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CheemaD View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28-April-2004 at 14:30

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your reply, it didn't undertstand the "Does the temp drop if your parked but then raise the revs? " bit in your reply.

I'm going to try and flush the Rad this w/e with some good quality flush. Whats confusing me even more is that my car is fitted with what appears to be two bleed screws, one on the stat and one (black plastic) on top of the Rad. If I follow the instructions as described in the Haynes manual I don't need to touch the bleed screw on the stat.

Has anybody successfully refilled the cooling systems on an M40 engine (without any problems) by following the Haynes instructions word for word. How do yo ensure the system is bled of all possible air-locks. Would be most interested in finding out. I've even been advised to put the fron of the car on ramps before filling the system (weird), I don''t know why/

Thanks

Dal

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autofix View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-April-2004 at 10:12

Hi Dal,

Yhe M40 engine is easy enough to bleed. I have never seen a Haynes manual, so cant comment on that but this is how I would do it.

Move the heat setting inside to hot with the heater fan off. Open the stat bleeder and remove the filler cap. Remove the rad bleeder. Fill with water until it comes out the rad bleeder, then replace the bleeder but only tighten 2 turns. Run the engine at idle and fill with water again.  I would use water as its cheaper than coolant and there is no point in wasteing coolant at this stage. As the engine heats you will see air/water from the bleeders. close them and leave the engine running. keep an eye on the temp, as long as it does not boil it is ok to get as hot as it likes. As it heats, watch the temp of the bottom hose. When the stat opens this will heat up in a few secs. At this stage open both bleeder again to allow the air which was behind the stat to escape. The one on the stat only needs to be opened for a few secs, the one on the rad for a few seconds longer. Be careful not to overtighten the rad bleeder they only need a pinch to seal. You can open either bleeder a couple of times for a few seconds each if you like to be sure. At this stage put the cap back on on drive it for about a mile. Then let it settle to allow the pressure to drop and carefully open the cap. Top up if needed and run for a few mins more, opening the bleeders a couple of times for a few secs each.

You will now be ready to check it for overheating. If it is ok, all you have to do now is drain the system, refill with coolant and bleed it all over again :) 

Bear in mind that a blocked rad will make bleeding more difficult.

HTH

Alan.

 

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CheemaD View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29-April-2004 at 12:41

Thanks very much for that info Alan, Ill give it go an post some feedback on how it went.

 

Cheers

Dal

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30-April-2004 at 12:53

Cheema,

The comment was regading the check on the visous fan. If the car is sitting at rest and starts to overheat, if you raise the revs and the temp starts to drop then it is the fan that may be causing the overheat at idle, usually. If not then a potential blockage/airlock. Autofix's bleeding tips are just about how I do it, minus the radiator bleed, I don't have a bleed screw on my radiator. Just a drain at the bottom. I wouldn't totally trust Haynes as the manuals can be notoriously inaccurate though.

Hope you get to the bottom of it mate.

Rob

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-May-2004 at 12:57

Many thanks for everyone who helped me solve this overheating problem. Basically I think the trick is to fill the system really really slowly, leaving both bleed screws fully opened, wait till you get a constant flow of water (without air bubles) through the stat bleeder screw. Tighten the stat bleeder screw. Then continue pouring the water very slowly till it comes out (with out bubbles) from the rad bleeder screw, then tighten the rad bleeder screw. Run the engine and continue bleeding from the rad 2 or 3 times.

and Bingo all air removed. Temp guage no longer goes over the 3/4 way mark no mater how long it's idling.

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Peter Fenwick View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04-May-2004 at 13:12
Glad to here you got it sorted.
Entering an age of Austerity and now driving a Focus Diesel.
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