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#idle cut out when warm.please help!

Printed From: Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum
Category: Technical & Model Specific Forums
Forum Name: BMW 3 Series
Forum Discription: This forum will deal with any issues on the BMW 3 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E90, E91 & E92)
URL: http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=16498
Printed Date: 02-May-2024 at 14:17


Topic: #idle cut out when warm.please help!
Posted By: bombmw
Subject: #idle cut out when warm.please help!
Date Posted: 11-April-2005 at 02:44

hey yal, Iv got a 325i e30 i love it had it for bout a year.done a few minor mods,the problem is right i can drive it for a while but then at idle always when its warmer ,still not hot around a quarter temp gauge!it will just die!i can then push start it but cant ignition start.if it starts it may die straight away or go for a little while till idling again to die>if its still running i can keep the revs up at a standstil and it wont die but otherwise it does very very odd!!!! Iv done a fair few things changed computer the coil leads dizzy etc but same prob still there if anyone knows any info and could hit me back it would be much appreciated!R




Replies:
Posted By: whiterider
Date Posted: 11-April-2005 at 11:14
My husband had the same thing with a Toyota Celica GT, the cold start injector was playing up so it would run cold fine, run hot fine, but in between same as yours. Often wouldn't restart for half an hour or so, embarrasing at petrol station!  I think he heavily overdosed fuel system with injector cleaner and it sorted it. Hope it helps.


Posted By: micky_h
Date Posted: 11-April-2005 at 12:04
I had something similar happen on a 306 Gti6,turned out to be the battery strangley enough.Might be worth getting yours tested.
If anyone off the North East Regional forum reads this then yes I don't have much luck with batteries .The day I borrowed my Bro's car, while the M was being sorted,it wouldn't start coz of a flat battery not nice at 6 am trying to go to work lol


Posted By: bombmw
Date Posted: 12-April-2005 at 01:09

Thanks guys il def try the injector flush.About the battery though i tried that when it died one time got jumper leads but that still didnt turn it over.

The other thing too love bout the temp it will cut out at hot as well not sure if ul know anymore!Cheers for the replies and any more suggestions welcome!



Posted By: M3AG
Date Posted: 12-April-2005 at 06:56
Alternator maybe? Or has a power steering pump belt jumped or got stuck, this can cause the engine to die and not restart/turn over!
What condition are your HT leads?
The injector flush will only clean the injectors, what you need to do is find the Cold Start valve, and ensure it's clean/working or even the Idle control valve, these where fitted can gum up, so a clean with carb cleaner can do wonders.


Posted By: Madrab
Date Posted: 14-April-2005 at 07:08

Has the water temperature sensor been checked too?

Rob



-------------
1990 E3o 325i Touring and she's definately a she! Pain in the ass sometimes but goes like a bunny :oD


Posted By: bombmw
Date Posted: 15-April-2005 at 02:12

hey thanks guys those things do sound like good suggestions il get onto those.

just another question though if the air flow meter was playing up cos it doesnt read after about 4500 revs most of the time sometimes it spike past but just wondering if the air flow meter was playing up then just stops when hot could that be a possibility??ta



Posted By: Andrew Rolland
Date Posted: 15-April-2005 at 04:17

My 2p worth is the Idle control valve or the temperature sensor.

The ICV operates to allow more or less air into the throttle housing in thoose inbetween temperatures when idling.

Remove it from the car and give it a blast with Wynns Carb and injector cleaner. 

Have you tried a diagnostic check?

Andrew



-------------
Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!

Current
'13 62 F10 535i MSport Auto

Previous
'04 04 E60 545i SE Auto
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Posted By: bombmw
Date Posted: 15-April-2005 at 07:41

Hey dude yea the guy at the shop put it on the computer and checked it out but apparently it die on him so he wasnt able to catch it was that caused the problem!

Its a real ghost, hes had a play with it on a number of occasions and he thinks it could also be some wiring problems there is a big short in the circuit somewhere as well.

Its really annoying cos i love the car but when its not reliable its just a headache haha but cheers.Would u be able to let me know where the icv is exactlt so i wouldnt hav to take it to the shop again !

Sorry im not the most knowledgable when it comes to working on them!!ta



Posted By: Andrew Rolland
Date Posted: 15-April-2005 at 08:13

Umm not having an E30 myself I'll try and describe where it will be.

Basically the ICV serves as a bypass valve.  It allows air to get to the inlet manifold while the throttle valve is shut by bypassing the throttle valve.  The valve is opened and closed by the ecu.  At idle the throttle valve will be shut but the engine is still running so it must be getting a supply of air from somewhere - this somewhere is a route through the ICV. As you press the loud pedal the throttle valve opens and the ICV closes.  If the valve sticks while it is moving you will end up with not enough air flow on idle and she'll stall or you'll end up with too much air flow while driving and she'll run weak and hesitate and or stall.

Locate your throttle body, where the throttle linkage is.  At the front of the throttle body will be the main air intake tube, the tube between air filter housing and throttle body.  Now there should be another smaller diameter hose (20-30 mm) that leaves the main air intake tube at a junction.  This junction may be hidden on the underside of the main air intake tube.  This small diameter hose will then lead to and terminate in a silver round object.  This object is the ICV.  There will be another hose that leaves the ICV on the other side and this hose then joins up to the inlet manifold after the throttle housing.

Visit http://www.e36coupe.com - www.e36coupe.com for how to do it on an E36.  Look up the technical bit and you should find it.

Andrew



-------------
Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!

Current
'13 62 F10 535i MSport Auto

Previous
'04 04 E60 545i SE Auto
'03 53 E60 545i SE Auto (Stolen)
'98 S E39 523i SE Auto


Posted By: Madrab
Date Posted: 15-April-2005 at 08:58

If you look at this page and at number 5, that is the Idle Control Valve. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1112&mospid=47263&prod=19890100&btnr=13_0597&hg=13&fg=15 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1112&mospi d=47263&prod=19890100&btnr=13_0597&hg=13&fg= 15

In the picture the thoughput pipes are in an L shaped, but on my 325i tourer it is T shaped but it gives you what and where you should be looking for.

If it was showing up on a diagnostics then it should be there whether he has 'caught it' or not. The ECU should store the fault code if there is one unless it is being cleared and he should be able to read that.

Cheers Rob



-------------
1990 E3o 325i Touring and she's definately a she! Pain in the ass sometimes but goes like a bunny :oD



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