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peterw View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: stop light problems - cured, thanks
    Posted: 25-July-2003 at 18:09
It turned out to be a new switch (£15 & 5 mins) was all that was needed, even the cruise is working fine. When I bought the switch from a main dealer it turned out to be a common problem. Now all I need to do is sort out the over sensitive alarm. Thanks one and all for suggestions and help.

can anybody help with a stop light problem on a 91 735i es. They are not working, fuses checked, bulbs checked, switch checked Warning display "check brake circuit",

Any clues, any help, is it linked in to the cruise control?

Any solutions?

thanks


Edited by peterw
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kbannon View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2003 at 18:40

It could be a dodgy bulbholder - check for corrosion or a loose connection

Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
Previous: 1989 E30 320i SE
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-July-2003 at 20:08
normally it's associated with the hoders at the rear, try removing and cleaning, making sure the contact are clean and OK.
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peterw View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2003 at 10:15
Thanks but have checked the holders and they appear almost new. It's all vey clean and no signs of corrosion. They were working fine, the warning came up first then the lights went. When ignition is turned on nothing happens until you toch the brake pedal at which point the warning sign pops up.

HELP
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Nigel View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2003 at 15:16
Are the other rear ligts in the cluster working ok?
If not could be an earth problem (0 volts return), might be an idea to switch your side lights on, put on an indicator, and get someone to put thier foot on the brake if your cluster resembles a disco lighting unit its a 0 volt problem.
Best Wishes

Nigel

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peterw View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2003 at 20:07
Nope all other lights are working OK. Had a mechanic scratching his head yesterday, his electrics guy's on holiday til middle of week. A real pain.
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Nigel View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2003 at 20:09
ok, do you have a multimeter?
Best Wishes

Nigel

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Mark R View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2003 at 23:11
Where about are you located, maybe someone could come take a look?

We can discount the brake warning switch, as you say the warning light comes on when you touch the brake pedal, not knowing quite how the system works, but I guess it senses the resistance across the brake lights when the brake pedal is touched, it appears that you have a open circuit after the control module. You may need to some grovelling in the boot to find the module and check all the connections and voltages.

Best of luck,

P.s Why do you ask about the cruise control? The cruise control will sense when the brake pedal is applied, it uses the brake pedal switch as a mechanism to disable the cruise contol. Does your cruise control still work? if so does it switch off when you touch the brakes?

Mark
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Edited by Mark R
Mark Roberts
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Someone left a note on my windscreen. It read 'Parking Fine' that was nice
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peterw View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-July-2003 at 10:00
in answer to multimeter, I assume you're referring to the on board computer / trip, yes is the answer.

I will see what I can find out about the open module tomorrow.

The cruise control is working apart from it does not switch off when I touch the brakes, that's why we feel there might be some link to it.
?
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Mark R View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-July-2003 at 18:58
The multimeter Nigel mentioned is a 'multi' purpose test meter i.e. tests for volts/amps/ohms etc it's used to diagnose electrical problems.

Without seeing the car I don't think anyone will be able to diagnose the problem,

Best of luck

Mark
Mark Roberts
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Someone left a note on my windscreen. It read 'Parking Fine' that was nice
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Nigel View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27-July-2003 at 22:23
Peter
Sorry mate, I didnt make myself clear enough, a multimeter is a meter that incorperates several functions, normally ac & dc volts, ohms, diode check, ac & dc current, and sometimes frequency and temperature.
I think I have the wiring diagrams for your car on a cd rom, but I dont have the manual.
I was just going to get you to do some simple voltage checks to see if we could narrow it down a bit.

Edited by Nigel
Best Wishes

Nigel

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-July-2003 at 19:24
The bulb holder that slots into my rear light cluster doesn't sit straight- it keeps tilting over, this opens the circuit so the check computer thinks the bulb has gone. The solution? an elastic band going from around the bulb holder to a portion of screw that is sticking out of the light cluster. Any help?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2003 at 15:51
Would like to know the answer to this one when you get it, as my 89' 525 has an identical problem. In addition my main beams go out as well (with no dash warning coming up) leaving me with no choice but to use full beams!
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peterw View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2003 at 21:15
Cured it, it was just the switch that needed changing.
£15.00 and 2 minutes grovelling in the passenger footwell.
Not sure about your full beams silvox as the only thing this switch has any connections to is the brakes and the cruise.
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Nigel View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31-July-2003 at 23:57
Silvox
Your main beam problem is almost certainly your half burn control box.
Open your bonnet, look to the right of the car, just below the windscreen is a black box containing modules.
The half burn box on my 89 E34 was the nearest one to me when I stood by the car.
Remove and open this, you will (I hope), be able to clearly see some burning on the tracks where the voltage has been jumping across a dry or more probably a cracked joint.Normally in my experience by the dodgy looking open frame relays.
Clean it, remove the solder, then put some fresh solder on.
Good Luck
Best Wishes

Nigel

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