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smarterchick View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05-October-2009 at 07:04
Hi, I've had the same kind of stopping and starting experiences some have posted on here - hairy experiences at that..and the AA suggest it is the crank sensor.

My car is a 325i 1987 saloon manual gearbox. I was told the sensor was the one on the front crank Wheel which sits about 2 o'clock face on just behind the rad and fan, so I went out and bought one....daft thing is that inside the unit where the wires go there appears to be no connection whatsoever to the loom. On the face of it those wires and the sensor look like they are there just for diagnostic purposes for when some electronic plug gets put in. This is the unit which sits just by the rocker box cover towards the front of the engine compartment and has about 8-10 wires going into it...can anyone tell me what that sensor is for?

There are 2 sensors under the car sitting at the other end of the crankshaft by the flywheel showing a part number 1 710 670 - near side (UK) now could these be the sensors I'm looking for and can anyone explain which one is which as there are 2 one slightly higher than the other?

Do I replace both or just the one for no or intermitant spark?

All help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
SC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vpricey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-October-2009 at 15:48
Hi mate,

yip you are right, the one on the front of the engine at the rad is only for diagnostic purposes.

The two sensors that are in the bellhousing of the gearbox is what the Ecu uses for timing. One starts the fuel pump once the Ecu realises the engine is turning over, and the other is for the Ecu to send power to the coil.  These sensors are both the same, and the last time I bought them they were around 120quid for them, and it didn't solve my problem.

So what symptoms are you having, as I've not seen your other posts?? Have you checked for air leaks, all of the vaccum/breather pipes.

Just noticed you're having a spark problem, it'll be your ECU, the 073 ECUs are very prone to breaking, 99.9 times out of 100 it'll be that. Swap it for another 073 and it should be fine.

HTH.

Paul.


Edited by vpricey
Paul - '87 E30 325i Sport - '99 E39 M5 - '05 E53 X5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smarterchick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-October-2009 at 21:28
Thanks, you're a star...now I've spent the day trying to find a couple of those sensors and by the sounds of things it's probably just as well I didn't find them. I have a BMW (Spoof) garage near me and the guy told me that unit you tell me is for diagnostics had some kind of function and as I'd brought a new Crank Pully sensor he told me to replace the old one so I spent a couple of hours fiddling about soldering (I'm not great at it) but it's fiddly. Car still didn't start. I got another fuel relay (white box) even and replaced the old one just in case, I cleaned all the air filter, and surrounding pipes, checked all them too as this BMW guy said do that - they look okay and no noticeable leaks..so You are saying it's the ECU - forgive the expression but wassat? ( Found it- see below) and where do I find it? Any idea what one costs? Is it something I can get 2nd hand from the breaker or is it one of those parts you have to get new? ( Sorry, I rebuilt a '87 Mini and that was done with considerable help from a breakers so I'm kind of fond of getting 2nd hand if I can and it's practical to do so, plus the money situation is very very tight).

Also, this was my first posting on here, just found the site, but I'm a frequent visitor on other forums like www.consumeractiongroup.co.uk where we fight bank charges and loan agreements so I'm comfortable with forums.

Actually, whilst I have your undivided attention, those 2 sensors:

1 sensor goes into a white adaptor plug which joins the sensor to the loom just under the carb (if you can call it that), the other is a black plug . One sensor socket by the flywheel is higher than the other - can you confirm for me which sensor goes into which hole? - They are both identical as you say, but surely there must be a correct hole for each and as the AA man took them both out I want to check he has them back right as he seemed a little unsure.

Okay, just did a bit of googling and now understand what the ecu is...popped down and found it under the dashboard..Now if memory serves me right I've actually had to replace this once before many years ago now. On ebay I see they are advertised 2nd hand, but none of them have the same reference numbers as mine even though they are E30 and E reg like mine - does that matter?

Mine is Motronic0 261 200 073 and there's another number 1289 7869 too...should I match the numbers when getting one?

Any advice on what to get will be appreciated although again on memory I think the one I got before was either 2nd hand or reconditioned - would that sound right?

I really am clueless when it comes to these things


Edited by smarterchick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vpricey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-October-2009 at 15:00
Glad I could be of help, but I can't recall seeing any white plugs on the loom I have, although we both have the same one, the Motronic0 261 200 073, or and 073 ECU taken from the last 3 numbers.

These are the ones I have....



Here you can see the sensors in the side of the gearbox....






And here you can see both sensors plugged into thier plugs attached to the bracket on the side of the block.  Hope this helps.

The bottom sensor goes to the black plug and the top to the Grey plug. This might be the white plug you were on about!?

As for finding one, try on the E30zone.net as I know there has been a couple for sale on there, or on E-bay. If you still can't find one I have a spare one here that I can send you.

Paul.


Edited by vpricey
Paul - '87 E30 325i Sport - '99 E39 M5 - '05 E53 X5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smarterchick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-October-2009 at 18:32
Hey you are one kind forum user and I really thank you for this. Yes the grey plug was the one I was referring to and I've now got them in correctly. However, it WAS the ecu after all. I managed to find one by sheer chance on ebay a few minutes after it was put on sale for a 7 day auction, miracle because he hadn't put buy it now on but I emailed him and asked if he would BIN it and I offered £20 - he accepted + £5 post and I installed it today ! - That was a result I can tell you vrooom off it went! So, thank you again.

The downside is I now have an oil leak from the oil filter breather - I couldn't believe it. I'd seen the odd drop coming from under the car, but when I started up this afternoon there was a puddle on the floor. I tried to get the parts but everyone says it has to be ordered from Germany, trouble is I have a big operation to have on Tuesday afternoon which will take me out of action for at least a month as far as the car is concerned so if I could get these parts before then I could fit them. It's some kind of valve that sits on top of the oil filter housing.

BMW part Nos : 11411 265087 ; 11411 710795 ; & o7119 934635

if you have any idea where I can get them quickly then I'd be eternally grateful too.... clocks against me though, but my OH needs the car whilst I'm in hospital.

You really are a star my friend..
 


Edited by smarterchick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vpricey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-October-2009 at 13:46
Fantastic, glad it worked for you. I was so annoyed when I happened to me, I had just rebuilt the head  after the headgasket going. The car ran great for the first day or so,  then after doing an oil change it wouldn't start. I spent 3 weeks trying to fix it outside freezing with the volt meter trying to find the broken bit, 120quid on two sensors I didn't need, various other things and eventually plugged in a new ECU and she burst into life. It was great!!

As for the oil breather, is it any of these...



as the part numbers you mentioned where stange, a o-ring for the camshaft and two parts for the pressure release valve for the oil pump in the sump??

If you get the part numbers from  Real OEM and get them ordered by today you should have them by monday from the stealers. Other than that there are a  few people on the E30Zone breaking 325's down your way. Hope this helps. 
Paul - '87 E30 325i Sport - '99 E39 M5 - '05 E53 X5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smarterchick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-October-2009 at 22:11
I'm trying to upload a picture and having trouble...your one looks more like the one given to me by BMW garage, I'm going down to the dealer tomorrow and I'll find out...thanks for the diagram, got me wondering which one I have now...


Edited by smarterchick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smarterchick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2009 at 12:22
You're a born wizard - went to a BMW dealer and got my bits...your picture was the right one...brilliant. Can't thank you enough.

I'll have an oil change, no leaks, a car that starts and all less than £80

Thank you., thank you very much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vpricey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-October-2009 at 23:48
No prob, glad to help, that's what forums are for.
Paul - '87 E30 325i Sport - '99 E39 M5 - '05 E53 X5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smarterchick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-October-2009 at 23:13
Actually, before I throw this old ecu away, is there any use for them? can someone else make use of it for reprogramming or something - otherwise I'll dump it.

I fitted that oil filter breather plug and by eck that gave me some grief fitting that.

Raised the car on tripod stands, could see the plug and the circlip but you need 2 hands to get it out and three to put the new one in and there's about enough space for one hand -

For those wishing to try this the easiest way to do this was by using a G - clamp , one end over the top of the filter housing and the other under the new cap to ease the new cap with the new washer into place, but it's not easy as you need to make sure you have enough space around the top of the G Clamp adjustment end to fit the spring clip afterwards. without the G-Clamp I couldn't have done this as you cannot get the pressure from laying on your back onto the new part to compress it enough and get the circlip in place - it just seems an impossibility.

My G-clamp had a very small cup on the top of the adjustable end, about the same size as the centre  'nob' in the middle of the new cap which gave me just enough room to squeeze the new circlip in, but it was very hard and fiddly. Eventually got there. The problem is this housing has a spring inside and a needle which has to be centred, the spring forces the cap out and you are working upside down trying to keep the 3 parts together while you assemble it into the housing. The new washer which is a rubber ring makes the settling process even harder and you really need that extra push to depress the cap far enough home to find the groove in which the circlip fits. As the circlip is bigger of course whan the outer circumference not only are you trying to hold the unit in you are trying to force the circlip into the groove as well at the same time - hence the need for the extra hand....that hand is the G Clamp.

Getting the old oil filter out wasn't a bunch of laughs either and again working from the under side I remembered seeing a guy hammer a screwdriver through the old oil filter and turning it
so did that praying the one in the box waiting to be fitted was the right one.

Anyway,  all going quite well now.

Any complaints?mmm?  throttle. On the first touch of the throttle peddle the car seems just a fraction lumpy then it takes off okay. Don't have a clue why although I cleaned the distributor cap of burn on the pins, not much and nothing too corrosive so can't imagine it's the contacts in there. Cleaned all the plugs, reset gaps. No1 cylinder a little oilier than the others but I guess thats knackered rings rather than anything terminal...137,000 on the clock.

Checked all the hoses around the air filter, all okay, air filter dusty but not clogged seems clear enough around that area..

Took it out this aftenoon and ran like a baby...

Thanks I'll never use a garages advice again, I'll be back...and although I can't offer much techi advice I hope someone might learn from my experience this morning..You're right, that's what forums are about - ..sharing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vpricey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-October-2009 at 19:08
Originally posted by smarterchick smarterchick wrote:

Actually, before I throw this old ecu away, is there any use for them? can someone else make use of it for reprogramming or something - otherwise I'll dump it.


If you can find any oldskool tv repair guys who fix and solder up printed circuit  boards, see if they can find anything wrong with it, it might be a simple fix, then keep it as a spare.


Originally posted by smarterchick smarterchick wrote:

Anyway,  all going quite well now.

Any complaints?mmm?  throttle. On the first touch of the throttle peddle the car seems just a fraction lumpy then it takes off okay. Don't have a clue why although I cleaned the distributor cap of burn on the pins, not much and nothing too corrosive so can't imagine it's the contacts in there. Cleaned all the plugs, reset gaps. No1 cylinder a little oilier than the others but I guess thats knackered rings rather than anything terminal...137,000 on the clock.

Checked all the hoses around the air filter, all okay, air filter dusty but not clogged seems clear enough around that area..

Took it out this aftenoon and ran like a baby...


Try to clean out the Airflow meter and Idle control valve with Carb cleaner, and also check for air leaks.  The other thing to check is your Valve clearences. they should be 0.25mm when cold. It'll make a difference when they're spot on.
Paul - '87 E30 325i Sport - '99 E39 M5 - '05 E53 X5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smarterchick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-October-2009 at 07:21
Can you check the valve clearances with overhead cams like the old rockers on the push rod cars? Never thought of doing that. They do sound a bit 'tappety' I must admit. Done the mini I built a hundred times

I checked all the air hoses and the AA guy sprayed the carb with cleaner so I think they are okay. I'll have to leave it a month or so as I'm going to hospital today and I won't be feeling like going under the  bonnet for a while, but I'll have a go once I'm back on it...

I really appreciate your help and knowledge, makes such a pleasant change from all the guestimates I've had from gargaes and I can go off now in the knowledge the car is okay for the Other half while I'm away.

Don't worry, I'll be back in about a month.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vpricey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-October-2009 at 22:49
Yip you can do the valve clearances, they're easy to do, will post up a pic later

Hope you get well soon after hospital
Paul - '87 E30 325i Sport - '99 E39 M5 - '05 E53 X5
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