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    Posted: 24-February-2010 at 20:31

As a few of you have read, I recently had a few jobs done on the car to get her through the MOT which has now passed thank goodness! But I have a couple of new issues which may be as a result of having the engine loom unplugged and the intake manifold off as well as various vacuum, breather and fuel pipes.

One thing I have noticed since everything going back together is a hissing noise inside the car coming from the front passenger area behind the dashboard. The weird thing is, when at idle you can hear it clearly but it seems when I accelerate, the hissing noise gets less the harder I accelerate! so if I pull away gently, the hissing noise quietens slightly but if I floor it, the noise completely disappears. I cannot smell anything strange so I'm not sure it's a gas leak from the aircon (but the system is empty and doesn't run anyway) the only thing I can think of is some kind of vacuum escaping? I cannot fathom out what might be there that would use a vacuum nor can I feel any difference in performance (suggesting no loss of vacuum) or anything different from when it first went in.

Also, second issue, I did have a warning come up a few times intermittently which was DIP BEAM - LICENCE PLATE LAMP - TAIL LIGHT - BRAKE LIGHTS. Some of these came upon their own, mainly the licence plate or brake light ones but I did also have all at the same time a couple of journeys. I only had the brake light one come up yesterday and today. Before I left work this evening, I changed the brake light bulb as it seems I only get the problem after pressing the brakes but not always straight away. I thought there may be a dodgy filament that was back feeding and causing a bad signal bringing on all sorts of issues. Both bulbs looked a bit blackened and the filaments looked burnt though they still worked but I replaced them anyway. Half way home after several presses of the brakes, the BRAKE LIGHTS message came up again but when I had a car sitting behind me, I pressed the pedal several times and I could see the red glow coming on and off so I know they are working.

As the rear of the car hasn't been touched and the problem has only been since having everything at the front apart I'm wondering what could cause such a thing to happen.

All pointers and suggestions welcomed please!

One final thing, I want to replace the loom for the crank sensor from the plug at the sensor right back to the pins on the ECU plug. I have asked a guy at BMW and he said he'll need a part number off the plug to match it up? Sounds bizarre to me because I can look terminals and pins up for our vehicles though I have had a look on realoem and come to the same conclusion. Would anyone know or know how to find these part numbers without me having to take the plug apart? Also before I go searching, anyone know where exactly the crank sensor is on the M60 engine? I have a feeling it's at about 10 o'clock if you had the engine out and flywheel facing you?

Cheers

Mike 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote straight_6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-February-2010 at 23:50

Mike happy to see you got the car back on the road

Reference the warning lights message, I had a similar problem on my 1997 E39 touring. It would throw up "check fog lights", "check brake lights" when they would be working. Mine would normally come up whilst driving the car throughout the journey a couple of times. Also it would make a "bong" sound when i'd switch the car off. Like yourself I checked the lamps and everything was fine.

I had a mobile mechanic come and and connect his diagnostic machine to the ECU. He called up the faults and all the above where listed. He asked me if I was getting the "bong" sound when i would switch the car off. I confirmed this with him and he proceeded to clear the faults. He done a through check of the faults and once the car had been reset it ran fine. Since then, touch wood I havent had any more electrical faults.

What i'm trying to say is that if you havnt already done so, get a mate to check your ECU for any fault codes and it may be a good idea just to clear the ECU from any non related faults and see if that brings any joy. Its the cheapest place to start. The electrics on the Beemers dont improve with time either. A mate of mine who works for BMW still says they get loads of E46, E60, and later model cars comming in from customers complaining of cars syaing there brake lights arent working when infact they do. Dodgie contacts or something he said.

Sorry for the long reply and again if this hasnt been any help.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew Rolland Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 09:25

Tail gate wiring loom wearing at the hinge? 

Poor battery condition can throw up a lot of weird electrical faults.  How's the battery?

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 13:02
Maybe this is what you meant, but I'm sure the CPS is down the front of the engine somewhere - have a poke about round the pulleys.  I remember it being pretty easy to spot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crispy-d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 22:48

Regarding the hissing sound - from what you describe it sounds like a definite vacuum leak to me. When the throttle's closed the vacuum's at its greatest, so the hissing sound would be loud. Flooring the accelerator will take the vacuum away and so the hissing sound would disappear!

I hope I'm wrong, but from what I've read in the past the intake manifold gasket makes a loud hissing sound when it's leaking and the noise could well be coming in through the firewall.

As for the electrics, as others have said I still it would be best to just get someone to plug the car into a diagnostic machine and get it all reset and checked out.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 22:50

The crank sensor reads the teeth off the flywheel so definatley down the back. I did have a look today and I think I can see it on the opposite side to where I said, more like 2 o'clock rather than 10. I can see a shielded wire going down to about that area.

On another note, I had a fiddle with fuses and the LKM module as well as relays and plugs around that area. I basically replaced a few fuses on the lights and re-seated the LKM and all the relays. The problem didn't re-present itself on the way home. It didn't do it on the way to work either but then I didn't have my lights on which seems to be the common denominator. I guess I'll just wait and see. I have heard of clearing fault codes can sometimes clear faults too. Perhaps it's worth a try too.

Still can't identify the hissing sound though. Weird!

Mike

 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 22:54
Originally posted by Crispy-d Crispy-d wrote:

Regarding the hissing sound - from what you describe it sounds like a definite vacuum leak to me. When the throttle's closed the vacuum's at its greatest, so the hissing sound would be loud. Flooring the accelerator will take the vacuum away and so the hissing sound would disappear!

I hope I'm wrong, but from what I've read in the past the intake manifold gasket makes a loud hissing sound when it's leaking and the noise could well be coming in through the firewall.

As for the electrics, as others have said I still it would be best to just get someone to plug the car into a diagnostic machine and get it all reset and checked out.

Well it was a thought of mine but if it's losing vacuum, it would more than likely run really rough. You also cannot hear it when the bonnet is up and you listen in to the engine!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crispy-d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 23:00

Hmmm... you'd definitely hear it with the bonnet open. Well I'll have to have a look at mine tomorrow and see if I can find any pipes around that area.

Also I think refridgerant is pretty nasty stuff so you don't really want that leaking into you passenger compartment :)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-February-2010 at 23:06
Originally posted by Crispy-d Crispy-d wrote:

Hmmm... you'd definitely hear it with the bonnet open. Well I'll have to have a look at mine tomorrow and see if I can find any pipes around that area.

Also I think refridgerant is pretty nasty stuff so you don't really want that leaking into you passenger compartment :)

It's definatley not refridgerant because my aircon has been empty for about 2 years now!

I've had a look for pipes. I can see vacuum pipes on the engine side but nothing in the footwell or glovebox. The car seems no different than before so whatever it is doesn't seem to be detrimental to the performance or running of the engine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-February-2010 at 10:26
Mike have a look at this

http://www.e38.org/e32/M60EngineSpecs.pdf

The crankshaft position sensor is part 16

The hissing is weird!  Crispy voiced my thoughts exactly - as you've had the manifold off it's bound to be a vacuum leak - but I would have thought it would be audible under the bonnet.  Just for a double check you could try spraying brake cleaner around and seeing if the idle picks up?...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-February-2010 at 00:43

Cheers for the diagram, as I thought, the sensor is at 10 o'clock but a bugger to see.

As for the hissing, when I got to work the other day I put my head down in the passenger footwell and the hissing sound seems like its coming from behind the glovebox. I thought at first it may be the speaker hissing but I pu my ear to it and could hear it coming further up inside the footwell. I cannot get my head far enough up inside and when I open the glovebox it doesn't get any louder but it's definatley coming from around that area. I can see wires behind there but no pipes. I have had the bonnet up when idling and I cannot hear anything different from before I had the manifold off.

I notice there is a master cylinder on the bulkhead which I assume is for the brakes? As the brakes are servo assisted, could it be an air leak from here as it's in the right area. I haven't had a listen in this area under the bonnet yet as I've only just thought of it but I will and see if I can hear anything down there.

Confused!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 10:49
Originally posted by 540 V8 540 V8 wrote:

Cheers for the diagram, as I thought, the sensor is at 10 o'clock but a bugger to see.



Thing is, it's at the front of the engine, not the back.

I think the glovebox comes off with just a few screws, so might well be worth whipping it out and seeing what you can hear.  Do the brakes feel any different? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bulletproofbomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 13:03
As JSW says- It's at the front.
I saw a posting somewhere regarding that pulley- I think it may be a composite item (as in harmonic-balancer style) and if it is on the way out then one part will wobble excessively or randomly, causing an erratic signal to the CPS.
It may not be obviously worn out, but worth checking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 20:21

It's at the front? Ok, I didn't realise! they are usually at the back, I stand corrected!!

Should be easier to see the wires then hopefully.

I thought I was being paranoid but my brakes have felt a little different but I thought that may be because of the new pads bedding in. They work fine but sometimes it seems the pedal feels a tad different, sometimes harder and sometimes a little softer. You are worrying me now! Maybe I should get someone to have a look.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 20:46

Anyone have diagrams or can tell me where the vacuum pipes for the brakes are routed? At least this way I can check them all. I just wonder if where all the manifold, pipes and wires are routed, one of the vacuum pipes got disturbed or trapped when everything was replaced.

I know what I'll be doing at lunchtime tomorrow!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crispy-d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 20:48

I had a look at mine today and it's easy enough to see the crank sensor and to get to it - there's a large, toothed wheel behind the main pulley on the crank on the front of the engine and the sensor is at 10 O'Clock if you're looking in from the front of the car.

If I were you and could find the time I would trace all the vacuum pipes going to and from the manifold and as Jetset said just spray brake cleaner around with the engine switched on to find any leaks.

Really, to save yourself all this worry you could just get it looked at by a proper BMW technician. Then again I understand it's expensive and throwing cash at it might not be an option just yet!

It could just be a disturbed vacuum line or the manifold gasket (or crack!!) is still leaking and although you can't hear it over the engine it might be directing the hiss straight back at the firewall, which could be why you're hearing it so clearly inside. If you've got good lambda sensors then the engine will still run with a small intake leak, but would obviously not help the idle.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 21:04

I hear what you are saying crispy but the guy who fixed my car will feel guilty enough of causing another issue so as I've paid him hard earned cash, no doubt he'll feel obliged to rectify the problem. At the end of the day, I know some cars have their differences but essentially a car is a car so a mechanic should be able to sort things out, might just take a bit longer than someone who is a specialist. Anyway, the last e34 rolled off the production line in '94/'95 How many technicians who work for BMW now have any experience of them!!

At my place we have a good retention of technicians but only 3 out of the 15 will have experienced vehicles over 16 years old and one of them is out technical specialist who just gets involved in the hardcore problems/electrics etc so only 2 of them would work on a vehicle that old. If I drove my car to BMW tomorrow I will see from the look on their faces they'll be thinking "What the F*** is that doing in here!"

Anyway, I'll set about checking over the car tomorrow and let you know of my findings.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crispy-d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-March-2010 at 21:24

Hi, I noticed you had posted while I was writing my last post! I've just been looking for diagrams but can't find any at the moment, at least not of our engine bays. I also seem to remember my brake booster being on the driver's side but I could well be wrong!

That's strange what you say about your dealer - perhaps we're a bit behind times here in Suffolk but they are always happy to see me going in to see them and bug them with questions (considering I give them very little money other than for parts, for which they normally give me a 10% discount anyway!) and the technician I usually talk to is a mature chap who's worked with BMW for over 20 years now, so he says. The way he talks about my car without even looking at it though I believe him!

The specialist I mentioned earlier has just one technician and he started at BMW in the late '80s and so is also very clued up. Then my local mechanic who I entrust all the jobs that I can't do to worked at both Volvo and BMW throughout the '90s and so has always been perfect for me! Perhaps I'm in a lucky position but I wouldn't use anyone else.

I have, in the past taken my car to other garages when my mechanic's busy to ask for advice and frankly they didn't have a clue. Yes, they are mechanics, but my brother-in-law is a lecturer and trains mechanics and I've seen what he teaches and is in the syllabus.....! I'll say no more, but following a manual when you have a good set of tools is not a difficult task and that's what I try to do now! Having someone that really knows a specific car not only saves time (as you did suggest) but also will often result in correct diagnosis and, more often than not, will save you money. I love my brother-in-law like my own syblings, but I wouldn't let him touch my car :)

Still, your chap's started it so you might as well let him finish! I will have my glovebox out tomorrow as I'm looking for a ZV module to plug a keyless entry/alarm system into and so will poke around for anything that looks like a vacuum pipe! Best of luck for tomorrow!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 540 V8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-March-2010 at 17:00

Well guys, top job yet again. As suggested, I checked the running the afore mentioned crank pulley and when I shone a light on it, it is not running true at all. If you were to look at it straight on, it would run ever so slightly oval causing the distance rom the CPS to the pulley teeth to be irregular. It's quite obvious to see so it's most certainly my revving problem but I'm now thinking that it may be the cause of my misfire too. When you see it running, the vibration rhythm seems to coinside with the timing of the misfire.

Now for the bads news, it's a dealer part only and comes in at a bargain price of £281 + VAT

I simply cannot afford that amount now so it looks like a decent second hand one will have to do.

PM coming your way bulletproof!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jetsetwilly2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-March-2010 at 17:38
Interesting!  That's a scary price for a wee pulley tho! 

Hope you get a good one, let us know how you get on.  I'm off to shine a torch on mine now!


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