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stu2002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fuel or Ignition?
    Posted: 09-December-2003 at 09:13

Just thought you'd like to know that I think I've found out what the problem was.............head gasket!!!

I noticed an increase amount of steam from the exhaust over the last weak or so and sure enough the water level had gone down.  However, I didn't relate the two things (seems strange with hindsight), because the rubber on the rad cap was a bit perished, so I just changed the rad cap.  Water level problem solved for a few days.  Then I noticed more water loss, investigated a bit further and found water in the oil!!!!!!!  Oh joy.

Why didn't I do a compression test??  Presumably this is why I was geting a misfire type situation as water isn't very combustible!  Strange that it took so long to show itself?  I think the extra pressurisation of system given by the new rad cap caused the gasket to finally blow.  Hopefully this was the actual problem and not just a side effect of the underlying cause.  On the plus side at least I've caught it early.

Looks like I'm in for a fun Christmas.

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stu2002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-November-2003 at 15:40
I replaced the vacuum advance unit with a brand new one, didn't make any difference.  Pretty sure the coil is connected correctly but will double check.  I've been assuming all along that the timing is correct and that the carb is set-up properly.  I think they must be there or therabouts but maybe its that final fine tuning is whats needed?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-November-2003 at 09:45

Maybe you are right and your vacuum advance unit is duff. If it is broken, carb takes fresh (wet, cold and dirty) air trough distributor. This might be the reason for points wearing.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-November-2003 at 09:33

Stu2002,

 

Just a suggestion mate, the coil is connected the right way round isn't it?

A mate of mine had the same thing.

If not, good luck!

Autos are easy. Its the steering thats hard.
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stu2002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-November-2003 at 09:02
I think it must be the ignition.  The points are wearing out very quickly and are the worst I've ever seen.  Although it doesn't affect the starting!!  Idle is pretty rough to start with but when warmed up she settles down quite nicely.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-November-2003 at 08:56
The carb isn't that old, about 4 or 5 years old.  I realise this is plenty of time for it to go wrong, but it's not worn out.  I've stripped, cleaned and rebuilt it about 5 times now, replaced the float needle valve.  All seems OK.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-November-2003 at 07:44

Maybe your engine is getting too much fuel? It is possible that old carbs doesn't stay where it was adjusted. One thing to check is fuel level in carb. The needle valve may be broken or dirty. That makes carb to float and your engine gets a little too much fuel. (My old Solex did that) It is possible to adjust the needle valve but mine was so worn that I bought new one.

One easy and fast way to check if your engine gets too much fuel: Take your air filter off and check if engine runs better. Remember that this isn't the way to fix the problem, just to determine it. Remember to put air filter back after test!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-November-2003 at 11:54

James

Unfortunately I haven't fixed the problem.  You name it and I've replaced it.  As your e30 is a very different beast to the 02 I would be reluctant to suggest anything.

Sorry I can't be of more help.  Good luck.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-November-2003 at 19:16

Stu2002... have you found a fix for the:

1) Severe juddering upon light acceleration or deceleration

2) Lumpy-ish idle

3) Unwillingness to idle from cold

4) Under hard acceleration the symptoms dissappear

I have a e30 320i with exact same problems!!!! I have been unable to fix, I have had the whole injection and fuel, airflow and ecu checked out to no gain in performance, compression on all six is fine.. I have cleaned out the ICV and AFM.. is it a misfire?? the only thing I havent checked is HT leads.

I know yours is carb but I was still hoping you had some advice. Anyone, please I am getting desparate, a gorgours, mint condition 320i Conv needs your help! I am reluctant to let BMW at it.. cash a bit tight as it coming up to xmas..

James.

----------------------

1990 320i Conv.

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stu2002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-October-2003 at 15:29

Just standard ignition with points & condensor i.e. no electronics.  Sorted the rev counter by fitting a diiferent temperature spark plug.

I'm  beginning to suspect that the vacuum advance unit is duff.  I tried sucking on the pipe and it was very difficult to get any movement of the plate.  This could possibly cause a 'misfire' under 'no load' conditions???

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-October-2003 at 12:14
You didn't mention which kind of ignition do you have. Usually these rev counter problems are caused by (what the h**l is it?) "ignition control box".  I've had 2 broken boxes in my previous cars (non-BMW) and the spark and rev counter probems were solved by replacing this box.  Maybe this is worth to try?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-October-2003 at 17:26
I spoke to Fay @ Jaymic as I gave them an old carb. Fay said it might have gone off for referb after all it is theirs to do what they want with. But I haven't heard back yet.

For donnington see;
http://www.bmw2002.co.uk/events.htm

Even if Jaymic have thrown out the carb or spent money on it, there is a parts stall @ donnington anyway.

I believe a pinto weber carb is a good replacement. see
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2437214110&category=21654
£61 looks a little steep to me, but that is about 2 hours of a mechanics time ;-)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=2438238247

I haven't suffered "throttle spindle wobble" myself but am a firm believer in the whole sale swapping of parts when you can get them for next to nothing and with so many ringers out there this should be possible.

What can be more fun than playing with a car and paying little for being able to do so.
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alistair, white '02, blue roof
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stu2002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-October-2003 at 15:55

No rudeness detected.  I agree it would be very good to try a carb swap.

Wasn't intending to go to Donington but it could be possible with some diary juggling.  It's a BMW Drivers Club event isn't it?  I'm not a member, only of the BMWCC.  Although I don't suppose it makes any difference.

I don't think the carb is worn, maybe just badly adjusted.  The carb is about 5 years old and I do around 3k miles per year.  The throttle spindle seems to be a snug fit, i.e. very little play.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-October-2003 at 14:13
If the carb is worn, no amount of cleaning will replace the worn bits. Are you going to Donnington this weekend if so perhaps a trial carb could be arrainged to eliminate that as a problem.

Sorry if this sounds a bit rude, emails always do. But if somebody else in the club can help you it would make your membership all that more worth while.
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alistair, white '02, blue roof
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stu2002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-October-2003 at 13:53

No joy with the carb, problem still there.  I seem to be swaying back toward the distributor/timing.  Don't know why, nothing seems to make sense anymore!!

I think I'll take it to my local garage and get them to hook it up to their Crypton to see if it's OK or not.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-October-2003 at 15:58

Have taken the carb out again and stripped & cleaned it for the 4th time!!  Will replace it tonight and keep my fingers crossed, but I'm not going to hold my breath.

My feeling is also that it must be the carb but for the life of me I can't find anything wrong with it.

Will let you know on Monday how it went.  Have a good weekend all.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-October-2003 at 09:17
Try swapping the carb.

Has anybody got a "known working carb" to try a swap. I had two but gave them away.

If I still had it I would lend it to you to try. Sorry about that. I shouldn't expect you to have to spend more than £10 for one??
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-October-2003 at 08:20

Had the car for 7 years now.  Never had the heat shield & never had any carb icing problems, guess I'm just clutching at straws in desperation.

Fitted the W8's last night, also did the points & condensor while I was at it.  Result - no difference, but it did sort out the tacho problem!

Really stumped as to what to try next, apart from throwing some more money at it.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-October-2003 at 23:14
How long have you had the car? The heat shield has two purposes, Firstly as a heat shield and second is for a warm air intake to reduce carb icing in cold weather. if you have no carb icing problem, the best heat shield solution is an E30 318i exhaust manifold gasket which has the heat shield as an extension of the gasket. I cant say about the adaptability of an E21 heat shield but they are quite different in appearance and the pipe comes off vertically, not horizontally. Mines been fine without one for the last 3 years.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14-October-2003 at 08:10

Will be fitting the W8's tonight.......fingers crossed.

I'm also lacking the manifold heat shield, perhaps the plugs are overheating???  Having some trouble finding one but I've heard that the heat shield from an E21 will fit with minor modification?

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