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afsar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-February-2010 at 17:39
A experienced local mechanic near my workplace has asked me
to get front wheel bearing changed. He also recommended to
get all the pads changed (front and rear). He said drag is
caused by bearing as initially anticipated by Mike. Total
bill should not exceed bearing price + labour = max £300 to
£350.

I am still thinking of DIY, is it easy if I buy proper
tools or it is a can of worm?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-February-2010 at 19:39
Depends how mechanicky you are and how much work is involved pulling the bearing.  Modren beemers might be tricksy but on mine it was just wheel off, caliper off, disc off, big nut off, hub off, new one on, etc, and  the hub/bearing just fell off once I'd undone the big nut.  Which was funny, as I'd just bought a 20ton press in preparation for the job!

One thing tho, the hub should be torqued up to something massive, way beyond most DIY torque wrenches.  I decided to guess mine but that's me.  If in doubt get it done, as getting the torque seriously wrong would knacker the bearing and possibly the axle stub.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2010 at 08:44

The E60 (and the E39) bearing comes on a stub axle with a flange connection to the steering knuckle so no need to horse up a central nut to 300+Nm as there isn't one.  Part #6 are the hub bolts which are accessed from behind the hub.  It would probably be easier to remove the strut to get to the hub bolts.  Removing the strut is more involved and you would probably need spring compressors.

Part #5 is the bearing/hub/mounting flange in the above link.

The method used here means it would be easy and therefore cheap, to install a front wheel drive hub/shaft assembly as part of the 4 wheel drive 5er which we don't get in this country.

A workshop may be able to remove it while the car is on a ramp without having to remove the strut.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-February-2010 at 10:13
Shows what I know! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03-February-2010 at 10:55
Looks quite complicated to me. I don't want to risk my life
getting under engine of a car. So will go for mechanic. The
mechanic who diagnosed this said he has not worked on E60
before so he can't quote me labour price. Can someone
please suggest me a good experienced mechanic who can do
this in a reasonable price on Saturday. Preferably in west
London area. However I can drive 10 miles around this
place.

Regards,
Afsar Imam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2010 at 15:04
Got the problem fixed by another local garage. Finally my
beautiful car is problem free again Wheel
bearing with bolts cost from BMW was £205 and paid £100 in
labour. There was very little (perhaps 1-2mm or so) play
side by side on the impacted wheel, not much but it could
have turned bad in next few hundred miles. Once old bearing
was in hand I could not feel any difference in play but
there wasn't any certain way of verifying if the bearing
was really bad or not. I went ahead and got new one
installed and no drag anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2010 at 15:07
Originally posted by Andrew Rolland Andrew Rolland wrote:

£1600 plus vat at 17.5 = £1880 ish?


What other bits are you needing doing?



I saw in the bill and 750ish was for labour itself. A real
stealership
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2010 at 15:09
Good I did not go for DIY, it was not easy given the
limited tools I have. I won't recommend DIY for this unless
you are two people and fully equipped with all sort of
tools.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-February-2010 at 15:10
Forgot to say thanks to everyone for all the advise. Input
from Mark and Andy were quite vital.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-February-2010 at 08:32

Originally posted by jetsetwilly2000 jetsetwilly2000 wrote:

Shows what I know! 

Well you aren't completely wrong.  There is a central nut which will be dogged up big style, but as the bearing assembly comes complete with mounting flange etc there is no need.  I noticed this when replacing an ABS sensor on the E39, the central dust cap that covers the central nut was loose, took it off and I could see the large nut.  Very unusual to see on a rear wheel drive cars front bearing assembly. 

You are buying a complete assembly which ultimately puts the price up but makes fitting easier.

 

Glad you got it sorted Asfar.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-February-2010 at 22:51
Upon braking on certain speed my steering vibrates up and
down. Is this a problem due to worn disc/pads or something
else?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bulletproofbomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-February-2010 at 23:14
About 55-60mph perchance?
I'd expect usual BMW front end shimmy due to worn bushes/control arms
e34 540iT 6-speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2010 at 11:09
Originally posted by bulletproofbomb bulletproofbomb wrote:

About 55-60mph perchance?I'd
expect usual BMW front end shimmy due to worn
bushes/control arms

Not sure about the speed. But as soon as I press the padel
down vibration starts (back and forth, not side to side)
and as car slows down vibration goes away. btw. what is the
part number for bushes or the arm itself which could be
culprit here?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2010 at 11:25

Look here for part numbers

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

Punch last 7 digits of your chassis number into the box next to Serial Number.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2010 at 11:35
Originally posted by Andrew Rolland Andrew Rolland wrote:

Look here for part numbers


http://www.rea
loem.com/bmw/select.do


Punch last 7 digits of your chassis number into the box
next to Serial Number.


There are so many parts in there. Could not
identify the exact ones I may need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2010 at 11:41
I guessed about your car, so you'll need to change stuff, but in this pic, it's part 12 probably, but people often do the whole arm (11).

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=NE52&mospi d=48462&btnr=31_0655&hg=31&fg=05


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2010 at 16:15
Could this have gone wrong because of the kerb impact or it
is down to fitting? Is this a common problem?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-February-2010 at 17:00
Fair wear and tear most likely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote afsar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 00:40

Sorry for the silence, I was damn busy with office work.

Anyway I managed to get wheel alignment done by a local mechanic who used Hunters hawk eye HD alignment system and I can feel some improvement in handling since then. Here is snapshot of before and after alignment data

Before:

After:

As you can see from the picture caster is not adjustable and they are not right. My car still banks to the left, not that much as before but doesn't go straight either. Local mechanic asked me to come next day so that he can see the car in detail.

Next day he ramped up the car and looked underside (cover was opened) and could not find anything wrong at all. Everything was normal to his eyes. I asked him to check for bushes and any obvious broken/worn/bent parts and he said all looks good. He also took some measurement manually and that too wasn't looking bad either. However from side of both the wheels we could clearly see the different in the caster adjustment of left hand wheel and the right hand wheel. Distance between tyre edge (treads) to the wheel arches (or wheel well) on the left hand side wheel was not equal to right hand side, hence the caster difference and banking to the left. I was told that caster is not adjustable on this model, so you need to look at the suspension and related part to make sure it is not bent/broken and start replacing these one by one to exactly ruleout the possibility of suspension problem. To me this approach sound too costly. Any other way of adjusting caster on my car? Can't imagine car having such a basic thing welded to the chasis!

Regarding shimmy I misunderstood that steering is vibrating up and down but it is not like that. Upon braking steering is rotating to left and right by a degree or so very quickly causing a rumble feel. Mechanic told me by his experience that this is due to discs, nothing else can cause this. However I have realized a very small shimmy on higher speed (60 or so) even without braking, this one is hard to notice but once you leave steering wheel on a straight road above 50mph you can see steering shimmy which goes away quickly.

Can't imagine I introduce so many trouble to myself by just deciding to drive in snow. What kinda car BMW is making, wheels aren't man enough to take this much of snow. What a stupid car!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 08:53

I can't see your pics on the work pc but I'll look later on.

The work pc is also playing up with that link too.  Was that a four wheel alignment or just front done?

Caster is effectively the angle in which the strut is mounted, this has nothing to do with the distance between tyre edges and wheel arches.  The measurements you are describing can be altered by toe in/out settings and positive/negative camber adjsutments.

Caster may be adjustable, I'm not 100% sure.  You might get an effect of altering the caster angle by rotating the bolt/nut heads on the wishbones. The bolts heads may have offset washers, I know the rear suspension does and that is how it is set up.  But doing that may just alter the camber.

 

Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!

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Previous
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