Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Technical & Model Specific Forums > BMW 3 Series
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Stereo/speaker advice
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

Forum LockedStereo/speaker advice

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
328i View Drop Down
Senior Member I
Senior Member I
Avatar

Joined: 03-August-2004
Location: West London
Status: Offline
Points: 134
Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stereo/speaker advice
    Posted: 08-June-2005 at 06:23

I'm after a louder set of speakers as mine, which appear to be standard always start to crackle if I have my stereo up. Cannot have it any louder than 4 on the display. Stereo is a Sony Minidisc head unit 4x 50W output & is fine. Is it worth me changing my speakers all round & if so which ones & how much? Or should I look into one of those sub or amp things to go in the boot? My car has the 8 speaker SE stereo setup.

Dean.

2001 540i Sport, Silver, Black Leather
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-June-2005 at 13:21
The Sony headunit, in common with most car audio, rates its outputs at 50w...But that isn't RMS (true power rating), but is maximum power...Equating to a fairly paltry 12.5w RMS/ch

If you need or want volume, you will need more power: Ergo an external (probably 4ch) amp is what you need...Each channel driving one corner.

However, although you can get a decent amp (90w/ch RMS) for around £100 from www.allyourbass.co.uk
(look at the V16 or V19 models) you will need to beef up the power supply as these units draw (potentially) over 31 amps @ 12V!

While you are doing that, you might as well install some better speaker cable to avoid power loss in the leads.
Now it is worth considering if your standard speakers (and head unit) are up to the job...
For speakers, if they are rated at less than 50w/ch RMS (200w Max power) you stand a very good chance of playing catch with the cones!
For between £50 - £200 a pair you can get a decent set of 2-way components...Probably they will fit as direct replacements.

If you listen to music with any sort of bass, then consider a subwoofer, too...Firstly, you will then get a proper bass response...Secondly, because the bass is the most power hungry frequencies and you are routing those directly to a dedicated speaker and amp channel, the other speakers have an easier life, will sound better (more relaxed and effortless) and the amps driving them will also have a easier job and draw less current as a result...

Personally, I would (and have done in all 3 of my current vehicles) go for a 4ch (or 3 ch) amp...with a boxed sub in the boot and a good pair of 2-way components for the front, leaving a cheaper (or standard) pair of rear speakers as occasional fills...
The front speakers are driven off 2 seperate amp channels (one left, one right) fed from the front pre-out of the head unit and the sub is driven from the other 2 channels of the 4 channel amp, bridged (for more power) and also supplied from the same phono feed from the head unit...
The rear speakers are left to be driven from the head unit's own internal amp..Which now has an easier time as the levels are lower (to amintain a good front stereo image) and there is only one pair of speakers, not 2.
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
bmw325tds View Drop Down
Really Senior Member I
Really Senior Member I


Joined: 05-February-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 01:05

Having had many different set ups in cars (inlculding up to 12 channels of amplication running off an active crossover), I can say without doubt that unless you listen to music reaaaaally loud, then the head unit will be more than enough - I have an Alpine in mine with the same rating, and it's fine.

The best upgrade you can make is to the speakers - the OE ones are, well rubish to say the least.  You would need to do them all - i take it you have the 3-way setup in the front, which you can ditch for a component 2 way system (5 1/4" in the footwell, tweeters mounted on the dash).  For the rear, you can buy adapters that allow fitment of 6x9's which will give you a bit more depth to the sound.

I can recommend Magnet as a good make (that doesn't have rip off prices like the usual fair from Sony, Alpine, Kenwood etc).

I also added a JBL Active Sub to the boot of my car, to firm up the bass alot (although it doesn't make a massive amount of difference TBH!)

Whatever you do, don't drive some speakers off an external amp, and some off the head unit - this will confuse the soundstage, and you will get into all sorts of time delay / phase related hell!

Carl

Ford Focus 1.8TDdi Estate
Ford Focus 1.8TDdi
Porsche 944 Turbo

BM's gone, but maybe only temporary!
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 03:52
lol....

Firstly, I'm a sound engineer (I have and use PA systems up to 50Kw) and used to work in the HiFi industry as a Product Manager designing speakers, amongst other things, so I speak with a little experience...

Time delays are inevitable in a car, regardless of where the speakers are driven from....Hence it is always best to have just ONE pair of speakers in the same vertical plane at the front of the car....

However, since the distance between the front and rear speakers is minimal even in the longest vehicle, the delay is also minimal and in any case will vary from front to rear seat and also depending on where your seat is positioned. Personally, I doubt you would notice, but you can get a DSP (Behringer Shark) that has time correction, I believe...

Phase and cancellation will be a problem no matter what you do due to reflections off the glass (especially) but any internal surface willl effect the properties of the sound...

But, hey, why not go down to a decent Car Audio Dealer and ask to listen to some of their demo cars or ask to hear the customer cars they have built....
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
Peter Fenwick View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-August-2003
Location: Lost somewhere in time...
Status: Offline
Points: 6484
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 04:56

My alpine head unit has a function so that you can correct for the different distance each speaker is from you. Never bothered using it though.

As a starting point I would replace the speakers for better ones. I went for JBL and have been pleased with the sound quality.

The biggest problem I had was the tweeters in the doors. I didn't want to leave redundant speakers in the car, which would have happened if I had mounted my JBL ones in the dash, so I had to make adaptors so that they could be mounted in the original door positions. This was a real b****r and the finsihed item is not half as good as I would have hoped, in terms of appearance anyway. Why does no one make something 'off the shelf' for this purpose?

With respect to amps, make sure you want the extra volume before goimg down this road. I installed an Alpine 4 chanel amp which looks the biz in the boot but gets interference from some where. It took so long to get the damn thing in I really couldn't be bothered spending ages messing around trying to source the cause of the problem, so I just turned the gain down. Great except it is now no louder than the head unit was.

IMO more trouble than it was worth, especially since wiring the damn thing up was a nightmare.

 

Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel.
Back to Top
owenw View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar

Joined: 11-December-2004
Location: Craggy Island
Status: Offline
Points: 556
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 05:54
Tried setting up the time delay using the i-Personalise page on the Alpine website. The sound seemed worse afterwards, with the focus point somewhere off to the left and behind my head. Might, give it another go now the amp is installed.

I put in a pair of JBL 6 x9's which are streets ahead of the standard Nokia rubbish in the back shelf! Might upgrade to Infinities at some point.

Installing an amp is a very painful job, especially if you're not used to messing with cars. Routing the cables along the transmission tunnel was bad enough, but finding a route into the engine bay was tricky.

Peter, where did you mount the amp? I was going to bolt it to the seat-back then discovered some bolts to the left of the spare wheel under a plastic cover. Built an L-bracket and now the amp is tucked away nicely between the wheel arch and tail light cover.
OwenW - E36 318is
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 06:22
Peter: Your amp "buzzes" because it is installed poorly...

Check that the earth reference is the same between all components (head unit, amp(s) and any other components such as capacitors and aerials) with a decent, accurate multimeter.

Then ensure that the signal cables are a) suitable, double-screened ones and b) are not any where close to power cables in the sills/transmission tunnel...Where it is unavoidable that they cross, wrap the signal leads in tin foil and make the cross-over as close to right angles as possible.

You *can* get proprietry fit replacement speakers (go to a decent dealer) but it is always better to choose the components and have the fitting made to be suitable both in appearance and fit for the vehicle...Again, a decent fitter will do the job properly with ply or mdf backing panel to prevent vibrations and maximise stiffness and sound quality.
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 06:37
Owenw: putting big speakers in the rear shelf is good for bass but bad for stereo imaging unless the ones in the front are also at least as good.

Imaging should be at the front, really, so best to put best speakers and most power in the front locations
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
neileg View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar

Joined: 20-July-2004
Location: Northumberland
Status: Offline
Points: 638
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 07:30

Mmm...

I've read this thread and there's lots of good advice. I'm not as experienced as Fushion Julz but I know a bit.

However, what I can state categorically from practical experience is that a pair of 6x9s in proprietory adapters in the back shelf is the single most cost effective change you can make. I had a pair of Sony 3 ways in my cupboard so they cost me nothing but would have cost about £40 and the adapters cost £20 mail order. These hooked up to my 35 watt per channel Blaupunkt a treat.

I know Peter spent some time fitting new tweeters in his doors. I had a pair of Pioneer component tweeters and tried them before fitting (big lump of blutak!). I couldn't hear any difference from the standard Nokia tweeters so I din't bother installing them.



Edited by neileg
Cheers, Neil
Back to Top
Peter Fenwick View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-August-2003
Location: Lost somewhere in time...
Status: Offline
Points: 6484
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 10:37

Owen,

I mounted the amp on a board at the back of the boot which goes vertically down from the the top of the seat back.

Fushion Julz,

I got expsive RCA cables and spent ages making sure none of them went anywhere near the power cables. I started down the track of checking the earths and gave up. I have spoken to a lot of people and there are so many different things that could cause it and I simply didn't have the time to go through everything.

When you say check the earth reference between components, do you mean see if there is a voltage difference between any of them?

Also I would disagree with the poorly installed comment....Big Smile

I have installed amplifiers in four other cars and had no problems. Not only that but they were much cheaper amps and much cheaper RCA cables etc. I don't think it's a case of poorly installed, more a case of the BMW being a difficult car to install and amp in.

 



Edited by Peter Fenwick
Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel.
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 12:15
Well, I've installed amps and systems in all my vehicles...A Nissan 200SX S13 was the hardest (Jap cars always are) and 80s Jag Micro-wire can be a problem, too....

There are a few things to check:
1) the earth reference...The resistance between the earth of each component (including the aerial...most important as it corrodes fastest) must be in the order of milliohms...Then compare them all to the negative on the battery...should be also milliohms. Anything more and you WILL get noise...Also, in extreme cases, the welds in the floorpan can heat up and crack (you'll need many Kw of amp power for that to start happening, though)

2) does the noise increase with engine speed? If so it might be poorly RF protected alternator or magnetic pick-ups...These can be individually suppressed with capacitors.

3) does the noise increase if any electrical equipment is turned on? If so, the problem might be poor earths at the equipment (wiper, heater motors are the worst culprits) and this needs to be rectified at source.
If the noise is worse when the equipment used is switched via a relay (cooling fan, etc) and is brief in nature it might be a poor earth at the fuse box!

4) finally check you have isolated the amp case from the screws/bolts that fix the board to the parcel shelf or bodywork...It is unlikely, but possible, that the case is poorly earth-referenced with the negative terminal on the input strip!

I assure you that a decent install (or installer) will eliminate the noise!
Obviously, I haven't seen your amp or install, but I have installed some very big systems in a huge variety of vehicles, over the years (including a 10Kw system with Phillips amps, Clarion Head units, Rockford speakers and Monster Cable in a Chrysler Van) and have always manged to eliminate all the noise...Sometimes it has been a hassle, but a methodical approach always succeeds...
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 12:21
Oh, meant to say: BMWs are actually one of the easier vehicles to install in...
And forgot to say that it might be worth trying resistor spark plugs if you haven't already got them....

Finally: It is your (or any individuals' choice) as to what, if anything, they install as after-market hifi in a car. But the sky is the limit, price wise...IMHO, a £2000 head-unit or £5000 amplifier (yes, they do exist) can be just as, or more, sensitive to noise than the £100 head unit or £200 amp from the local Halfords!
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
owenw View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar

Joined: 11-December-2004
Location: Craggy Island
Status: Offline
Points: 556
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 13:52
thanks for the tips fusion julz
OwenW - E36 318is
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 15:05
no problems

But it's Fushion (with an H)

;)
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
Peter Fenwick View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-August-2003
Location: Lost somewhere in time...
Status: Offline
Points: 6484
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 15:11

Originally posted by Fushion Julz Fushion Julz wrote:

...A Nissan 200SX S13 was the hardest (Jap cars always are)


The last car I installed an amp in was a Nissan Primera.

Originally posted by Fushion Julz Fushion Julz wrote:



2) does the noise increase with engine speed? If so it might be poorly RF protected alternator or magnetic pick-ups...These can be individually suppressed with capacitors.

It does increase with engine speed which is why I tried an individual suppressor on the alternator. This didn't cause any improvement. I got it from halfords. It was a capacitor that I connected between the smaller wire from the alternator and an earth.


It doesn't get worse when any other equipment is turned on and it is well isolated since it is fixed to a board which is attatched to the bodywork using a wooden frame.

Originally posted by Fushion Julz Fushion Julz wrote:



I have always manged to eliminate all the noise...Sometimes it has been a hassle, but a methodical approach always succeeds...

This is the problem, I just don't have the time to go through every possible cause. On top of this I have to work on my drive way. 

Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel.
Back to Top
owenw View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar

Joined: 11-December-2004
Location: Craggy Island
Status: Offline
Points: 556
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 15:28

Originally posted by Fushion Julz Fushion Julz wrote:

no problems

But it's Fushion (with an H)

;)

Oh yeah so it is! 

Where did you get the nickname?

OwenW - E36 318is
Back to Top
Fushion Julz View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-May-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 400
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09-June-2005 at 19:33
@ Peter....Perhaps the capacitor wasn't on the correct wire/tab or perhaps something else is causing the problem...But it will be fixable when you've got the time...

@ Owenw...The Fushion bit is the name of the soundsystem/lighting business that I run...
We also do our own nights and events called "Fushion" (amongst other names).
When I DJ I do so as "Fushion Julz" Julz being my name (short for Julian)..

Phew!
1987 E30 M3
1996 E36 328i SE 4dr (Manual)
1992 E34 525iX Touring...SOLD
Back to Top
neileg View Drop Down
Really Senior Member II
Really Senior Member II
Avatar

Joined: 20-July-2004
Location: Northumberland
Status: Offline
Points: 638
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2005 at 11:56

Originally posted by Peter Fenwick Peter Fenwick wrote:

It does increase with engine speed which is why I tried an individual suppressor on the alternator. This didn't cause any improvement. I got it from halfords. It was a capacitor that I connected between the smaller wire from the alternator and an earth.

You need the larger wire. The small one is the lead to the warning lamp. The larger one is the main supply which is where the interference is carried.

Cheers, Neil
Back to Top
Peter Fenwick View Drop Down
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Bavarian-Board Contributor
Avatar

Joined: 27-August-2003
Location: Lost somewhere in time...
Status: Offline
Points: 6484
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2005 at 12:44
Originally posted by neileg neileg wrote:

 

You need the larger wire. The small one is the lead to the warning lamp. The larger one is the main supply which is where the interference is carried.

Ahh....

The reason attached it to the smaller one was because it came with a clip to fix to a wire and there was no way it would have gone on the larger one.

I might get a chance to have a look this weekend. 

Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel.
Back to Top
bmw325tds View Drop Down
Really Senior Member I
Really Senior Member I


Joined: 05-February-2005
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11-June-2005 at 02:21

Originally posted by Fushion Julz Fushion Julz wrote:

lol....

Firstly, I'm a sound engineer (I have and use PA systems up to 50Kw) and used to work in the HiFi industry as a Product Manager designing speakers, amongst other things, so I speak with a little experience...

 

Very nice.  I used to own a recording studio & practise rooms in the early 90's before moving into web development.

The 6 x 9's in the rear add bass, and the soundstage isn't affected (that much), as they add undirectional bass rather than add higher frequencies to the front components.  Especially when I have set up the active crossover in the headunit to remove the very high frequencies from the rear.

Adding amplification always adds complication - it can sound alot better, but it can sound ALOT worse.

Oh, and the time delay isn't a factor on mine, as I have set up the time delay function of the head unit properly (takes a bit of time and effort with the i-personalise), but this amount of time delay is v small compared to amplification located in different points of the car.

The amlification buzzing problem can be a whole host of problems, including cabling, but most commonly a dodgy alternator, or alternator induced whine.  This can be fixed by sticking an in-line noise filter on the pre-amp stage (only about £15 or so)

Oh, and if you have 50kW of amplification you don't run them off a pair of old radio shack's do you?



Edited by bmw325tds
Carl

Ford Focus 1.8TDdi Estate
Ford Focus 1.8TDdi
Porsche 944 Turbo

BM's gone, but maybe only temporary!
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down



This page was generated in 0.133 seconds.