FRONT WHEEL SHAKE

Vaun,

I can't understand why you get this under accleration but wheel shake under braking can sometimes be the result of warped discs, something the M535 is a little prone too. 

On another note, it could be a result of worn front end steering components or lower trailing arm bushes.  Do you get any play when you jack the front of the car up and shake the front wheels? 

Hope this is of some help,

 

 

 

 

I had exactly the same prob with by 520i. after eight (YES 8!) track rod ends I decided to lift the front end of the car & have a play with the steering to see if anything was suspect. When I turned the passenger wheel by hand by moving it left & right I spotted something quite worrying. The joint on the end of the centre tie bar had quite a bit of play on it. I tried the same on the drivers side & lo & behold, exactly the same thing. After replacing the centre tie bar (the bar that links the steering box with the track rod end assemblies) I have so far had six months of trouble free motoring. That may b your prob & also your answer.

Vaun

My M535i is a 1986 D reg sports switchable auto model. It is Alpine White with black leather sports interior, glass electric sliding sunnroof, ABS, cruise, Aircon (needs attention), computer, 10 disc CD player, 15 inch cross spoke alloys, electric mirrors and windows, central locking and headlamp wash wipe.  It has a full service history from new and a 'starship mileage' but we rebuilt the engine about 50,000 miles ago.

Nigel

PS I'm going to be away until 4 January so I won't be able to pick up any replies until then.

 

Hi Tazman. Nope I haven't sorted it yet, but I do intend to take the collective advice of the guys above. I plan on renewing all the ball joints on the steering, which, looking at the Haynes manual appears to number SIX (Gulp!!). That's including the two on each end of the Tie Bar which has to be completely renewed. If that don't cure the vibration I'll eat my hat. I'll post up the results on this forum as soon as I get off me lazy arse and get the job done. Later!

Vaun. There is essentially three parts (simple version) to the steering assembly. The centre tie bar and also 2 track rod assemblies (each side consisting of a tie bar with a track rod end at each end). Buy the complete assemblies cos its cheaper and you know that you are buying the right threaded joints.

Centre tie bar (2 joints) BM no 32 21 1 129 017

Tie rod assembles (tie bar + 2 track rod ends) BM no 32 21 1 135 666 (2 needed).

Its easy when u got a BM parts CD

Oh yeah, also check your drop arms (the arms that "swing" the centre tie bar). They may be worn also, not likely but worth checking whilst you are under there. And get yourself a decent sized ball joint splitter. My centre tie bar was a right "get" to get off took nearly half an hour. Good luck!!!

cheers guy's, i'll take all the info into account! if you were near by i'd by you guy's a drink or few. my next toast will be to you boys, cheers.  

Thanks again Goldsoul for your invaluable advice – god, isn't this Forum just the nuts?!! I'm not one for false economy so your advice will be very much heeded. I'd much rather put quality parts on my car than be forever changing them. Quinton Hazell is quite a popular after market manufacturer of parts isn't it, so I guess if I just go to a decent motor factors and insist on them I should get what I need?!

Yeah, Quinton Hazell and Delphi are two of the biggest aftermarket manufacturers in the business (even though they do supply to the vehicle manufacturers themselves as well). Any decent part store will be able to sort you out. But also check new BMW prices. sometimes they are not that bad. I recently got a new diff drainplug seal for the paltry sum of 12p!

Tazman, i'm always willing to help out a fellow e28'er if I have the knowledge. I hope you get your car sorted as well

Well guys, I eventually got round to replacing all me ball joints and centre tie bar (All QH gear) but to my dismay it ain't cured me wheel shake!!

Nigel (Marston) earlier in this forum said that he found the cause was the brakes sticking on on his car which I have symptoms of so I guess I'll have to get the axle stands out again this weekend!!

Tazman, how you getting on with your wheel shake?!

Vaun

Just checked the 'Bentley' manual for info.

Quote:  On cars with ABS, pump the brake pedal a minimum of 12 times before opening the bleeder valve.  This will help to expel air trapped in the hydraulic unit.

Hope this helps.