Advice sought on E3 3.0si

Hi rr23, What info are you after?

Drew, the cost of welding repair is difficult to advise on, but find the best tin man in your area,and dont skimp on that part.

Behind the glove box is always the place to look but make sure it has'nt spread to the A,B or C Posts, the shock Towers or the actual chassis.

Fastest way to asses that is to get the seller to allow you to jack the car up, it's likely you will hear a slight crackling sound coming from the Door sills, That's replaceable, expensive, but soluble. The real test is jacking it up under the Ladder Frame.If you dont get the cracking, sound you might have found a good one, bodywise.

Next test is the back and front of the wheel arches, if the seller isnt looking a small  brad awl is very useful. But please dont turn it into  Cheese!

The E3's are getting scarce and window seals and glassware are becoming a problem.Depending on th size of the leak some rubber compound (non-hardening) may well solve it but give Jaymic a call.

Mechanically, the M30 motor is a good one, but the early heads are prone to cracking, again , the later heads of the pre-motronic 635's and E12 535's are stronger and fit perfectly tho you have to install a

new fuel pump  The little Facit type out of the early Mini's works perfectly .

Rocker arms are a perennial noisy problem unless the later oil feed bolt has been fitted.

Had a look at the one for sale in the  section and it looks pretty good, question only about servicing and wether it has slept outside.

Whatever you get, please, please avoid any pressure wash , car wash and accept that one of the costs of owning one of these or an E9 is handwashing and drying it, and if you want to maintain marital bliss buy your car it's own biiig hairdryer to dry the nooks and crannies

Regards

Dax

69 2800 CSA

73 3.0 CS

74 E3 3.3L

80 635 CSi