200 of my 300horses have died!

Hmmh, no chance to make another diagnosis readout? Now I also do not know exactly how to proceed. I would make another check on the ECU pinout and measure everything http://www.e38.org/e32/750ilpinout1988_90.pdf Do you have a Bentley Repair Manual? If not, have a look at my website. I would also try to check the cylinder identification sensors, and the fuel pressure, but without some diagnostic tools it is difficult and there is no other way just to check all data and compare what you find as correct data in the Bently or the ECU pinout. No friend in your area with the same car model where you could do some swapping of parts for testing? If not, ask on the boards in the U.K. as showm above, some of them have quite some spare parts and even the right diagnostic tools.

2 choices: dealer=costly and not sure that it will help what they change, or step by step with the limited resources you have and DIY. Weekend is coming soon, so you might have time to do some more checking.

 oh & i done that reset thing, so there be no new code, as i siad, mpg went up from 6mpg to around 13mpg so that something

Fine, do not give up, finally you will make it and will make you happy and your wallet not empty.

Maybe you open the throttling valves and check them if they are clean, as shown earlier in the links. The motors of the trhottling valves are constantly running in order to react very quick on any change. Check the brusshes and clean the stuff http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/84595/ you can also check the MAF's http://ow.no/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=8 3&Itemid=71 and the throttling valves again http://ow.no/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=9 2&Itemid=80

You might see different bolt heads on the throttling valves. It has no slot to use a screwdriver or rectangular to use a wrench. Do not know how that is correctly called in English, but they are made in such a way that they cannot be opened (not touched) by the normal backyard hack mechanic. No problem, just use a file and file a slot inside to use a screwdriver or drill the head of the bolts off and use new screws later. I replaced these by nice once made of stainless steel with a good hex head. Unfortunately I will be on another business trip from Monday to Indonesia and Singapore till Feb 18/19, so just try and I hope I see good news when I return home to Japan. Good Luck   

PS: While you have the throttling valves off, check/replace the small hoses underneath which go to the charcoal/breather tank. Usually they are very brittle. The ones I replaced recently on my project car just broke like a piece of glass.  

 

 

Edited by shogun

Ok thanks for that, its still not runnig right,do you have any sugestions ? im at my wits-end, summer is nearly here & i want to drive me Beemer !!!!!

 I have had the fault codes read, there was no codes, the tec's at my BMW garage just dont know what the prob is, it a mistory 

i just dont know what to do next

Oh Joy I've rounded my horses up!!!  you'll never guess what it was !!! the Wong sort of plugs had been fitted, the motor was only on 6 , i said all along it was like it was in limp mode, a guy on the 7 series register said try feeling the pipes to see if they both got hot, one side stone cold!!!! then look at plugs,they was very oiled up, put the right sort in and bingo!!! lots of smoke but it soon went, must have been lot of oil in there , neat petrol going down the pipes & thats why my  H.C was high, glad it running but a bit p-##ed of its cost me close to 1k , even BMW @ £105 per hour didn't spot it, just got to get my T&T sorted then LOOK OUT Parsley's beamer is back on the road

Result Parsley. I usually stick to original parts for reasons you describe. If any money was saved on those plugs, it has well and truly been p****d away and cost you a heap of grief. fbmwsh or credibble sh (usually) saves this sort of grief.