LED Resistor?

Fitted LED Brake lights and now the ODC warning comes on.  - but as I expected

I know I need to fit a (two?) resistor(s) to convince it that they haven't failed, but does anyone know the value?

I've already done the google search, and 10 ohm / 50 w seems to be favourite, but this was for normal rear light use, and at that wattage to cope with the heat of constant use - which brake-lights aren't.

Any suggestions?

thepits wrote: perhaps this should be in detailing?

here it is then!

What LED lights are you using, and on what car? Hope you're not using LED "bulbs"- most of them are sh*te when it comes to daytime illumination.

There are a few ways of getting round this, some better than others. You can use load-equalising resistors, as HERE:

If you're wanting to work on a custom-built LED setup for your light clusters, suggest you have a good read through this Forum

Edited by Horsetan

Toyota Yaris LED custom set-up

View original video HERE (partway down the page)

Interesting

One of the advantages of LEDs is low power low temperature running.

But to get the computer to not think a bulb has blown you have to put in a device(resistor) which uses power and gets hot.

So BMWs can be environmentally friendly but only if you buy them as such from BMW and not modify them later.

Anyone know if the computer can told that bulbs have been replaced by lower current devices

10 ohm 50W would be a good choice, a 21W bulb equates to 7 ohm resistor and at high wattage you only get them in 5 ohm and 10 Ohm

Hope that helps

gjoconnor92 wrote: Interesting One of the advantages of LEDs is low power low temperature running. But to get the computer to not think a bulb has blown you have to put in a device(resistor) which uses power and gets hot. So BMWs can be environmentally friendly but only if you buy them as such from BMW and not modify them later. Anyone know if the computer can told that bulbs have been replaced by lower current devices

This all depends on the car in question...

As a basic rule, any of the "old chassis" cars - E46/E39 - need the correct Lamp Control Module (LKE/LSZ).

The example I'll use is a 2000 E46 - converted to later type LED tail lamps. The "proper" BMW way to do this is to buy the retrofit kit. This consists of 2 tail lamps and a new LSZ. The new LSZ has to be coded to the car as it stores lots of info including mileage etc. This is rather expensive but does retain all the benefits of proper LED (less power consumption, correct interaction with OBC etc.)

The second way is to fit the OE lamps but fool the LSZ - put a load on the circuit equal to the "old type" lights... This involves resistors etc. and a little modding to the wiring.

Some of the styling companies (MAX Power for BMW sorta thing) supply lamps & resistor packs etc.

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Regarding recoding the LSZ for the new type lamps - can't be done. However, a s/h newer type LSZ can be recoded to match an older car. The wiring on OE fitment is different. E46 saloons run from start of production >>> 2001_09 and from 2001_09 >>> End Of Production. Coupe's and Convertibles are different again. It does get sort of complicated :(

I've not done any of the E60/E90 type yet for this - they're not really old enough for owners to start messing around that way with them. However, on these modules the Light Centre is flash programmable so a new one "shouldn't" be necessary.

Hope that didn't confuse more than help...
Eddie.

Horsetan wrote: I hope you're not using these, Simon: ....'cos they're sh*te

nope, I'm using these -

which shine white, as i've got them behind the original Red Lenses.

 

p.s. I appear to have sorted the OBC by fitting a pair of 10ohm 25watt (couldn't get 50watt quickly/cheaply) resistors. They get warm - as I expected - but should be ok for the Brake-Lights as I don't use them that often

p.p.s. Thanks again for the help.

 

Horsetan wrote: Hope those aren't the 18-LED ones. 20-LED versions are better.

"la-la, wibble-wibble, not listening"