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Crispy-d 
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Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130 |
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 Topic: 1995 E34 540i Manual - running and idling...Posted: 09-May-2008 at 00:29 |
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Hello there, I recently acquired a 1995 540i. It is good to drive, obviously very fast and sounds amazing at higher rpm!
However, having done many many searches I am a little anxious about how it runs, and possible relations to worn cylinder linings. I won't start asking questions on Nikasil coating as I know all about that now! I have emailed BMW UK with my registration number and VIN and hoping they'll get back to me with details of my block. There's no evidence in service history of it being replaced, so I'm not hopeful. As I said, the car does run well - I get very good, in fact excellent mpg on the motorway, and if driven carefully just over 20mpg round Bristol. However, I've been told that a rough idle is bad, very bad. The thing is, how rough is a "rough idle?!" I am used to my previous perfectly-running straight six, so I'm hoping I'm just being fussy. When I first got the car, it did rock a little on idle, but that has got much better after some Italian Tuning and some injector cleaner additive. It runs far better, and I'm hoping it's just still a bit clogged up from the all-town driving done by the previous owner. With the doors open, they're not shaking around like rattles, and it's not uncomfortable to sit in, but you can definitely feel vibration through the seat. The girlfriend likes it, but I'm not too keen, and frankly a little worried having read lots about supermarket fuels! I learned that the previous owner used Tesco Fuel, allbeit for just a few months. The other thing is that when revving low, from 1000-2000rpm, it's definitely not as smooth as the six was. But again, I don't know how smooth these engines are meant to be. As soon as you hit 3000rpm you get a lovely induction roar and there seems to be a very subtle surge of power. No cold-starting problems, I don't think. I'm hoping it's just some kind of vacuum leak or gasket that needs replacing - there is a slight tapping sound that you hear with the old American V8s, so a gasket could be suspect? After 138k miles, I'd expect there to be a few funny noises, but I'm worried that it's not as super-smooth as I have read some are. Or have I just been spoilt with my previous car? Sorry for the tedious questions, just hoping I haven't bought a melon!! It certainly seems to go well, and it's incredibly quiet; I'm just a little worried that the small vibrations you get with it are in fact counted as "rough idling" and I've wasted a grand!! Kindest regards, Crispin Hall |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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BeemaBoy
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Starting a Collection Joined: 25-October-2004 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa Status: Offline Points: 927 |
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 06:34 |
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Hi Crispy-d Welcome to the world of V8 ownership The rough idle that you are experiencing is more than likely a vacuum leak! The engine that you have in your car is the M60. These engines, and their replacments (M62) suffer from a vacuum leak at the back of the Intake Manifold. The culprit is something called the PCV cover (Positive Crankcase Ventilation). As the car gets older, the rubber diaphram in the cover start to crack and tear and eventually stops doing its job of putting the 'blow by' gasses back into the manifold. You may start to find that your oil consumption will start to go up as the oil is thrown up into the manifold and sent straight down into the cylinders for ignition. Have you noticed and smoke behind you on hard acceleration? Something to also look at, which could also be making the problem worse is the valve cover gaskets. These get really bad and the rubber gets so hard that it no longer maintains a proper seal anymore, thereby allowing oil and air to escape past...causing your symptoms. But before all this, check every vacuum tube you can. There are quite a few on the M60 under the engine cover, but pay attention to the ones coming off the PCV cover at the back of the engine. There are also one or 2 on top of the manifold aswell. Also check that your ICV (Idle Control Valve) has not come away from the intake manifold...as this is also sealed by a small rubber washer thing... Let us know if you find anything... Good Luck... BB |
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87 E30 320I
95 E34 525I Auto, Executive Package, Arctic Silver 98 E38 740I Steptronic, Silver |
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BeemaBoy
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 06:42 |
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The item in question is number 3 on the diagram... http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE52&mospi d=47384&btnr=11_1498&hg=11&fg=40 Just noticed that you have a manual car! Must be one hell of a car with a V8 matched to a manual box! Is she 5 or 6 speed? Keep Well BB |
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87 E30 320I
95 E34 525I Auto, Executive Package, Arctic Silver 98 E38 740I Steptronic, Silver |
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Andrew Rolland
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 09:02 |
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I would agree with what Rawdon has said, check for any vacuum leaks but sometimes if it is a very slight thing it can be more tricky to get to solve. Don't ever use Supermarket sludge! I once inflicted Asda Try filling up with Shell VPower and give it some beans to help clean out the fuel system. Also might be worth changing the spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter. This should also help with your fuel consumption. Start with the easy stuff. When you are in at the plugs have a look at the condition of the ignition coils. I am assuming that your engine has individual coils above each sparker and not one coil and a large dizzy. Now at the risk of sounding a bit stupid as I should know this on my V8 but I don't know where it is....Have a look at the idle control valve. I stripped this out on my old 3.0i 24V Senator and cleaned it and it made a huge difference to the idle. I also swapped out the Lambda sensor on the Sennie and this made a difference also to idle. I think your V8 will have 2 lambda sensors. But remember, by their very nature V8's do have a slightly uneven idle. It is very difficult to get a V8 to run on idle smoothly. Mine idles at 500 rpm normally and about 750 rpm when the air con is on. I can occasionally feel the faintest of rocks on my V8 when it idles at 500 rpm when stationary in D with my foot on the foot brake. It has 27,300 miles on the clock and is still tight as a drum even at nearly 4 years old. Granted it is a smooth smooth machine at 4,500 rpm when she is taking off Let us know how you get on Andrew |
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Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!
Current '13 62 F10 535i MSport Auto Previous '04 04 E60 545i SE Auto '03 53 E60 545i SE Auto (Stolen) '98 S E39 523i SE Auto |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 09:15 |
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Ah - thank you so much for the quick replies! You've put my mind at rest, for a bit!! There is indeed a bit of smoke on hard acceleration, I thought perhaps it was just burning a little rich and that's how it got all it's power! Lol. After a quick run, on pulling up at traffic lights with the windows down you can smell a bit of a 'rich' or 'smokey' smell too. What's more, which although is not ideal is comforting to hear, there is some oil around the valve covers. It's quite hard to see with all the plastic covers all over the engine, but I'm sure it's leaking very slightly. I think it may even be leaving a very slow drip, but it's not severe. So perhaps this is the little problem. I was worried it could be something more serious. On a lighter note, especially for me - YES the V8 with a 6-speed manual is something else! I notice it has quite a chunky drive shaft, so am practising my double declutching on downshifts! I wonder if the O2 sensors could do with replacing. Again, there's no evidence of having been replaced, and on full-throttle (open-loop) she runs amazingly. Once again, BB, thanks ever so much for your help! I'll see to getting what you mentioned looked at. All the best, Crispin Edited by Crispy-d |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 09:19 |
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Just seen your reply too, Andrew. Thanks for that too! I do actually have a tank full of V-Power at the moment, and am attempting to 'clear it out' a bit. Seems to have worked so far. Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated. Regards, Crispin |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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Peter Fenwick
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Joined: 27-August-2003 Location: Lost somewhere in time... Status: Offline Points: 6484 |
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 09:44 |
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Crispin, you can put you mind at rest about the Nikasil issue by getting a compression check done. It shouldn't be too expensive but it will tell you straight away if you have a problem. I would not expect to see anything re Nikasil in the Service history since if it was done it would have been done under warranty. |
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Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel.
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Crombers
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Posted: 09-May-2008 at 13:23 |
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I'd only worry about the Nikasil issue after you have addressed the usual niggles of the V8. The best way to confirm the crankcase ventilation valves failure is by removing the dipstick while the car is idling and see if there's a vacuum, it should be very noticeable if you were to put your finger over the hole and feel the suction. If there is any oil showing at the gaskets then get the plugs out and make sure they are dry. You may well find oil down the plug holes which will need cleaned while replacing the gaskets. Oil down the holes will also ruin you coil boots so I'd buy a replacement set. Boots in good condition 'pop' off the plugs with a bit of a pull, if they are in need of replacement they will come off without any effort at all. The idle on my 540 and B10 is perfect, so that's what you should aim for! I've replaced all the coil in the 540 which rid me of the last bit of idle vibration. The V8 when reved through the range should be silky smooth, more so than the six in my opinion, but only when in top form. My 540 took wads of cash and plenty of tinkering to restore its form, but worth it in the end. Over and above the PCV you could be doing with spraying carb cleaner round any the intake manifold. The manifold gaskets themselves will probably due for replacement if they haven't been done already. Replace the O2 sensors after you have completed the other jobs otherwise you'll prematurely wear the next set.
Best of luck!
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 10-May-2008 at 15:47 |
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Right - just been out with a mate and bought a compression tester. All done and the results are as follows:
(NB - I have no idea how the cylinder numbers work, and so I have numbered them myself! :) Number 1 starts at the driver's side bulkhead, round to the front (anticlockwise) and back round to the passenger's side bulkhead, 8 - sorry if that's confusing!!) #1 - 200PSI #2 - 200PSI #3 - 190PSI (actually, was just below, so about 187PSI...) #4 - 190PSI #5 - 201PSI #6 - 191PSI #7 - 200PSI #8 - 200PSI Is this an acceptable result for 138k miles, or would this concern you? Some of the spark plug holes had a very small quantity of oil down them - would this affect the result at all? I'm a bit concerned to see 3 of the cylinders being a bit low. Is it within tolerances? The idle is much much better now, having been running V-Power and not pootling about town so much. Also, one thing to mention is that starting from cold is always spot on, very quick and no hesitation and also the idle is always smooth when cold. It's only once it's warmed up, and usually when driving round town. Many thanks for all the help so far, Crispin Edited by Crispy-d |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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jetsetwilly2000
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Posted: 12-May-2008 at 11:52 |
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That's only a 5% variation, which must be well within tolerances.
This thread is interesting - my own 540 is dead in the drive atm. Had some contaminated fuel a while ago (crap in (new) fuel filter, o2 sensors showing a fault, terrible running), but have now flushed it all out (including wiping the tank dry thru the pump hole), but the car still won't go. Have replaced crank and cam sensors and am about to test fuel pressure and flow, but of course vacuum should have been the first thing to test! I'll be spraying some brake cleaner round the engine bay when I get home - well, if it will start up! Only got it running yesterday by spraying easystart up the throttle body - NOT reccommended with a plastic intake manifold! |
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E90 M3 DCT, E46 330d Touring, VW T5 wannabecamper
Previous: Disco 3 TDV6, 2x E34 540i6, E34 535iS |
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Sporty1
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Posted: 12-May-2008 at 17:03 |
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Believe that anything greater than 10% variance is something to be concerned about. |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 12-May-2008 at 22:34 |
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Oh, sorry to hear that jetsetwilly2000 - that's a bit unfortunate!
If the engine starts with easy start spray, then the ignition is obviously doing something! So it must be something on the fuel side, I'd have thought. Whatever this stuff was, has it knackered the injectors? Sounds like the whole lot needs to be cleaned and reset. That's the problem with all these electronics - it could be anything!! Hope you solve the problem. Meanwhile, I have realised that holding the throttle at slightly different positions is likely to have affected my compression readings, even if only by a little bit. This might account for the slightly low values. I'm sure there were some where I forgot to hold down the accelerator. Most were done at half throttle though. Anyway - it's running fine though, and it doesn't seem to use any oil at all either. At least not in the 700 miles I've been using it round Bristol, so I'm happy!  Have been using the loud pedal a bit too much though recently, in an attempt to clear out all the London deposits, so mpg has dropped to about 16.5mpg!! BUT - that's STILL better than the Volvo was  !Also saw a fairly newish-looking XK8 today startup and drive off - was smoking like mad and didn't nearly as good as mine, so I'm thinking mine's alright. I'm just a bit or a perfectionist/pedanctic/sad!! Lol. |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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540 V8
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Posted: 12-May-2008 at 22:46 |
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Firstly, welcome to a very exclusive club of the 540 V8 6 speed, one club I am also proud to be a member of! Nikasil is very unlikely to be your problem. That would have manifested itself a long time ago. High sulphur fuel (the cause of the nikasil breakdown) was phased out years ago so any damage that ocurred would have been known to the previous owner. A sign of bore wear is terrible starting problems from cold so it sounds like you are ok. The rough running sounds like you have a cylinder or two mis firing. As already mentioned, vacuum pipes could be a very likely cause also spark plugs. Rocker cover gaskets may have eaten the coil pack boots causing the insulation to fail. V-power is the way to go for fuel. The way I see it, it's cleaner burning and so more efficient meaning you use slightly less which has been proven. Also, if you are going to use it regularly, join the shell drivers club. You get points for fuel you buy which you can use towards fuel vouchers. I have just been upgraded to the V-power club which you get 1 point per litre of normal unleaded and 2 points per litre of V-power unleaded or Diesel. The extra money you spend on V-power is swallowed up by teh little fuel savings and the money you get back from the drivers club. Hope you get it sorted soon, I have a misfire on mine at the moment but to be honest, when you have 7 cylinders which are still very responsive and a car which is still very quick, I really have to concentrate at idle to feel and hear the misfire but it is there alright! I'll get round to fixing it at some point! Good luck Mike |
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Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 13-May-2008 at 00:12 |
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Well, I do remember when removing all the spark plugs for the compression test, teh coils just lifted off. There was certainly no 'pop' or any resistance whatsoever, but then I saw that the coil contacts are pushed down onto the spark plug by a spring, so assumed it wouldn't make a different.
The spark plugs themselves are still quite new, and look fine; the previous owner serviced the car not so long ago and I can see. The oil is still quite clean and like I said, the plugs look good, with good colour. But if the boots really make that much difference then I'll definitely require new ones! There was a very faint vacuum on the dipstick, but not very strong at all. Can they fail gradually, or would I really know if it was on its way out? It may just be starting to fail, so I'll certainly look into it anyway! It's quite annoying really, as I'm short of cash right now due to not being able to sell my Volvo!! The DVLA STILL haven't sent my V5 from when I first purchased the car!! So until I get that through and get it sold, I won't be able to buy any parts, so fiddling around with pipes and spraying manifolds will have to suffice for now! Thanks for all your help - it certainly is an exclusive club! And I'm proud to be a memeber! Kindest regards, Crispin |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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Andrew Rolland
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Posted: 13-May-2008 at 08:26 |
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Nah Autos are the way to go on big V8's! Smooth power delivery and still quick enough, but that is just me. The E34 540's appear to be one of those cars that you got in manual. These were bought in the day by keen drivers who wanted the manual box with a big snorting engine for serious driving. I think most of the ones I have seen are manuals. Because they are big engines, they get looked after and last well and end up in the hands of enthusiasts like yourself and Mike. Your HT lead/coil thing should pull off with resistance i.e. be a firm fit over the top of the sparkers. At 13 years old the rubbers will have started to age and loose their grip slightly. The tip is to remove the spark plug covers, park the car in a dark garage and start the engine and watch for any "lightning" or arcing around the spark plug/HT coil area which would indicate a breakdown in either the coil or the insulation. Obviously don't go poking a screwdriver in and about when doing this! She is probably still running on the same coils as day one. It is re-assuring to see that spark plugs look good when taking them out an engine. I had a hesitation problem on my old Senator and changing the plugs didn't help but they were in good nick (18,000 miles) for a 14 year old engine but the hesitation didn't go away, it was down to the butterfly valve fluttering when it shouldn't but I only found that out after I traded it in against my E39. You need to put some pictures up of the beast! Andrew |
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Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!
Current '13 62 F10 535i MSport Auto Previous '04 04 E60 545i SE Auto '03 53 E60 545i SE Auto (Stolen) '98 S E39 523i SE Auto |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 13-May-2008 at 11:04 |
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Hello Andrew,
I might try that then. The rubber's really thick round those spark plugs though, if they are knackered can sparks really be seen?! I'll have a go next time it's dark. I do believe they are the original coils. There's nothing indicating them having been changed. Also the lambda sensors are original too. I did post some pics here the other day, but they're a bit rubbish; only taken with my phone camera!!! When I get it home and give it a proper clean I'll post up some fancy pics of her! http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=41157&am p;PN=1 Crispin |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 09-October-2008 at 09:23 |
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Hello all,
Just an update - been away for a while! My 540i is running MUCH better than it was back in May and is far smoother at idle these days. I've established it doesn't use any engine oil (or at least very very little) and has wanted for absolutely nothing since I've had it! *touches wood* The only things of concern now are: a) The rear differential seems to have a slow drip - this was mentioned in the history so has obviously been doing it for a while. How long before the oil runs out I don't know, but I will have to get it in and sorted/refilled pretty pronto as I don't want that failing! b) It failed the emissions on high CO content (with HC at ~80ppm) which I see as running slightly rich. I have put this down to lambda sensors and so have purchased a couple and will be fitting them today. The old ones have been out and are white in colour, so I presume that means they're shot? c) The CAT that was rattling has now stopped, but under active inspection has been found in the rear silencer! The nearside CAT is completely empty - NOTHING left inside! This will explain the slightly uneven running. I found this while having the rear silencer changed for a stainless steel one. I will admit that I am a sucker for the V8 burble and asked for a nice subtle sound, but alas on my return to the shop I found a tiny can on the back (although true dual and quite a good job) and it is much louder than I wanted. Of course they have said that it only booms because of the empty CAT, but I am unsure that it would make that much difference. Would an empty CAT make a straight-through silencer resonate that much more?! Sounds good, admittedly, but too loud for me. Looking at the size of the aftermarket CATS available I will be replacing the nearside one with an OEM part, but not new as I can't afford that!! I will have to wait till a low mileage good condition 2nd hand one turns up. The emissions weren't too out, so with the new lambdas I have no doubt it'll pass the test with only the 1 CAT. Only other thing is occasionally when cold the engine won't catch fully and I have to hold the starter for a little longer than normal otherwise it dies. It's never had starting problems before, but this is not an often occurrence and I'm hoping is because it's in need of a service. The plugs are most likely a bit sooty after running rich for so long too, so fingers crossed! Sorry for the essay, but just to say it's all running well and apart from the awful booming that is ruining what used to be a relaxing drive everything's getting sorted and it all looks good for now! All I need now is new tyres for the MOT!! :( Bit more expensive than I first thought too, anyone have any favourites out there? I want to keep the SP01's as I reckon they're pretty good, although nothing on here about them? Hope you're all well. Regards, Crispin |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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540 V8
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Posted: 10-October-2008 at 21:56 |
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Hi Crispin, glad to hear the running is much better and it sounds like your more major issues could have been sorted. I still have a tiny niggle with the running of mine but it's not the cyliners so I'm wondering if one of my cats may be failing or a lambda sensor. It really struggled to pass the emissions on the MOT so it's very possible! I'm glad you posted this because it's gives me another possibility to try. Anyway, sorry to hijack your thread! From what you said about the starting it could be a number of things but starting with the basic and cheap options is the way to go. A service is a must if it's not been done for a while or there is no history. Other possibilities could be fuel problem. Make sure you change the filters when you do the service. If it's still the same, try listening for the fuel pump priming when you switch on the ignition (before you start) if you don't hear a humming noise then it could be the pump not kicking in. That may be a wire or the pump itself. I'm not exactly sure what system the V8 uses for cold starting. I'm assuming there must be a temperature sensor which tells the ECU to supply the correct mixture for cold starting. Perhaps this sensor is faulty? There is a few things to be going with,hope it'snot too daunting and you get it sorted without too much hassle. May the force be with you Mike |
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Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard |
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Crispy-d
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Posted: 10-October-2008 at 23:27 |
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Hello Mike,
Good to hear from you again and feel free to hijack away! Mine occasionally feels like it's misfiring, but I am now aware that it is the uneven exhaust pressures doing this - the empty CAT on the nearside is obviously interrupting the smooth running a little and giving it a slight, well, unevenness! However, I have to say it does make the car sound quite cool - gives it a proper American muscle car grunt :) Unfortunately I have not managed to fit my lambdas today as I worked a little later than planned and am working all weekend :( but will get round to it!! I hope they will make a difference. One thing I notice is that from a cold start the car will sometimes feel a little hesitant with maybe even a slight misfire between 1000-2000rpm when the temperature guage reads just over the blue marker, so when it's just beginning to warm. I have guessed that this is just because of the lambdas and their dodgy signals screwing things up as they begin to take over after choke. It only ever happens with light throttle mind, but then that's all I ever use when cold as I don't want to wreck the engine. As for my cold starting woes, they are not really woes, I'm just being fussy again. I was doing many short journeys in last two weeks, and it has been very cold. It only ever does it if the car hasn't had a proper run before shutting off so I presume it's simply 'clogged up' as I know that affects some engines. In regards to servicing - the lights have just gone down to one green light left, although really I should have done it a while ago as I don't like to rely on the computer. It does however have full BMW service history up until last year, so I'm happy that it's been looked after, and the bills are pretty scary to look at! I think I will do the servicing myself though, so am thinking Fuchs 5-40 Fully Synthetic...? I've read good things on this forum about that. I will also do the fuel filter(s) now you mention it(them) and all the other little bits. But the rear differential oil and gasket and the gearbox oil I will have to leave for my local BMW specialist. Many thanks for replying and for your advice. Will speak again soon once I'm worthy to give a verdict on fitting new lambda sensors! Take care, Crispin |
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BMW E39 M5 - 2002
Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989 |
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540 V8
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Lick my badge Joined: 07-December-2005 Location: Running the asylum Status: Offline Points: 2280 |
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Posted: 11-October-2008 at 08:09 |
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Fuchs titan supersyn 5w40 is what is recommended for my car and I won't use anything else. My misfire (or whatever it is) doesn't seem to hamper performance. I only seem to get it a at idle and when I'm accelerating slightly. If I floor it, it pulls like a train, quite smoothly. I'm not too fussed but it's just one of those niggly things. When I eventually get round to it, I'll have a look at the lambda's and the cat's. Chat soon mate Mike
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Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard |
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1995 E34 540i Manual - running and idling...
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on my E39 and I only got mid 20s on a motorway run, where I should have got over 30 mpg.
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jetsetwilly2000 wrote: