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mjf297 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: New wheels!
    Posted: 02-June-2006 at 08:33

My search for some new wheels has finally proved fruitful, I decided it was definately BBS style 5's for me, and managed to secure some on ebay yesterday...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=464 3970202&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fsearch% 2Fsearch.dll%3FMfcISAPICommand%3DGetResult%26ht%3D1%26shortc ut%3D0%26from%3DR41%26query%3D4643970202%26category0%3D%26Su bmit%3DSearch%26fvi%3D1

They are a bit scuffed etc but I don't mind as I use the six every day and don't want to have to worry about kerbing them! (my reverse parking isn't what it should be !!)

They are off an e34 M5 i think, i was wondering whether the centre bore of 72.6mm would require hubcentric rings..

Also, the tyres are 235/45 R17 (Fuldas), is anyone running these at the moment or experienced any problems?

Cheers


1988 E24 635CSi HIGHLINE ZINNOBER RED - Whitesands Bay, Cornwall
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-June-2006 at 14:31
Rear tyres should be 255/40 if they're 9" width.

Most people run 235/45 on 8" wheels. I've put 235/40's on as 235/45 is slightly taller than 255/40. We're only talking a gnat's whisker mind.

Fulda's are good tyres. I have Goodyear F1's which I find are good in the wet - not a problem in the south east

AndyS
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2006 at 16:10

I thought the rears should be 255/40 too, however I have been told by someone else the car will corner better with 235's as the tyre is "stretched" over the rim allowing less sidewall flex..  am confused! Anyway one of the rear's has good tread (the other needs replacing as has been run flat and wrecked), so I might get a part-worn 235/45 and see how it works out first.

Had a pretty appalling day with the six yesterday. After sitting in the searing heat (aircon needs re-gassing!!) for ages in traffic, only to get a ridiculous quote at a tyre centre, some horrible little old lady decided to run into the back of the six  . As if that wasn't bad enough she decided to drive off and I had to chase her for 15 minutes around north london before getting her to pull over!! Fortunately the sounds of breaking glass and crumpling metal all came from her flimsy Nissan micra which was probably a write off  (there is some justice then). The six? A scuff on the rear bumper which will probably polish out with a bit of elbow grease . That is one solid motor car.

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2006 at 16:19

You won't need rings as the centre bores are the same between the E34 and the E24. It's the E39 wheels that need the rings fitted onto the the above cars - that is what I have

Paul



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2006 at 17:31

Originally posted by mjf297 mjf297 wrote:

....some horrible little old lady decided to run into the back of the six  . ....Fortunately the sounds of breaking glass and crumpling metal all came from her flimsy Nissan micra which was probably a write off ...

I once launched my Six from standstill right into the back of a Ford Fiesta. The Fiesta was written off, so a Micra's got no chance!

 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2006 at 20:59

The back of the 6 might be strong, but I bet the front does'nt fare well in an accident! Not speaking from personal experience, but that nose cone looks like it would bugger the bonnet and wings all up and push everything out of alighment, not to mention about £5K.

The front of a Micra is one giant crumple zone thankfully - which is lucky as it helps to protect the occupants who tend to be about 110 years old on average:

As you can see this is what happens at an impact of 9 MPH, The mountain bike fares a lot better.



Edited by phb10186

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2006 at 22:19
Originally posted by phb10186 phb10186 wrote:

.....the occupants who tend to be about 110 years old on average:

A strong argument for referring them to these people


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-June-2006 at 12:16
I'm looking to upgrade to a nice set of 18's on the six. I have those wierd trx sizes. are these worth anything to sell on as? i have like six vgc original wheels with varying michelin trx tyres, very wide., very similar to the original posters pic. was thinking if they are worth something i could "trade them in" via ebay to get a nice set of 18's. what width can these take on the back, i saw a lovely set of 235's front, and 265's back.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-June-2006 at 16:43
Originally posted by Horsetan Horsetan wrote:

A strong argument for referring them to these people

I have the old ladies address, maybe I'll send her a leaflet...


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-June-2006 at 16:46

Originally posted by Check it out! Check it out! wrote:

I'm looking to upgrade to a nice set of 18's on the six. I have those wierd trx sizes. are these worth anything to sell on as? i have like six vgc original wheels with varying michelin trx tyres, very wide., very similar to the original posters pic. was thinking if they are worth something i could "trade them in" via ebay to get a nice set of 18's. what width can these take on the back, i saw a lovely set of 235's front, and 265's back.

I think some folks here seem to get away with 265s on the back, but 255s seem to be the generally accepted max width


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2006 at 14:50
Originally posted by Check it out! Check it out! wrote:

I have those wierd trx sizes. are these worth anything to sell on as?


Not really unless you find someone who's a stickler for originality. Mine are hiding in the corner of the garage for when I need to have my Style 32's refurbed.

It's a matter of personal taste but I think 18"s make the Six look a little over-wheeled. Originals were a rather weedy 14" & the last of the line wore TRX's equivalent to 16.5" (hence the hard time the front bushings have).

It's generally accepted that 15"s give the best ride, 17"s look the best & 16" are the best compromise between the two for ride & handling. Having said that I find my Six rides & handles a lot better on 17" than the TRXs so it's down to personal choice.

You may well run into clearance issues with 265's on the rear unless you use spacers or run wheels with more offset.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2006 at 15:06

I had a few arguments with a friend regarding the e30 and 17's vs 18's. i took him out in the 325i (prior to project) and he came back saying the only thing that he had been in that handled better was a delta integrale.

When i first put the 18's on they were dreadful. tramlining like mad, following every angle in the road, and cornering was worsethan my previus 16's.

I changed the back control arm bushes for poly, and changed the round edged prielli's for f1 gsd3's. i ended up with no tramlining at all, less than i get in my little van, and it handled very well.

Bigger wheel's do put a bigger strain on bushes i agree, and bm's rubber bushes allow alot of free play, that larger wheel's take advantage of, and then ruin the feel.

i'm still looking at wheels, but a cross spoke type, deep dish is looking the favourite. being a second car, im trying to skimpon cost whilst i carry on with the 335.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-June-2006 at 15:09

These pics are taken straight from autotrader, but it did clean up well, and im going to get some pics on the site soon.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-June-2006 at 19:32

Finally got round to fitting my new style 5's today. Ordered two new tyres from Falken Tyres direct - £120 for both 235/45/17 inc P&P, delivered in 24hours - very impressed!

Anyway, the local tyre centre set the pressures at 23psi for the fronts and 34psi rears... i would assume the pressures should be roughly the same as for the standard 240/45/415 metrics (say 30/32psi on the fronts and 32/34psi rears)? Anyone else running style 5's what pressures do you use?

Also, I noticed straight away the car is now pulling to the right quite a lot, which it was doing only slightly if at all before. The steering wheel is pointing at around 11 o'clock instead of 12 to get the car to go in a straight line.. again this was very slight before but really pronounced with the new wheels.... do i now need to get the tracking done as well?

Cheers all


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-June-2006 at 17:42

Tyre pressures should be at around the 30psi mark. For normal running i run mine at 30psi at the front and 32psi at the rear. On a trip to Le Mans with the car loaded i went up to 35psi at the front and 38psi at the rear.

Tyre size wise the six was designed with narrow 195/205 tyres in mind. By the time the highline came with it's 245 tyres the car was if anything over tyred. I have driven mine with 220 metrics, 225 16" wheels, 235 17" wheels and i have driven others with the 245 metrics and one other with 265 18" rims at the rear and 235's at the front. IMO for what it's worth i think the perfect size in width terms is to run with 225's. Bigger than this and the car understeers at the front. Grip wise the car is a*sey at the rear, but with decent rubber i don't think you need a massively big rear tyre width. For reference i run mine with 225/50/ZR16's and Alpina rims all round. If i had more power ie M635/ Alpina B10 levels then i might go up to 245/45/16's at the rear, but i would go no bigger than 225 at the front.

Hope this helps

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-June-2006 at 02:08
Mark, I'd certainly get the tracking done if not a full alignment. Not all places will do it properly though.

Try AlignMyCar for a good place in your area. Dave Jerrome had his Six fettled by them & he said it drove like a different car.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-June-2006 at 17:56

Thanks James, Andy

I'm pretty sure the car needs aligning as I took it on a long motorway journey at the weekend, and there is still quite a bit of vibration around 70-80mph. I'd hoped the new wheels (metrics were slightly buckled) and balancing might sort it out, and although there is definately some improvement, it's still not the smooth cruiser it should be!

I've read up on big coupe that the car needs to be weighted down whilst a full alignment is done - is this true? Sounds like a bit more of a specialist job that the local kwikfit would definately overlook!!


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-July-2006 at 22:05

 

I dont know if you have resolved this issue yet mjf297 but being a London car my old black six eventually needed all the steering joints changing. I also replaced the universal joint.

New reaction bushes helped the 50-60mph vibration but replacing the control arms nailed it. Of course you may now have - or had all along - all new bushings(if so , i'll get me coat) But the six need's everything to be in good shape under there for it to cruise smooth(as I'm sure many more experienced members will agree)

DM

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-July-2006 at 23:00

Thanks DM,

I have thought for some time from the feel of the car that the front bushes and control arms needed replacement but was told they were OK so left it.

Anyway, took it in today for the 4 wheel alignment and my mechanic said there's no point until the above mentioned items are replaced, as there is play in several of the joints. Am waiting for a quote tomorrow, suppose I may as well get the whole lot done while I'm at it...

cheers,

Mark


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-July-2006 at 13:13

 

So now you've got to think - german&swedish/euro car parts or genuine BMW bit's!!!

Genuine stuff lasts much longer.

Coolio

P.S, should mention that a sticking caliper(s) causes vibration too.....thats where to look if the ubove doesnt make the car drive perfectly



Edited by dog man
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