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Forum LockedE46 central locking just stopped working.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote milltown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: E46 central locking just stopped working.
    Posted: 05-July-2007 at 16:07

Drove home from work this morning, got out of the car and locked it with the central locking no problem. Just went out to it now and pressed the button on the key to open it and nothing. Got the spare key and it does nothing either.

Opened it with the key in the lock and the alarm started beeping until I put the key in the ignition and started the car. Both keys will open and close the car, via the lock, and both will start it. One key was used this morning and the other was used two days ago with no issues.

Rang the dealer to see if there's a quick fix but he said all he could do was re-initialise the keys, there and then, or failing that book it in for a diagnostic.

Has anyone come accross this issue before? Car is still under warranty at the moment but I'd like to be sure it's not a sign of an expensive module about to cave just after the warranty expires.

Thanks in advance.

'02 320Ci Auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote autofix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06-July-2007 at 09:28

Hi,

Check the fuses first.

It is very easy to re-initialise the keys, The procedure has been posted here a few times before and is in the car's handbook. I dont think this will solve anything though.

Really It needs to be diagnosed properly. If it is under warranty then why not let the dealer handle it.

In the mean time, be a little wary of where you park and what you leave in the car. Sometimes when these start to go faulty, the symptoms can include windows or boot opening by themselves while parked. It is not common but does happen so worth a mention.

HTH

 

Kane Automotive
Mercedes, BMW and VAG Diagnostic Specialist
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Starfury Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-July-2007 at 08:30
I have exactly the same problem, sometimes the keyfob wont unlock the central locking (and before anyone says battery, it locks EVERYtime without fail on the keyfob and I can hold down the open or lock buttons and the windows open or close so it cant be battery, plus the central console button wont work either for unlock when the keyfob doesn't work).

I was told it might be a sensor up by the rear view mirror that's overheating. Out of interest does it only happen in the daytime and after about 10am upto sunset sort of time?

E46 328i SE 1999
BMW 328i SE (E46/M52TU - I think) 99/T
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote milltown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-July-2007 at 14:05

Well the day after my original post it started working again and did so for, I think, three days. Then it failed again, this time at night (sorry Starfury), but worked again the following morning.

I called in to talk to the service manager at my local dealer about it. When I told him it was the same with both keys he agreed that there was no point re-initialising the keys, that it was most likely a car problem. I asked him about running a diagnostic but he says there's no point doing that while it's working. If there is a fault stored, all the diagnostic check will do is query the relevant systems and report back that everything is working as it should. I need to bring it in when it's not working which obviously means I'll find it not working one morning, drive to the dealer, get out of the car and lock it with the button, get back in the car and carry on about my business. And repeat several times until the day after the warranty expires!

'02 320Ci Auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SupaD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-July-2007 at 22:29
i seem to have the same problem as starfury.i took it to the garage and he said it is probly the central locking moduel which doesn't just control the locking. After putting the computer on my car it did come up with central locking sensor fail.the override using the computer could not unlock any of the doors etc. he said i would need a new moduel costing £200 + .but the 2 points i have is A;is thier a sensor for central locking, or is it just this moduel that has other functions to. B;the problem seems to come and go and is usaully worst in hot weather and if it was a moduel that has multiple functions why is everything else working ok. If any1 has the answer to sloving the problem without paying through the nose or being told to replace a part that does not need replacing i would relcome thier suggestion. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote milltown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-July-2007 at 00:58

Talk about timing!

I would love to hear more from autofix on this because...

Yesterday I came out of work and pressed the key to open the car and again, nothing. I was actually pleased as I thought "right, it's gone again. Now I can get it back to the dealer and have it sorted while it's still under warranty". But when I opened the door with the key I could hear what I presumed to be the electric window motor twitching, perhaps trying to drop the window the few mm for the door to open. Turned the key in the ignition and various lights were flickering but not a peep out of the engine.

One of my workmates said he had jump leads so we could try a jump but I've honestly seen fairy lights attached to thicker cables than what he produced. Needless to say, that didn't work. I called BMW assist who said they'd be there in an hour. In the meantime I borrowed a battery booster/jumper pack from security and tried again. It behaved and started first time. I turned off the engine again within a minute and to satisfy my curiosity disconnected the booster and tried again. Started on the button again!

So there's no way it was a flat battery. Also, interestingly going on what Autofix says above, I found the car open on Saturday morning when I went out and I'm very careful about locking it, to the extent that I'll look out the window to check the clown's nose before I get into bed.

What are the chances the dealer will find anything he'll fix under warranty on a diagnostic?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote autofix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2007 at 00:23

Hi,

When it failed to start were the headlamps flashing?

Did the flashing start when you switched the ignition on (position 2) or when you turned it to the crank position?

After the boost start how long did you run it before you tried to start without the booster pack and how many times did you try it after that?

The non-start may or may not be related to the C/L problem. Besides what I posted above, another symptom of a faulty General Module is a battery drain. I have seen these with any combination of symptoms but not with them all. If it was a discharged battery that caused the problem there would be low voltage codes stored in a few modules, in particular the EWS and the SRS. The Dealer should be able to read when the codes were set if they are there.

More than likely you have a General Module problem but it can be difficult to diagnose if it is not playing up when tested. At the very least the dealer should check for trouble codes, clear the memory and then check again after another episode. It might be a good idea to check for a Battery drain as well.

In short, yes it would be worth looking at it but it would not be a simple diagnostic. If it acts up when being looked at that would make it a lot easier.

If you have reported symptoms of a General Module failure within the warranty period then surely they will cover it!

As a matter of interest, what dealer is it?

HTH

 

 

Kane Automotive
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote milltown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-July-2007 at 02:43

Thanks for your interest!

I don't know if the headlamps were flashing.

As best as I can remember:

C/L didn't work so I opened it with the key. The previous time the c/l failed, when I opened it with the key the alarm started to beep until I turned on the ignition. This latest time, no alarm. When I turned on the ignition what I think were all the usual dash lights came on but were flickering as if a battery cable was loose. When I tried to start the engine there was nothing at all, not even a clicking relay. I can't remember if the dash lights went off when the key was turned to start but they would stay flickering as long as the ignition was on. Then I also noticed the window motor in the door "twitching" as if trying to drop the window to the door open position (it's a coupé).

When I put the booster pack on and turned on the ignition, all the lights that should come on came on and the ones that should go out after a few seconds did so too. The engine started first time. I got out and disconnected the booster, then turned the engine off and tried it again and it started on the button again. It had been running probably a minute or less so, unless there's a whopper of an alternator in there, there's no way (to my mind) the battery could have gone from too dead to drop a window a few mm or click a relay, to sufficiently charged to turn over a , still cold, 6 cylinder engine. I started it once more soon after that, then drove home about 7 miles turned it off and back on again.

Another thing that may be related, the passenger window sometimes won't go down and other times needs the switch toggled a few times before it moves. I thought it may be mechanically sticking but could it be related to the module fault and the other symptoms?

The dealer is Frank Keane but I wouldn't be too optimistic about a previously reported fault being covered outside of warranty. I had a problem with a window regulator on my previous car in warranty. They took it in, had a look and agreed it needed a regulator and ordered one. Due to health problems the car was put on the long finger and was just out of warranty by the time I got around to it. They said they'd ask BMW to cover it as a goodwill gesture (whether they actually did ask I don't know) but apparently it was refused.

Can you PM me location and contact details please? I wouldn't mind getting an independent opinion, if only to allay my suspicions that BMW will just try to nurse the car through the warranty period, leaving me with the big bills when it's up.

'02 320Ci Auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Starfury Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2007 at 14:13
Yeh occasionally I come to my car in the morning and its unlocked and I am like wtf... I coulda sworn I locked that.
BMW 328i SE (E46/M52TU - I think) 99/T
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmwcare Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26-July-2007 at 18:35
This is an interesting one. However, there is one link to both problems... The General Module.

------------------------------------------------------------ ---------

When you unlock the car at the door barrel the General Module (GM or ZKE) recognises this as being different to the remote. In the Car/Key Memory options it can be coded whether the alarm turns off with RC only or RC & Key. In your case I'd suggest that it was locked using remote and the alarm was turned on. When unlocked with key it did not turn off the alarm (and the horn went off...) but when the key was put in ignition and turned on the EWS recognised the key and told the GM to turn off the alarm. This is because your car is coded RC Only for Alarm deactivation.

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Dealing with the non start - I've seen batteries to fail like that on many modern BMWs. Fit a new battery (minimum 90Ah). Even if the battery was previously good it has become discharged to a very low level and that is the death knell for a battery. Also ensure that the main ground to the engine is secure.

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Your Remote problem... The most likely failure here is the GM/ZKE - this controls the alarm, central locking, electric windows & roof... A new one has to be coded to the car. And a secondhand one can be fitted if you want - I wouldn't risk it though.
Also, a faulty GM can cause battery discharge as sometimes they don't shut down within 16mins of locking car as they should... So it could be the cause of your battery problem.

------------------------------------------------------------ -------

As Autofix says, the dealer should read all codes from the ZKE (there will be many many codes relating to Alarm Triggers etc.), clear them and then retest... If they don't do that - go somewhere else and screw the warranty - get an excuse from them, get it repaired and send them the bill... When they don't pay get a solr to send the next one.

Document EVERYTHING and if you're able for the aggro & hassle you'll get paid eventually.
Personally I'd walk away, get it fixed elsewhere and never put any money over their Sales, Parts or Service counter ever again...

HTH,
Eddie.

BMW & Mercedes Specialist.
Galway & Surrounding Areas.
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www.mercedescare.com
All BMW models covered including E60/E90/F01/F10 with flash programming/CIP/coding as required
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote milltown Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-July-2007 at 13:49

Thanks Eddie. Always handy to be armed with plenty of info.

Re: The battery.

I honestly can't see the battery being at fault for the non start considering it started again straight away after the booster was taken off. I spent many years working with batteries in cars, plant machinery, fork lifts and other material handling equipment and I have never seen a flat battery take a charge that quickly.

I'll throw it back into the dealer and see what he says.

Thanks again lads.

'02 320Ci Auto
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