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M3Nally View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-November-2003 at 16:53
Adwo,

His theory may be bo~~ocks but it started the car, that was all I cared about.

He said it was damp and had alot of cars that day with the same starting trouble.

I have not had any trouble starting since but it is still a bit rough until it's warmed up.

I am now armed with carb cleaner, and multimeter and will have a look tomorrow morning before the rain comes down again.

Good weekend all
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-November-2003 at 18:08
There is a thing called flood clear mode on injection cars. Engine off, full throttle and crank the engine. That is how you would do a dry compression test with out disconecting your fuel. It works.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-November-2003 at 21:06

Originally posted by ROB ROSS ROB ROSS wrote:

There is a thing called flood clear mode on injection cars. Engine off, full throttle and crank the engine. That is how you would do a dry compression test with out disconecting your fuel. It works.

How can you crank the engine without it turning on? Pull fuse 11 or the fuel relay is the only method I know (or the code feature on the OBC)..

Repeat: the only way to bring the S14 back to life is to install fresh spark plugs or hang em out to dry..

Or this is an undocumented Bosch feature: do you have any proof of this IRL?

Adwo

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-November-2003 at 21:09

Originally posted by M3Nally M3Nally wrote:

Adwo,

His theory may be bo~~ocks but it started the car, that was all I cared about.

I can surely understand that!

Originally posted by M3Nally M3Nally wrote:

I have not had any trouble starting since but it is still a bit rough until it's warmed up.

I am betting on a injector not sealing intermittently combined with the gaskets leaking...

Originally posted by M3Nally M3Nally wrote:


I am now armed with carb cleaner, and multimeter and will have a look tomorrow morning before the rain comes down again.

Good weekend all

 

Same to you, let us know what you find...

Adwo

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-November-2003 at 12:02
Well,
I have checked the plugs, all ok

Checked the rotor cap, the contacts are a bit pitted but nothing to write home about

Checked the coolant sensor ,reading seemed to be ok

Sprayed the inlet manifold with carb cleaner and the revs rose! Sound familiar to anyone.

Will leaking inlet gaskets get much worse quickly or can I leave it a while? Anyone got any instructions on changing them?

Ta for all your help
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grant w View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-November-2003 at 12:46
the simple solutions are often the best ,its your inlet blocks that need changing , it depends on how your going to drive your car , if it's a every day car and you like to give it some stick then i would change them straight away it won't do your valves or pistons any good running that weak on one or two cylinders .
you'll need to find out what size throttle bodies you have 46mm or 48mm , early cars had 46mm and later cars had 48mm .
munich legands have both in stock , £49.17 each + vat and fitting ..
munich legends 01825 740456

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-November-2003 at 13:43
Leaking inlet gaskets. At least you have found the fault.You should really do them as soon as poss.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 10:27
Cheers chaps,

If I have an air leak, why do the plugs still look alright? I suspect it's because once it gets warm the leaks seal up and it then runs the right mixture.

I had a look at Gustaves site where he uses paper gaskets from E28/E34 M5 to seal inlet leaks, has anyone done this?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 11:55
if your going to bodge the job why go to the trouble to import paper gaskets why not use some silicon sealer just as good if not better or just do the job properly ..

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 13:35

The S14 is very sensitive to intake leaks, you should tend to them immediately. Running lean at 7000 rpm is not something you want to do.

Regarding the M5 gaskets: I tried them but they only work with the 46 mm throttle bodies, otherwise the shape is totally different.

Originally posted by grant w grant w wrote:

if your going to bodge the job why go to the trouble to import paper gaskets why not use some silicon sealer just as good if not better or just do the job properly ..

Don't use silicon on the cylinderhead, you will regret it dearly when changing the gaskets the next time.. You can use it between the gasket and the throttle body though. Sparingly!!

Regards,

Adwo

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 13:45
I believe BMW had a service update for this problem some years ago which was to use sealant and NOT to replace the intake blocks - anybody?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 13:49
i'm not endorsing the use of silicon i would'nt use it my self , i'd have new inlet blocks fitted straight away , as i found out to my cost on my old engine that had a air leak on a allready lean running engine and it destroyed one of the pistons , the use of silicon is a trick used by racing teams so that they don't have to keep fitting new inlet blocks ...

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 14:52
I never bodge anything, so do i need any special BMW tools to take the inlet manifold off?

How long to do this job?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 16:28
Originally posted by 215DMX 215DMX wrote:

I believe BMW had a service update for this problem some years ago which was to use sealant and NOT to replace the intake blocks - anybody?

BMW replaced my intake gaskets
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2003 at 17:14
So if I phone my friendly local dealer they will kindly change mine gratis???!!!

That would be nice for Christmas.

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