Worrying noise from potential purchase!!

prop shafts and diff mountings can make noises too; this is sometimes simple and cheap to sort, other times not. The exhaust has close clearances in places too, so can touch and make noises as well.

There are lots of crummy cars out there at vastly optimistic prices; there are also some good ones at realistic prices too.

Some welding is almost inevitable on cars of this age; what you have to ask yourself is how quickly corrosion is progressing, and have PO's actually done anything about root causes or just patched up the damage?

hope your search is eventually fruitful,

cheers

Thanks Brucey.

I reckon the welding might have been bodged as the whole underside of the car has been covered in underseal rather than just the welded patches. Will probably give that one a miss as it's not possible to see how far the rust has spread.

One more quick question, these are the first auto cars I've ever looked at (the only ones that have ever appealed to me!). I know transmission fluid is supposed to be red or clear, however a couple of cars I've seen have had a sort of caramel/browny colour. Does this meant the tranny's had it or should I just avoid cars with very dark brown/black fluid??

Cheers all

Mark

auto fluid is red when new, goes brown then finally black.

Discoloration indicates old, overheated, or contaminated fluid.

Some report auto gearbox failure shortly after a fluid change, but I have yet to hear any convincing explanation as to why.

The EH switchable auto is a good box, the earlier non-switchable 4 spd less so. Auto boxes can fail at anything after ~80K miles but this seems to be more common with the earlier box.

In 'sport' mode the EH box will never select top (which is an overdrive ratio), you have engine braking available most of the time, and upshifts can be controlled easily with throttle position. On the usual gearing (3.07 diff) you will pull an indicated 100mph in second(!) gear. In 'E' you will be pulling just 2200rpm at 80mph. I'd still prefer a manual some of the time but for me the EH auto scores 8/10 for brisk road use, and is easy to live with.

Most would say that it is vital that the fluid is changed in the box regularly; it is also vital that the filter is changed, otherwise it can block oil flow (incredibly bad thing).

I agree with James re. the car priorities, but at 3K you should be able to get a not-too-scruffy one to drive rather than a project to work on if that is what you want. Its just a question of shopping around until you find the right one.

My car is an '87 chrome bumper 635; I'm not alone in thinking this pick of the bunch in some ways, as the original E12 chassis cars (76-81) are now difficult to find in good shape, slightly earlier cars (E28 chassis 82-86) have a crossover brake linkage (not BMW's finest engineering moment) and later (8/87-90) cars (although they have improvements in some other places) are heavier and often have stuff like leather covered dashboards (with which I have mysteriously lived without for my entire adult life).

Overall there are about ten different engine specifications on 6ers, three basic body/chassis set-ups (plus sports options, lsd, diff ratios, at least six different gearboxes) and almost endless other trim/gadget options. So there is probably a 6er for most tastes, just a question of finding the right one.... 

cheers

 Evening All!!

 I've just put a deposit down on an '88 Highline.  Had a thorough look around, undeneath, inside and behind the wheel today and with my (untrained) eye it all looked pretty good, touch wood. Am just hoping now that it doesn't go wrong until next payday as I spent my while £3K budget on the nose!

It looks stunning in Zinnobar Red with lotus white leather, I will post some photos when I pick it up later this week, can't wait he he!

thanks to everyone for all the advice again, this really is an excellent forum

Mark