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alarustic
Groupie
Joined: 23-February-2004
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 70
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Topic: E36 coolant leak - common failures? Posted: 21-March-2006 at 09:13 |
I'm losing coolant for my car, which is a '96 328i with dual CC and air-con.
The leak looks to be from either the pipe at the bottom of the expansion tank (the 1/2" one) or from what i think is the coolant level sensor which is immediately underneath that pipe.
Are either of these normally problematic? What's the best way to find the leak other than stripping it right down and taking the radiator out?
Any advice/tips appreciated.
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Pete330
Really Senior Member II
Joined: 26-November-2003
Location: Aberdeen
Status: Offline
Points: 8969
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Posted: 21-March-2006 at 09:17 |
If the water level is high then water will come out a hose down side of filler
If its leaking could be a pipe or build of of pressure (Water pump,Head Gasket)
There is endless things it could be
I say get it checked by dealer
Mine turned out to be Radiator when i had a leak in my 323
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Previous:
E36 318is coupe, E36 323i coupe, E30 316 saloon, E30 318 saloon, E46 330ci Sport Conv E92 325d M Sport(3.0),With Loads of gadgets
Current: 116i Sport F20
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Webdunk
Moderator Group
M3 GT Register
Joined: 16-October-2002
Location: Central Scotland
Status: Offline
Points: 5245
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Posted: 21-March-2006 at 09:54 |
Moving to 3 Series Technical...
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alarustic
Groupie
Joined: 23-February-2004
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 70
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Posted: 21-March-2006 at 15:38 |
Sorry I must've posted this in the Scottish Forum by mistake!
Pete330 wrote:
If its leaking could be a pipe or build of of pressure (Water pump,Head Gasket)
There is endless things it could be |
How is the list endless when I know where the leak is located?
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bmwcrazy
Really Senior Member II
1995 M5,1995 318ISE,1997 325
Joined: 24-October-2005
Location: (glasgow the wee apple) big dazz
Status: Offline
Points: 661
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Posted: 21-March-2006 at 16:32 |
if u put too much water in the pressure becomes so much any weak spots give way put some dye in see were it runs out silly u may say but it will show u more clearly how many leaks u have might not be the right way,but the cheapest/ dont use rad weld as its usless
good luck dazz
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Terrier
Groupie
Joined: 25-March-2004
Location: Germany
Status: Offline
Points: 94
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Posted: 22-March-2006 at 17:36 |
I gotta say Rad-weld does work, I had a leak on the bottom of the radiator and it did a bonza job sealing it. Maybe I'm just a lucky one!
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E36 Compact
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BeemaBoy
Really Senior Member II
Starting a Collection
Joined: 25-October-2004
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 927
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Posted: 23-March-2006 at 03:36 |
In South Africa we don't have radweld, but we do have something called Wynn's Rad Stop Leak. I had a leak somewhere in my cooling system that was causing the entire coolant resevoir to be emptied every 2 days - pretty big leak I thought, but could I find it??? Finally decided to put a bottle of this Wynn's stuff in and she has not lost a drop now for about 2 months. Wherever the leak was, it is now blocked. Did not notice and change in running temp or engine noise or anything. I must say that as long as your coolant is not pouring out, radiator additives to stop leaks seem to work?
BeemaBoy
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87 E30 320I
95 E34 525I Auto, Executive Package, Arctic Silver
98 E38 740I Steptronic, Silver
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SF_Biggy
Newbie
Joined: 10-February-2006
Location: South west
Status: Offline
Points: 11
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Posted: 23-March-2006 at 16:37 |
from my ex with radweld it may fix a very small problem in the rad as it solidifies with the heat but if it is a big leak it wont last after all radweld is only a temp measure or so they say.
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madman
Senior Member II
Joined: 26-July-2005
Location: WEST SUSSEX
Status: Offline
Points: 224
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Posted: 24-March-2006 at 04:46 |
I dont understand,? Why not get it pressure tested it aint going to cost much and it takes all the guess work away
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alarustic
Groupie
Joined: 23-February-2004
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 70
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Posted: 24-March-2006 at 06:35 |
Tell me more about pressure testing!
Is that where they fix a 'pump' onto the top of the expansion tank and then 'pump it'? This thens shoes exactly where the leak is located?
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dutch
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 17-December-2005
Location: lakeside Essex
Status: Offline
Points: 438
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Posted: 25-March-2006 at 15:28 |
it does exactly that. it simulates the pressure in the system so leaks can be found. before you use any of these rad additives bare in mind they will block any small water ways creating more problems later on.
hth
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e39,1200 bandit
cooper S, Z3 topazbleu
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Chas C
Really Senior Member II
Nothing new under the sun
Joined: 15-December-2004
Location: Aberdeenshire
Status: Offline
Points: 1620
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Posted: 27-March-2006 at 08:47 |
I'll bet it's the rad at the base of the expansion tank. Same thing happened to mine and because of it's position I assumed the expansion tank seal had failed. The E36 radiators are known to be poor quality so save yourself the bother and get another one. The dealer got me a new one with expansion tank and cap for £160 but ECP/GSF do them cheaper.
They don't last forever
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red devil
Groupie
Joined: 22-December-2003
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 53
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Posted: 30-March-2006 at 14:59 |
Chas C wrote:
I'll bet it's the rad at the base of the expansion tank. Same thing happened to mine and because of it's position I assumed the expansion tank seal had failed. The E36 radiators are known to be poor quality so save yourself the bother and get another one. The dealer got me a new one with expansion tank and cap for £160 but ECP/GSF do them cheaper.
They don't last forever
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Today I replaced the rad. on my '98 e36 318i. Delivered to my door by a rad. specialist, it cost £115 and is a "Nissens" which is, I believe, what GSF/Euro supply, only cheaper (genuine part is £217 from local dealer).
The rad. specialist tells me the Nissens is better quality than the original, but he would say that, wouldn't he?
Can anyone advise on the best way to bleed the system? I have an air-lock as the heater does not get warm since I replaced the rad.
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russ320
Groupie
Joined: 28-December-2004
Status: Offline
Points: 75
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Posted: 31-March-2006 at 05:43 |
hi i belive you run the engine to operating temp with the heater on full with fan running then slowly undo bleed screw watching for bubbles. you may need the revs up a little ie not on tick over.when no more bubbles do it back up again. it is a pain getting rid of air locks they are renowned for it. only thing bmw got wrong with design.
I am sure others will advise.
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dutch
Really Senior Member I
Joined: 17-December-2005
Location: lakeside Essex
Status: Offline
Points: 438
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Posted: 01-April-2006 at 06:21 |
to bleed your system iirc turn the temp up to max and fan speed to just above zero this runs the aux water pump for the CC undo both bleed screws and top up coolant slowly untill coolant can be seen from the bleed screws (can be a pain but be pateint and make sure its air free)good luck with it HTH
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e39,1200 bandit
cooper S, Z3 topazbleu
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alarustic
Groupie
Joined: 23-February-2004
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 70
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Posted: 03-April-2006 at 18:23 |
red devil wrote:
Delivered to my door by a rad. specialist, it cost £115 and is a "Nissens" which is... |
Was this price for a brand new rad.?
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red devil
Groupie
Joined: 22-December-2003
Location: United Kingdom
Status: Offline
Points: 53
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Posted: 04-April-2006 at 17:10 |
alarustic wrote:
red devil wrote:
Delivered to my door by a rad. specialist, it cost £115 and is a "Nissens" which is... |
Was this price for a brand new rad.?
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Yes, brand new, not recon. or exchange. As I said, it is a "Nissens", same as supplied (I believe) by Euro and GSF, but cheaper. Based in Milton Keynes and delivered to me, free of charge, in Oxford. I'm sure they do mail order if you are further afield. They can also fit, if you are not that way inclined, but it is simple to replace.
Sorry for the delay, they are called Dial-a-Rad, by the way.
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