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rear brake pads

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kilburnmick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kilburnmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: rear brake pads
    Posted: 10-February-2009 at 13:33

hi everyone,can anyone tell me do i need any special tools with which to change the rear pads on my 2003 520i e39

thanks

mick

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Andrew Rolland View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 13:53

You need either a 7mm or 8mm Allen key for the calliper retaining bolts and that's it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kilburnmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 13:59

cheers Andrew,someone told me i would need a tool to wind back the piston?

 

mick

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kbannon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kbannon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 14:00
A g-clamp should do that for you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kilburnmick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 14:02

nice one

mick

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 14:15

Once you have removed the pads from the calliper, open the bleed nipple/screw with an 11 mm open end spanner and you will then be able to move the piston back by hand.  Just be careful that the brake fluid that now comes out of the bleed screw doesn't shoot out and land on the paintwork.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dryle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 14:23

Andrew,

 

I thought you opened the resevoir cap to releive the pressure on the piston?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnny conway Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 15:09

Id go with Andrew on this. Just my luck to mess up something in the ABS/ASC up @ the business end of the motor by forcing fluid back through the system. When undoing and tightening the bleed screw, be sure that the bleed screw is faced upward directly and also whilst winding the piston back. you can always top up the rezer when finished.(Connect a foot or so of piping to the bleed screw purely to take excess fluid away from your hands and the job @ hand.

 

J

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dryle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 15:28
Originally posted by Johnny conway Johnny conway wrote:

Id go with Andrew on this. Just my luck to mess up something in the ABS/ASC up @ the business end of the motor by forcing fluid back through the system. When undoing and tightening the bleed screw, be sure that the bleed screw is faced upward directly and also whilst winding the piston back. you can always top up the rezer when finished.(Connect a foot or so of piping to the bleed screw purely to take excess fluid away from your hands and the job @ hand.

 

J

Ok, its just I did a basic car maintenance course and he said to open the resevoir to allow the piston move. It means you only open 1 cap for doing both sides.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kbannon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 15:54
Opening the cap is the traditional method but some mechanics argue that by doing this on a car with ABS can cause damage.
I just opened the cap when I did mine last time and so far no problems!
If you are opening the nipple then be sure to watch the reservoir for a drop in fluid - top it up with the same fluid (presumably dot 4) as the level will probably already be low and will only get lower as time goes on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dryle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 17:27
The Mechanic said that if you open the cap as you push the piston back the brake fluid will return to correct level.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnnydev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-February-2009 at 22:25
be prepared to draw off fluid from reservoir when you replace the new pads..I had to take loads out when I did fronts plus discs...is your reservoir buried under the pollen filter on the drivers side?? be careful removing the duct that fits into the bulkhead ...the plastic lugs are easily broken john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kbannon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-February-2009 at 08:20
I think that if you have to take some out, then it may have been topped up before when it had gone down. Normally, it shouldn't require this.
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