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Stuganderson View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28-January-2009 at 01:09

Hi again,

The other day both the ABS and traction control lights on my dash lit up and have since stayed on. I have a 2000 528i Sport.

I did notice a grinding noise when i pressed the brake but i didn't think anything of it as the car hadn't moved for 6 days, and i thought it would clear (it did).

The brakes do feel a bit juddery now though and i'm going to have a look at them within the next couple of days.

Could it just be grit/salt from the roads or is there something more serious crying out for my attention??

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shinyb1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-January-2009 at 08:36

mine did this on my e36 323 , it was my front r/h abs sensor , changed both at same time , spot on now

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Andrew Rolland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-January-2009 at 13:13

Yeah classic E39 fault.

You more than likely have a faulty wheel sensor.

This needs to be diagnosed by a garage with the car hooked up to the diagnostic machine.  This will identify the faulty sensor.  A new OEM sensor from ECP will set you back about £60.  It is an easy 30 min diy job provided you have a 5 mm Allen key.

Once the new sensor is fitted the fault light will remain on until you have driven a short distance.  After this the light will go out and the car will behave normally.  the fault however will still remain buried away in the cars brain but this is nowt to worry about.

Do a search on here and you will find plenty of similar threads including at least two from me! 

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fergi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2009 at 10:52
I've also got this problem, am I right in thinking if you get the ABS/DSC light on and lose your speedo and fuel consumption gauge the sensor at fault is the N/S rear?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2009 at 12:34

Welcome to the forum.

Yes it is possible but you should get a diagnostic check done to confirm this.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kbannon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-January-2009 at 12:40
Originally posted by Fergi Fergi wrote:

I've also got this problem, am I right in thinking if you get the ABS/DSC light on and lose your speedo and fuel consumption gauge the sensor at fault is the N/S rear?

It is most likely a sensor but it could be anything else within the system hence Andrew's recommendation for a diagnosis.
When my ASC light went on my '97 E39, it was the bowden cable (#3 here)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stuganderson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-January-2009 at 11:23

I've got my car booked in on Wed to get it hooked up to the diagnostic m/c to see which sensor is faulty.

You guys were right, my mechanic said it was a common fault on E39's.

Thanks for your help.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fozzymandeus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2009 at 04:30
The E38 I've recently acquired has a similar problem, ABS, DSC and Brake Pad Wear lights all illuminate when the car gets warm.

I think it's the Bosch ABS ECU that's to blame. OBD says "Right Rear Wheel Sensor" but that's been changed to no avail. I'm gonna send the ABS unit off to be repaired at one of those places that does a wee bit of soldering. Cheaper than the £1300 for a new one from BMW.

My reasoning for suspecting the controller is that it sits right above one of the exhaust manifolds - not a great place for a PCB, unless you want to slowly bake it.


Edited by fozzymandeus
Beating around the bush.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stuganderson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-February-2009 at 11:09

Only a week after I got my car back with a new front passenger side sensor the traction control and abs lights are back on!!

It's back in to get hooked up to the diagnostic m/c today but the mechanic seems to think it may be the abs module.

That sound about right to you guys??

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fozzymandeus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-February-2009 at 17:53
What I said above, chap. 

Mine is at www.ecu-testing.com right now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-February-2009 at 18:26
Originally posted by Stuganderson Stuganderson wrote:

Only a week after I got my car back with a new front passenger side sensor the traction control and abs lights are back on!!

It's back in to get hooked up to the diagnostic m/c today but the mechanic seems to think it may be the abs module.

That sound about right to you guys??

Yes it is unfortunatley.  When my first wheel sensor failed, the gargae that diagnosed it for me told me that it could be either the wheel sensor (front offside) or the ABS unit itself.  Their advice was to swap out the sensor as this was the cheap(er) fix.  In both of my cases it was just the wheel sensor.

Although I'm sure on 5 owner had a fault with a connection or a broken wire which indicated a fault but the wheel sensor was o.k. as was the ABS unit, but I think it was a struggle to find the fault though.

Keep us posted 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stuganderson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2009 at 10:59

After having it diagnosed again, it's registering a fault with another two sensors. The same one which has been changed on the front and also one on the back.

I read somewhere that if the cruise control or the speedo are not working then that could indicate a sensor fault on the back wheels.

My cruise and speedo are working as normal.

My brakes are now making a hell of a noise too, a grinding noise but with a springy, spongy feel as well.

Something 'aint right!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dergside Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2009 at 11:08

I wonder if there is any possibility of an issue with an ABS relay or something like that that could be causing misleading errors to be reported on the diags?

I had an e36 325i that showed an ABS warning light but couldn't get in to the diags to read the faults.  When one of the relays was changed, hey presto, the diags were available again and then the correct problem could be identified.  I know its not a direct parallel but it might be worth thinking about. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hasso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2009 at 12:50

Originally posted by kbannon kbannon wrote:

Originally posted by Fergi Fergi wrote:

I've also got this problem, am I right in thinking if you get the ABS/DSC light on and lose your speedo and fuel consumption gauge the sensor at fault is the N/S rear?

It is most likely a sensor but it could be anything else within the system hence Andrew's recommendation for a diagnosis.
When my ASC light went on my '97 E39, it was the bowden cable (#3 here)

The bowdenwire is only on cars before 09/98 and gives ONLY ASC light not ABS.  A sensor gives both ABS/ASC light

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fozzymandeus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2009 at 13:08
People are starting to talk about cars that are pre Bosch 5.7 electronics, i.e. cars without DSC.

The failed ABS controller is a commonly occuring problem, due to the fact that the electronics all sit within the engine bay as opposed to earlier ASC cars that have a controller under a front seat, out of harm's way.

A possible thing to try might require an identical (same engine, gearbox, model year etc car). You can try swapping out the controllers from a vehicle in full working order to see what happens. I'm not sure I'm actually recommending this, but who knows.

Also, problems can arise due to the rings on the wheel hub (inductor rings? maybe? I forget) needing a damn good clean, to stop a patchy signal being sent.
Beating around the bush.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hasso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2009 at 13:13
Originally posted by Stuganderson Stuganderson wrote:

After having it diagnosed again, it's registering a fault with another two sensors. The same one which has been changed on the front and also one on the back.

I read somewhere that if the cruise control or the speedo are not working then that could indicate a sensor fault on the back wheels.

My cruise and speedo are working as normal.

My brakes are now making a hell of a noise too, a grinding noise but with a springy, spongy feel as well.

Something 'aint right!!

Hi first of all, the sensor you changed in front, no problem with that no drilling out or some parts of the old sensor still in the hole.? Its very easy to damage the trigger points in the wheelbearing if you need to drill the sensor out. Then you get problem when out break when you drivs slow, if the sensor cant read properly from the triggerpoints it think the wheel is standing still and the ABS starts pumping.

But I think you get a typical fault fore modulproblem, there is no diagnos who can say that the modul is faulty its says sensorfaulty or ABS in and outlet valve insstead.

Best to have is BMW INPA Ediabas with a laptop there you can se  live how the sensorsignal works if you dont have any problems with the sensorsignals when you drivs the car its proberly the absmoduls its a very commen faulty on -99-00 E39/E38 I have seen at least 500-600 cars all over the world the last 7-8 years.

BMW Inpa could look like this in live when a frontsensor is faulty when you drive the car.

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00015152_s640. jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00015153_s640. jpg

 

 

 



Edited by Hasso
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stuganderson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-February-2009 at 13:57

It's looking increasing like the Abs conrol unit is faulty.

Is it as easy as removing the six bolts to remove it? I know i can send it away to get it refurbished so i'm thinking if it's that easy i'll do it myself.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fergi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-February-2009 at 15:57
fozzymandeus wrote:   A possible thing to try might require an identical (same engine, gearbox, model year etc car). You can try swapping out the controllers from a vehicle in full working order to see what happens. I'm not sure I'm actually recommending this, but who knows.

Don't think will work as you would have to have the replacement part coded to your car wouldn't you? I've just sent my controller of to BBA as it was definetly a heat related problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fozzymandeus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-February-2009 at 21:23
there's nothing to recode if it's the same car, MY, engine etc etc.

Unless the ECU is clever enough to check the VIN! ;)

Recoding is, as far as I know because of differences in setup, for example 4.4 ltr cars have drive by wire throttles, but 3.5 ltr ones dont.

I Could be Wrong!!

Oh and yes, Off with the bolts, out with the connector, away with the electronic gubbins.

Battery really ought to be disconnected.

and you might need to remove bits of the air filter for access.


Edited by fozzymandeus
Beating around the bush.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stuganderson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-February-2009 at 21:22

Garage thinks the Abs module is faulty, but he is talking about replacing the whole unit, eg the pump part and the control unit which i believe is bolted on the front of the pump.

The whole unit is obviously quite pricey, i'm just wondering if i need to? Does the Abs pump fail often or is it a case of just replacing the control unit?

 

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