked the car for 10 mins then got back in to drive another 3 miles at 70 mph.  On route I noticed the temperature gauge was now at about the 11 o'clock position i.e. the engine was colder then when I parked it.  I was surprised at this as even though the outside temp was cold, it had warmed up and normally the gauge should be at the 12 o'clock position.

Could this strange temp gauge behaviour be outlining a potential problem?

There are no leaks around any of the hose connections, nor around the stat housing nor the waterpump housing.  Heater performance is fine although I have thought it takes a while to heat up but I am putting that down to the fact that it is colder outside now.

The temp gauge always rises steadily to the vertical 12 o'clock position and stays there and has never ever gone past the vertical position.  I did once hear the thermo viscous fan kick in last month when I didn't think it should have. Is this linked to a coolant leak problem?

Could coolant be being expelled out under the expansion tank cap. Oh and before anyone asks there is no mayonnaise under the oil filler cap so I fairly sure it is not an internal leak.

I have discovered to my dismay that my car does not have a low coolant level switch in the bottom of my expansion tank. Why doesn't it have one, most cars do.  There is a space for the warning light behind the dash but there is definitely no sensor. 

The car has not had a coolant change in 7 years should it is long over due one.  Should I also take the opportunity to replace the thermostat and waterpump? 

Can anyone out there help me?

Andrew

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318is-joe View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-November-2005 at 12:10
If the coolants not been changed in 7 years, I'd flush it out andrew and replace with new coolant, not water and anti-freeze but new coolant.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-November-2005 at 12:40

I've got leak that’s been getting steadily worse over the last couple of weeks. It has turned out to be the radiator - small pinhole that got worst to the point now I can drive 10miles and need to top up. I know that radiators going are fairly obvious as mine now steams like it has 10 kettles under the bonnet (don't worry its going in tomorrow to get a new one). Yours may not be an obvious leek at the moment i.e. with checking the usual suspects it might be worth looking at the radiator if you can get at it - is there any condesation hanging about? Apologies if I’ve got the technical jist of your post wrong - it happens frequently. Good luck anyway.

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-November-2005 at 12:41
if you bring the car to a decent mechanic, they should be able to pressure test the system for leaks.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-November-2005 at 15:31
Don't do what I did and ignore it...I had small leak where I was topping it up every few weeks...what happened...middle of france during my hols and that small leak turned out to be a big leak and an even bigger leak to my wallet.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2005 at 02:55

Originally posted by 318is-joe 318is-joe wrote:

I'd flush it out andrew and replace with new coolant, not water and anti-freeze but new coolant.

Thanks 318is-joe

What is the difference between water and antifreeze mixture and coolant?

I thought that water and antifreeze mixture was coolant?!??!

Do you mean put 100% antifreeze?  I have been topping it up with just antifreeze.

Andrew

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2005 at 03:10

Thanks for the tips guys. 

Update

This morning on the way to work.  Driven 12 miles on motorway at 60-70-80mph and all the time I'm thinking the car isn't that warm inside. Passenger heater at 32 and mine at 28 with fan at half speed.

Temp gauge standing to attention at the 12 o'clock position as usual.  Which indicates to me that there isn't an over cooling problem. 

Queued on slip road and temp gauge never moved.  Heater performance on above settings was poor.  It was warm but not hot.  Turned my side up to 32 and still not hot after a couple of minutes.

To me this means either over cooling but this isn't shown up on the temp gauge and or lack of coolant.  If there isn't enough coolant this to me would explain the poor heater performance.

At the weekend I'll check it over properly i.e. in daylight and with the engine running. 

Failing that I had decided to book it in for a compression test on the cooling system at the local garage as Killian has suggested.

The more I think about it I may have a pin prick hole in the rad as I wiped off what looked like dried coolant from the air filter box that may have sprayed out from a tiny orifice and then dried in a spray mark.  Hmmm.  Or was the direction of the dried spray indicating it had come from the top rad hose that is on the air box side.

Thanks once again guys

Andrew



Edited by Andrew Rolland
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2005 at 03:49
Originally posted by Andrew Rolland Andrew Rolland wrote:

Originally posted by 318is-joe 318is-joe wrote:

I'd flush it out andrew and replace with new coolant, not water and anti-freeze but new coolant.

Thanks 318is-joe

What is the difference between water and antifreeze mixture and coolant?

I thought that water and antifreeze mixture was coolant?!??!

Do you mean put 100% antifreeze?  I have been topping it up with just antifreeze.

Andrew

OEm Coolant, like the BMW stuff is designed to have better heat dissipation (sp) properties for the summer, a higher boiling point than water, and does not tend to evaporate as readily as H2O. Conversely it has good anti-freeze properties also.

Whatever you do, don't put 100% anti-freeze in, Pure Anti-freeze actively will seek out the weakest point of the coolant system, and cause leaks that may not even exist at present.

If your only loosing small amounts as your first post suggests, then you are possibly boiling off small quantities, proper coolant would not evaporate. In any case seven year old stuff, even if it was good coolant is well passed it's best.

From memory I think coolant flush and replacement is part of inspection II



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2005 at 05:01
With leaks, it's difficult to say exactly where their coming from once the fan picks it up and whirls it around. I know that the air box being sprayed is a good way to pick up when a water pump is leaking but the marks  tend to be in line with the pump hub itself.

At the moment I cant think of how losing coolant could affect the cabin heater unless it was developing an air lock in that part of the system.

Sorry - not much help I know....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2005 at 05:08
When we had the first cold snap of the winter a few weeks ago my coolant thermometer dropped to 11.0 clock. I checked the coolant level and found it to be OK. After this cold snap it went back to its usual 12.0 clock position. With this current cold snap it now remains at the 12.0 clock position so I presume all is well.
what has always worried me is that the handbook states "the colant level is correct when the the upper end of the float rod is level with the top of the filler pipe". Yet when I look down into the radiator with a torch the water level is way down below the top of the radiator. Perhaps the previous owner was aware of this because the float rod is about 35mm above where it should be.
Another interesting point is that the Service Book states "renew coolant every 3 years" yet the Owner's Handbook states "renew the coolant every 4 years".
It recommends topping up with 50:50 water and long life antifreeze & corrosion inhibitor.
One tip I found when refilling my E32 was to keep a record of the amount of coolant being drained and make sure this same amount goes back in. I had to re-drain my coolant and then keep squeezing the coolant hoses whilst refilling to ensure it all went in.

Dave E
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