Auxiliary Water Pump leaking coolant! - E34 540i

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   Hello,

Having enjoyed a very long time of trouble-free motoring I started noticing, last week, wet patches forming underneath my car on the driveway. I at first assumed it was just rain water or puddle water that was draining from the undertray (think I made that word up, not sure what it's actually called) having come to a stop. 

But, the weather has been amazing recently, with no possibility of water having come from the road. So I investigated.

It was definitely coolant and was getting worse and worse each day, enough yesterday to show up clearly where it was coming from. It was dripping all over the left bank exhaust manifold, clearly coming from underneath the auxiliary water pump (which I didn't even know it had!)

I took it all to pieces and discovered (if anyone has ever looked inside one before) that coolant was seeping through a TINY crack in the 'protective' cup (which is meant to seal the electric motor from the coolant in the impeller housing) and down through a drain hole. 

I shall, tomorrow, be going in to Ipswich to see if I can get a new little orange cup thing but having done a search on here and finding just one post with the same problem it looks like the parts are not sold individually and that I'll have to replace the entire pump! :( 

The previous poster noted that on taking off the impeller housing, all the bits fell out - I have found exactly the same thing but am thinking that is normal as the orange sealing cup is meant to hold them all together in operation. If I'm wrong and in fact mine's knackered too then maybe I'm better off with a new pump anyway!? 

With all this drama concerning the heater valve area, this will give me a chance to attack my heater valves and find out why my Air Con and general temperature control is not working and always hot!!

I should have taken pictures really to help those who may have the same problem, but I thought I'd at least write a small description just in case anyone else has a similar problem and can't fathom what's wrong!

Crispin

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Crispy-d Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member I Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130	Post Options Post Reply Quote Crispy-d Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Auxiliary Water Pump leaking coolant! - E34 540i Posted: 24-May-2009 at 23:49
	Hello, Having enjoyed a very long time of trouble-free motoring I started noticing, last week, wet patches forming underneath my car on the driveway. I at first assumed it was just rain water or puddle water that was draining from the undertray (think I made that word up, not sure what it's actually called) having come to a stop. But, the weather has been amazing recently, with no possibility of water having come from the road. So I investigated. It was definitely coolant and was getting worse and worse each day, enough yesterday to show up clearly where it was coming from. It was dripping all over the left bank exhaust manifold, clearly coming from underneath the auxiliary water pump (which I didn't even know it had!) I took it all to pieces and discovered (if anyone has ever looked inside one before) that coolant was seeping through a TINY crack in the 'protective' cup (which is meant to seal the electric motor from the coolant in the impeller housing) and down through a drain hole. I shall, tomorrow, be going in to Ipswich to see if I can get a new little orange cup thing but having done a search on here and finding just one post with the same problem it looks like the parts are not sold individually and that I'll have to replace the entire pump! :( The previous poster noted that on taking off the impeller housing, all the bits fell out - I have found exactly the same thing but am thinking that is normal as the orange sealing cup is meant to hold them all together in operation. If I'm wrong and in fact mine's knackered too then maybe I'm better off with a new pump anyway!? With all this drama concerning the heater valve area, this will give me a chance to attack my heater valves and find out why my Air Con and general temperature control is not working and always hot!! I should have taken pictures really to help those who may have the same problem, but I thought I'd at least write a small description just in case anyone else has a similar problem and can't fathom what's wrong! Crispin
	BMW E39 M5 - 2002 Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989

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540 V8 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bavarian-Board Contributor Lick my badge Joined: 07-December-2005 Location: Running the asylum Status: Offline Points: 2280	Post Options Post Reply Quote 540 V8 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26-May-2009 at 21:25
	I think from what you've written, putting a few new bits in a failed unit is just going to then show up weaknesses in other areas so perhaps best to get a new unit. I didn't realise they had auxillery pumps either??! Crafty germans! Can you let me know how you get on with the heater issue as mine seems to have the same problem? always hot. Cheers and good luck! Mike Edited by 540 V8
	Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard

Crispy-d Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member I Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130	Post Options Post Reply Quote Crispy-d Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26-May-2009 at 21:40
	Hi Mike! Yes, I thought that anyway and so phoned up BMW this morning and ordered a whole new unit. Good job too as they only come as one piece anyway! My Father instructed me not to spend so much money on such an old car and get one from a scrappy - as far as I'm concerned that's why these cars keep ending UP in the scrappy as the devils that own them don't look after them properly!! I change my coolant once a year and am happy to see the insides of the pipes all clear, but the plastic cap only had the tiniest of cracks yet it was spilling coolant like it was allergic to it?! Should be here Thursday - so all in all an easy job. Out with the old one and in with the new and it should be good for another 153k miles :) Regarding the luke warm air con situation - I trailed through what must have been hundreds of posts on a foreign forum and found someone with the same problem who had fixed his. Simple: he replaced the heater valves (the unit with the solenoids on to which is attached this auxiliary pump (which drives hot coolant through the heater core when the engine is idling and pressure is too low to heat the cabin up sufficiently!!)) You can tap the solenoids gently and that works for a bit but ideally you should just buy a new unit for that. Admittedly I'm not, but then I'm thinking of spending my �202 + VAT on something else this week, and what with the cost of the pump I'm going to carry on tapping it for another couple of weeks! Bit hypocritical, I know, but it can't damage the engine in anyway so I think it can wait. So just try tapping the solenoids with engine running and blowers going (on cold) and you should either here a click or at least feel the air go cold (for once!!). Or if they're completely seized then it won't do anything. But from what this other chap says, even if tapping them works for a bit, get a new one as it will run perfectly after that. I'll do it when I get my air con recharged and replace my micofilter, then it'll be all ready to go for the summer! Regards, Crispin
	BMW E39 M5 - 2002 Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989

jetsetwilly2000 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Really Senior Member II Joined: 10-December-2003 Location: Cambridgeshire Status: Offline Points: 701	Post Options Post Reply Quote jetsetwilly2000 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 31-May-2009 at 10:13
	You can also strip the heater valves and clean them. I think I posted about this ages ago, I'll see if I can find it, but from memory they're fairly fiddly and the windings are very fragile, but I resoldered a broken one of mine and cleaned them of gunk and that fixed my heater issues, and an hour of fiddling is worth £200 in my book...
	E90 M3 DCT, E46 330d Touring, VW T5 wannabecamper Previous: Disco 3 TDV6, 2x E34 540i6, E34 535iS

Crispy-d Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member I Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130	Post Options Post Reply Quote Crispy-d Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05-June-2009 at 14:36
	Well the pump's all in and working - no more leaks, which is good! But as for the heater valves... I can't actually get them apart/off as the six little torx bolts that hold it down are completely rusted and although I managed to get 5 of them loose (somehow) the 6th I just can't get to. I managed to cut a slot into the heads of the other five to get a screwdriver in, but this last one is inaccessible as far as saws go and I don't think a chisel will do it. So I had to do the others back up and leave it. I'm getting the AirCon regassed next week, or soon after, and so at least it'll blow a little colder. But really I think I'm going to have to splash out on a new heater solenoid/valve unit Have also FINALLY bought my non-return valve (PCV) thing, so I will attempt that at some point which should mean that other than the heater valves, everything will be working!!!
	BMW E39 M5 - 2002 Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989

Crispy-d Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member I Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130	Post Options Post Reply Quote Crispy-d Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11-February-2010 at 00:17
	Rather than start a new topic I thought I'd dig up an old one in case anyone is searching in future for AirCon/heater related problems. As an update to the above, I thought I'd treat the car a bit and buy a brand new heater/water valve and although it cost a small fortune for what it is, it's made a hell of a difference!! Nice fresh, cool air :) And the the climate control system seems to be working which is good! All I need now is to get the AirCon up and running and it'll be perfect!! As far as the AirCon goes, it'll want a recharge/service and once that's done I can try it and see if it works. I managed to pick up a brand new genuine BMW (Denso) magnetic clutch for the compressor off ebay last week - they are ~�240 from BMW and I got it for �10.76 delivered ;) If it turns out that mine works and I don't need , but one of you does then PM me and I'll happily pass on my savings to you. During my busy week of pampering my car and running in and out of BMW every couple of hours (think they know me by name now...) I also replaced the Microfilter which really isn't as big a deal as I have seen it described! Yes, it's a little fiddly but very doable. Not only do the temperature controls work now, but it doesn't smell like the air's coming through a decomposed rat fur mesh and it's actually quite pleasant to run it with the recirculation thing on! Amongst other little things I also replaced the petrol flap hinge so that it actually stays open now and I can rest the cap in the bracket ;) I also replaced the driver's door brake (check strap) as that had broken inside the door and was making an awful noise. That was a fiddly job and �22 just for the part but was still worth it. Then there was lower oil sump/pan. I thought I'd actually go ahead and take it off, having bought a gasket for it in anticipation. Well, here's what I found (surprise, surprise): So the effort of undoing and then retightening the 5000 bolts that hold the oil pan on was worth it! From what I've read, 'only' three bolts isn't too bad. So I now have a retightened oil pump, nice new gasket and clean oil pan - but to be fair there was no sludge at all in the bottom, which was nice to see. I even bought shiny new number plates ;) and have also removed the purple film since the photo! So all in all, apart from the need to recharge the AirCon I reckon everything's tip top in (and on) my car now so I'm pretty pleased :) ONE last point though, which is actually a question to anyone out there with dual zone climate control - when you change the temperature or the air flow, does your car emit funny squelching/buzzing noises from the glove box area on the passenger side? Mine does and I'm worried that maybe it is a stepper motor, of which there are supposed to be 10 all over the place. So why is the noise only coming from the passenger side?? Hopefully it's normal - it seems to be working so I have high hopes but I thought I'd ask just in case! It's been a while since I've been on here because there's been nothing wrong with the car since the auxiliary water pump, so I thought I'd concentrate on work! But I popped back in to check up on the forum and to give an update. And now with Mike's car being poorly I'll likely be sticking around and checking up more often! All the best and hope you're all well, Crispin Edited by Crispy-d
	BMW E39 M5 - 2002 Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989

bulletproofbomb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Advanced Newbie Joined: 21-November-2008 Location: Cambridgeshire Status: Offline Points: 34	Post Options Post Reply Quote bulletproofbomb Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11-February-2010 at 12:57
	I MUST check my oil pump! A scary greeting, but at least it was still attached. Re. Climate control- Mine makes a similar noise (though not squelchy), and I think that is usual to be only in the passenger side for me anyway. Yes, lots of motors!
	e34 540iT 6-speed

Crispy-d Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member I Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130	Post Options Post Reply Quote Crispy-d Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11-February-2010 at 13:46
	Ah thanks bulletproofbomb! That's put my mind at rest then. I suppose it's more of a rapid clicking noise than a squelch but I was very tired when I wrote that post! Yes, I don't know how many miles your car's done but it's worth checking those bolts!
	BMW E39 M5 - 2002 Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989

jetsetwilly2000 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Really Senior Member II Joined: 10-December-2003 Location: Cambridgeshire Status: Offline Points: 701	Post Options Post Reply Quote jetsetwilly2000 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11-February-2010 at 13:58
	Mine also creaks and clicks, most of all when I switch off, and mostly from the glovebox area. Ive got to do my oil pump bolts too! Well, as soon as it's spring and I can lie in the road without freezing...
	E90 M3 DCT, E46 330d Touring, VW T5 wannabecamper Previous: Disco 3 TDV6, 2x E34 540i6, E34 535iS

540 V8 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bavarian-Board Contributor Lick my badge Joined: 07-December-2005 Location: Running the asylum Status: Offline Points: 2280	Post Options Post Reply Quote 540 V8 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11-February-2010 at 20:23
	That reminds me, I mst check my pump bolts too. Mine had a new block at 70k and is now on 160k so I hopd after only 90k the bolts should still be in place, will I be ok waiting till next service or should I check ASAP? Mike P.S. As I'm on a tight budget, can anyone tell me what a sump gasket costs?
	Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension. E28 525e auto-Standard

Crispy-d Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member I Joined: 07-May-2008 Location: Ipswich/Bristol Status: Offline Points: 130	Post Options Post Reply Quote Crispy-d Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 11-February-2010 at 20:34
	My sump gasket was �16.26 + VAT, so �18.70 from the dealer. I reckon I was driving around like a hooligan for thousands and thousands of miles with my pump rattling around - from what I understand and can see, the pump can't actually fall off as a couple of the bolts are prevented from coming out completely by the block wall. So at worst, it'll be loose but should still function. Mine wasn't actually loose as the rest of the bolts remain quite tight - only three had loosened and fallen out. That's just from things I've read though - personally, I will be taking my sump off again in the summer to check them again plus I will try to tighten the pump chain which was a little slack. I couldn't get the tension adjuster to work, looked like the hexagon bolt in the Bentley Manual was missing from mine...? It also says use new bolts, but I didn't and I didn't use any locktite either. But like I said, I'll be having another go as it's quite an easy job and quite an important component :) But if you want to wait till the next service I don't see how it'll make much difference.
	BMW E39 M5 - 2002 Land Rover 110 4.0 V8 - 1986 BMW E39 530d Manual SE - 2001 BMW E34 540i 6 Speed Manual - 1995 Volvo S90 3.0 CD - 1997 Volvo 460 Si Turbo - 1995 Volvo 340 GL - 1989