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fire4121 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: E30 OIL??
    Posted: 17-February-2003 at 09:57
I have a 1990 316i LUX with 113000 on the clock, and the tappets are well noisy, can I change the standard oil and put in semi synthetic,? its had "normal" oil all its life
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Jonathan Cox View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-February-2003 at 17:14

You can put in what oil you like.  I have heard that synthetic will work on tappets, however it is quite expensive, Mobil 1 is about 30ish.  You could try semi-synthetic, Magnatec etc.  This is about 17ish for 4.5 litres from Halfords.  Change your filter too, there're only a fiver, but don't change it every oil change as they get better with age.  I use Magnatec in my 318iS, and change the oil every 3000 miles, but change the filter every 6000.

It's up to you, but sticking fully synthetic oil in your engine at this time in it's life might be a bit overkill...if you know what I mean.

Jonathan, Manchester.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-February-2003 at 17:49

Go for the fully synthetic, ok its expensive but it just might help protect your engine that little longer, and a lot cheaper than a damaged engine.

I always go for best oil and best rubber - its just gotta be done !!!

Mobil 1 is the dogs.......................

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-February-2003 at 18:41
would fully synth not be too thin? I always use semi synth 10W40 and have no problems.
Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
Previous: 1989 E30 320i SE
1997 E39 523i
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Jonathan Cox View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-February-2003 at 20:59

Kbannon's right, putting fully synthetic in an engine that wasn't really designed for it isn't going to do too much.  I'm afraid the old saying  "closing the stable door after the horse has bolted" comes to mind too...!

You also have to remember that your engine is a four pot 316 with 113000 miles on the clock.  I'm not saying that this is a lot of miles, cos it isn't, it's just that if the engine had used fully synthetic from the start then perhaps it would be worth it, but it hasn't.

Another thing you could try is engine flush, either STP, or  Comma, somthing like that.  This will get rid of the sludge that's sitting in the corners of your engine..!

Jonathan, Manchester.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-February-2003 at 21:59
I've used Magnatec in both my old 316 and in my present 320i, Though as J Cox advised its better to flush the engine first as I've been advised not to mix different types of oils (i.e. synthetic and mineral) The expense of a decent oil is worth it considering it's the 'engines blood'
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2003 at 17:42
It's okay to mix oils, it just that if you mix synthetic with mineral, the mineral cancels out the synthetic and therefore the synthetic won't do the job it's supposed to.  And that's just a waste of money...!
Jonathan, Manchester.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2003 at 18:23
I don't know if I would use an engine flush - there are reports out there of them loosening the sludge only for it to blockage in the engine.
Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
Previous: 1989 E30 320i SE
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2003 at 19:53

Yes putting fully synthetic in a car which has always run on mineral oil will strip the sludge from the internals and block up the oil galleries which will mean your tappets will get worse in theory as they will run dry.



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Jonathan Cox View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-February-2003 at 21:41

I've used oil flush in both my engines, M42 and M30, and have had no problems at all.  It certainly cleans out all the crap.  Mind you I don't flush every oil change, just every other one, together with the filter.

The flush I use is the one made by Comma, as this can be used while driving the car, ideal for automatics. Just for half an hour or so.  Whereas the STP can only be used at fast idle, 2000rpm.

Make sure you dump the oil as soon as you stop the engine, don't let the car sit there for an hour as the oil will start to cool and thicken up, and the sludge which was held in suspension will sink into all those hard to reach places...!

You will find that if you regularly use flush, less and less sludge will be evident.

 

Jonathan, Manchester.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-February-2003 at 01:21
Might try that Comma stuff, I used Wynns before on a fast idle on my auto. I didn't know about the tappets thing when changing oil as I've just started to hear them more and never realy thought about it being anything to do with different oils, I'll give it another flush soon and see what happens.
As for sludge blocking up in the engine, I'll have to do some research on that - it makes you wonder. Then again its going to loosen up at some point when its amassed too much, better to try and flush it out before it gets too bad? Thats if it hasn't been done regularly to start with. Its a pity garages can't come up with a way to jet an engine out the same way you'd use a powerwash (or maybe they have) sounds daft maybe, I don't know.
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Jonathan Cox View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-February-2003 at 17:20

You're not really supposed to rev an automatic, as this damages the vains in the box, that's why the engine flush made by Comma is ideal for auto's.

Don't get me wrong, when I said about the sludge, I didn't mean the oil would come out like treacle....just darker and slightly thicker than when it was put into the engine!  I mean depending on how long the oil has been in the engine also depends on the condition, other factors include standing time of the vehicle how often it's used, mixture of the air/fuel, too rich and the oil turns black and smell of fuel, and how good the condition of the engine is etc......

The thing about blocking passage ways, well I mean oil doesn't get thick enough to block passage ways, so thats a bit far fetched.  But then if it's left in for years, and the engine never started, then I suppose this could happen!

Just remember to change your oil regularly 3000-4000miles, filter every other oil change together with a flush and you won't have any problems, no matter how hard you push your engine.

Jonathan, Manchester.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2003 at 10:06

To Fire 4121...

Your root problem is cam and follower wear, very common on the M40. There is much improved design (using roller followers) available in Germany from a M40 machinist. E.mail me if you want more details.

BTW, the same German guy strongly disagrees about putting less than a 10W oil in the M40. Whether it synthetic or not is not so much an issue.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-February-2003 at 15:01

Thanks for all the replies, a mixed bunch!

 

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