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screamingflat6 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30-November-2008 at 18:47

Hi,

Sorry for my lack of input on the forum for ages,I really need your help now.I wanted to run my engine on my m3 today as its kept in a carcoon and i'll only deflate it and play with the car in good weather which is not very often in this country.I took the battery conditioner off put the key in the ignition turned to the first click dipped the clutch all dash lights on and correct turned over nice and quick but didn't start first click .I sat there and thought it over no fuel pump buzz.Please correct me if I am wrong but I should here the pumps pressurising I did give the relays a little tap behind the header tank with the ignition on and heard no clicks or pops.I think my alarm has caused this problem as I ran the car a while ago and put it away alarmed it and now it won't start.

Many thanks in advance,,Gaz   



Edited by screamingflat6
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sporty1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2008 at 10:20

It might be the immobiliser on your alarm if it is wired into your fuel pump, which if it is a Cat 1 it probably is, could also be the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, coil, dizzy cap, rotor arm etc, etc.........

Have you checked that you have fuel getting to the injector rail?

If you do not have fuel then run a 12V live direct from the battery to the fuel pump for test purposes.

Have you checked you have a spark at the end of the leads?



Edited by Sporty1

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01-December-2008 at 17:58

sporty,,

Thanks for your helpful advise as usual,I got home today at 2.PM after the morning shift at airbus deflated the carcoon and started work on the car.I rang Geoff at eta who pointed me in a couple of directions with what might be wrong,,I removed the back seat got the float and pump out connected the pump cranked the car over the fuel pump motor turning doh!!! refitted it all no problem.Car still not starting before that removed no4 plug dry no fuel on them,,looked behind the header tank removed the silver relay wiggled it about, still no starting took it totally out I'm getting two lives into the relay holder so alarm is not switching the pump off? The silver relay sounds worn inside as I rattle it around next to my ear so I'll try one of them from the stealer's tomorrow.I think the relay is the DME one which is a regular one for the Porsche gang to have a problem with am I barking up the right tree?

Regards Gaz,,,also many thanks ETA BMW.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sporty1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-December-2008 at 09:57

If your in-tank pump is working then your fuel pump relay is also working as both pumps are on the same feed.

On the fuel pump relay pin 30 is 'hot all the time'

Pin 86 is ignition/switched live and should switch pin 87 (to 12V) which feeds the two pumps and pin 85 to 12V.

If the relay is switching in this manner then its it not your alarm, or your alarm does not immobilise on the fuel circuit.

The silver relay is the Main Relay, do not believe that they are a common failure, but it may have failed.

Did you check you were getting a spark when you pulled #4?

Have you checked the second fuel pump? Do you have fuel at the injector rail? If your plugs are dry then I don't think your getting any fuel up.

 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-December-2008 at 20:36

Hi,

I put the part number of the relay into google and loads of info about none starting BMW'S of all different series came up.I ordered a dme and fuel pump relay today from C3,I will get the parts by the weekend so I'll let you know if she starts then.I am a bugger for messing with things so I took the relay (silver one behind the header tank)apart two resistors and a copper coil inside and a large corrosion blob on the coil its got to be my problem.

regards gaz,, 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15-December-2008 at 17:19

Hi,

Still not starting! I bought the fuel pump and dme relays which I installed and still not firing-up? The battery was cranking the car over ok but it was *uck*d really quick,tried another battery from another car of mine and the same.I ran the car a while ago on the spot in the carcoon,It was running great I let the fans come on turned off  the engine and attached the trickle charger zipped the car up into the carcoon and thought to myself I will run her up again in three months,.doh not bloody starting.I have other cars which I store and none of them have failed to start yet.I have now rang the alarm fitter and he's coming tomorrow I hope he can sort this out for me tomorrow as I just don't hear the injection making a buzz click or anything I'm sure that I should here the pump buzz for a couple of seconds on initial start up.

Regards Gaz



Edited by screamingflat6
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sporty1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-December-2008 at 09:17
Originally posted by screamingflat6 screamingflat6 wrote:

Hi,

Still not starting! I bought the fuel pump and dme relays which I installed and still not firing-up? The battery was cranking the car over ok but it was *uck*d really quick,tried another battery from another car of mine and the same.I ran the car a while ago on the spot in the carcoon,It was running great I let the fans come on turned off  the engine and attached the trickle charger zipped the car up into the carcoon and thought to myself I will run her up again in three months,.doh not bloody starting.I have other cars which I store and none of them have failed to start yet.I have now rang the alarm fitter and he's coming tomorrow I hope he can sort this out for me tomorrow as I just don't hear the injection making a buzz click or anything I'm sure that I should here the pump buzz for a couple of seconds on initial start up.

Regards Gaz

 

Gaz, IIRC, they do not 'buzz', as the fuel pumps only go live on cranking the engine.

 



Edited by Sporty1

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-December-2008 at 16:17

The latest update,,,

I had the alarm man around today,powered the main fuel pump buzzing noise,,pulled the plugs small wif of fuel.So we put a plug against the head no spark ,checked the power to the coil 12v in also checked before the lead.The coil is the problem in his opinion so I have ordered a coil.I hope the coil sorts it out and thanks SPORTY for the quick reply to my daft question.

 

Regards Gaz,,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16-December-2008 at 16:25

I'm late to this so you might have looked at these already but it could be one, or both, of the two crank sensors.

Hope you have a working car again very soon.

Cheers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2008 at 17:20

Hi all,

its really doing me in and I'am getting totally knobbed off.Today's saga got it out of the carcoon fitted the new coil cranked it over NO BLOODY START STILL AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! I pulled the plugs small smell of fuel in there,,heated them on the cooker ring cleaned them with a wire brush put em back in still no start.So I've pulled em all out will get a new set tomorrow will check using a old lead and old plug from the coil to the head tomorrow for a spark.I will take the dizzy cap off also and have a look at the rotor arm.PLEASE fwd the info on the position of the two sensors that go wrong and I'll change them as well while its having a ignition refurb.

Many thanks Gaz

ps, also pulled off the small pipe on the fwd of the fuel injection rail(u bend one) and cranked fuel coming through...



Edited by screamingflat6
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lancastrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2008 at 18:16

So:

When you have checked that you have good spark from the coil HT then check that you have a good spark at the plug (ie after the disi)

Next, ensure you are happy that you have got fuel to the fuel rail. You have disconnected the return line before the FPR if you connect a fuel hose to that you can collect the fuel in a measured jar and calcualte the flow rate. - There is a spec value that ensures that the flow rate is sufficient, but this is probably not necessary to get it going. (note - you can create a couple of jumpers that replace the main and fuel relays to activate the fuel pump without having to be turning the engine on the starter)

Have you tested that the injectors are injecting? Turn it over with the spark plugs out and you should get a good indication - smell of fuel and a puff of atomised fuel from the plug holes - all four.

If not, it is probably either the engine position sensors or the ECU.

The 2 position sensors are down below the starter motor but in line with the flywheel. They plug into the engine loom behind the airbox (under the wiring cover). The two sensors are both the same part but you need to ensure that the right sensor is plugged into the right connector. ie do not mix them up.

There is a third sensor higher up - There is no need to worry about that. It is for diagnostics only.

There are known problems with ECU that are notoriously difficult to find. There is a school of thought that says if you give the ECU a gentle tap or two from below and/or dissconnect/reconnect and waggle the connector you may make some progress. Also try turning it over while applying moderate upward pressure to the ECU connector. This worked for me when all else failed. Then I had to fix the ECU!!!



Edited by Lancastrian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2008 at 20:40

OK,

this is the plan of action now

1,Put a plug on the coil via a spare lead arc against the head, this should show coil output.(spark)

2,As I mentioned on the last post I removed the rubber fuel pipe cranked and fuel squirted onto a rag covering it.

3,The plugs don't look soaked with fuel but the smell of fuel came from the head.

4,I will then connect the coil to the dizzy cap and put the leads back onto the cap and individually check each lead for a spark with the plug attached.

5,If that check works,I will put a new set of plugs in and try to fire her up.

6,No spark from the leads and I'll replace the rotor cap

7, We had power yesterday reaching the coil

8,I will wobble the ecu as a very last resort.

9,The car was last run three months ago on the spot,and it ran perfectly so this is very strange I have stored a car once for months and had no problems.

10,If I have a spark and fuel whats next on the check list

your's GAZ

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lancastrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-December-2008 at 23:19
Originally posted by screamingflat6 screamingflat6 wrote:

10,If I have a spark and fuel whats next on the check list

If you have a spark (at the right time) and fuel it should at least make an attempt to start.

What next, depends on your tenacity, and determination to fix it yourself. There comes a point when you pay someone else to fix it for you.

I hope that your next set of tests finds the solution. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sporty1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-December-2008 at 09:41

You can check the two crank sensors, firstly ensure they have continuity, secondly they should have a resistance of 960 +/-10% ohms (IIRC). Unplug them at the bulkhead and test from there. Unlikely for both to go 'bad' at the same time.

Something else I would do is find the immobiliser 'cuts' on your alarm and bypass them so the immobiliser is not longer in operation, that way there is one less thing to prevent your car from starting. 

Your alarm engineer jumped the fuel pump? That just means the pump is working not that there is not a problem with the wiring to it. Jump the fuel pump then try to start the car, if it starts there is your problem.

 



Edited by Sporty1

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote screamingflat6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-December-2008 at 22:04

Hi and thanks to you all for your help,

As Victor meldrew would say "I just don't bloody believe it!" I have fixed the car and its a really daft thing that my 67year old dad said have a look at.The rotor arm!!!!  it visually looked like new but I did as Dad said cleaned the copper band on fwd part of the rotor also cleaned the cap terminals and wire brushed the plugs that had been removed yesterday so the head was free to evaporate any fuel in there.I reassembled the car and Bang! first turn of the key she ran sweet as a nut,I then let her run until the fans came on. 

PS, will start her more regularly now .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sporty1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-December-2008 at 09:19

Cool.


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