window dont open correctly

After replacing the motor you need to reset  it, get into the car and close the door, open the window and keep the switch pressed down for 10 seconds, then raise the window and keep the switch pressed for 10 seconds.

I do understand your frustration.

I spent £220 on two brand new motors from my dealer, and still had a problem with the drivers window on a 1998 coupe. On the coupe the window drops by an half an inch as you pull the door handle. When you close the door, the window moves up by the same amount. I found after fitting the motors, within a month, the teeth on the drivers door mechanism where it engages with the modul drive wheel were worn through just at the top of the arc. I asked the Dealer why ? But they were just as informative as someone who puts HP sauce on the shelf at Tesco. Am I p*ss*d off, yes very. I do not buy spurious parts, yet the Dealer appears to have little or no experience worth having.

Anybody who knows - please let me know - I'd be most grateful.

1998 - E36 323i Lux coupe

 OK - 2 hours later - I've got an Answer, but not tried and tested yet.

Don't always knock the Dealer, there will be someone there who knows.......but you have to find that guy. Experienced Parts people know more than you think.

The mechanism you bought at the breakers yard......did you check the regulator at the top of the arc. This can be viewed when the window is fully down, and when you have removed the leather or fabric  door card, and have removed the padded sound insulation backing. Look there, that is exactly were the wear will be found, every time you open the door, the motor lift's/lowers the window by 2 or 3 notches. if the teeth are worn there.....chuck it.

Now when fitting the new motors. You have to make sure that the bushes/spacers are in position between the frame and the new motor. This positions the motor further away from the mounting. These drop off when you drill out the rivets, and you haven't noticed that they have fallen off the back. It is all quite a pain because you have to drill out the rivets quite accurately to mount the new motors.

When that is done, the modul (cog on the motor) engages squarely on the regulator. There is a design fault IMHO in that the slight curve on the roof / pillar frame (coupe only) forces the modul inside the regulator arc only when the window glass is in the groove at the top (fully closed) position.

Maybe that is why so many folk here have this problem. I will let you know the result when I have re-fitted the motors (with those secret spacers).

It is a dogs life - when you can't get proper fitting instructions. Duh ! 

1998, 323i lux coupe, cosmo

You may wish to try this Web site. They have good info on coupe window problems. Generally, far superior advice than the average workshop. I wish I hadn't wasted so much time at my local.............

Here is the URL

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&t hreadid=190119

Let me know if this helps. I don't understand your current problem, if a new motor is fitted. The mechanism must be fouling on something ?

Have you read this diagnosis of the problem ? It is very good and will cost you nothing but time and effort if you are lucky. The URL is below.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=238468

The dislocation of the magnetic ring control sensor on these window regulator motors is a situation that very few Dealers will know. My local BM Workshop and Parts hadn't got a clue. But then, that's how the whole repair industry is now !

Let me know.

Sorry Mr 325,

The problem occurs even when the door is wide open ? and the door card is off ?

You've tried a brand new motor, yes ? not an ex scrap yard jobby !

There is absolutely no up-n-down fouling ?

The teeth in your arc regulator are all good ?

The Motors on existing doors spin freely ? when not under load ? the commutators / brushes look ok when viewed from the side

There is no relay anyway ?

Your allarm does not have a dog setting.... programmed for a slight open window ?

Sorry your problem has me beat ?  sorry Mr. 325 coupe.

Hey, My driver's door window is still not quite right ! But the passenger one is fine ?????? same job, same refitting process.

I have to spend more time on it. I'm busy so until I have time to strip it all down again, I can't help you very much.

I can advise you, that new motors are more aggressive in the final action of raising the window that last one 1/2 inch. I prefered the older motors which were softer and more subtle in operation. I need to compare many aspects of the job in the refitting process. Sorry, but until I have cracked the problem - I can't advise further.

I do understand your dissapointment, and confirm that this window matter is the first job that I have encounterred in the 3 & 1/2 years that I have owned her, that this sort of issue, even after fitting brand new BMW parts, that this has occured. You are not alone on this.

Try phoning a BMW West Country Dealer for more free info. Sadly many Thames Valley Dealers have to consider £'ssssss first. Business rates around here for a medium sized dealership are about £140k a year. Profit wise, some Dealers have to make money just to stand still ! 

If you get "real experienced advice", please share it here.

1998 323i Lux coupe, cosmo.