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NOISE DRIVING ME CRAZY

Printed From: Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum
Category: Technical & Model Specific Forums
Forum Name: BMW 3 Series
Forum Discription: This forum will deal with any issues on the BMW 3 Series (E21, E30, E36, E46, E90, E91 & E92)
URL: http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=20742
Printed Date: 02-May-2024 at 20:26


Topic: NOISE DRIVING ME CRAZY
Posted By: skanders
Subject: NOISE DRIVING ME CRAZY
Date Posted: 10-August-2005 at 18:12
My engine has been making a lot of noise today it was low on oil
and it was making that noise it would make when u  first start
it up from cold the tappet noise and then it would  shut up
and be fine well anyway it was low on oil and it was making
that noise and it was quiet but then when i put in some oil
which was fully synthetic 0w-40w it became louder and louder
until it was annoying and embaressing as people were looking
when i was in a busy street,

anyway on the way home from work i got on the duel carriage way and the car was driving fine the revs were the same as always so on the carriage way it was making the same noise and after 10 mins of driving i decided to put in 3rd and really hammer it it went up to 5000
revs in 3rd and then went to 4th and 5th gear after that it
seemd fine and sounded normal as it would do all the way home
any ideas as to what it might be as i suspect it may return
in the morning when i start it up any resolutions.

Its a 1992 BMW 320I



Replies:
Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 11-August-2005 at 02:54
Are the tappets hydraulic?

If so, this noise is expected because the tappets will only adjust to the correct clearance once sufficient oil pressure has built up in them. 


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 11-August-2005 at 18:17
I was thinking guys the clattering is not coming from the  tappets i dont think it seems to be  the  fan area  its more  of a  clunking clattering sound could it be the  oil filter not seating properly as it sounds like a tinny kind of noise , or the  water pump maybe ?, its really annoying and it is intermittent  and seems to get faster with the fan when  u accelerate or rev it at idle.

let me know.


Posted By: ewan.c
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 03:34

If its a clattering, from the front, start it up, pop the bonnet and watch the belt and see if you notice it not running smoothely.

Sounds similar to what I had when the water pump went, but it went downhill in a matter of miles so beware!



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Posted By: GavMac
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 05:13

To be honest i would go with the water pump as well, i had a 320 for 5 years 160,000 miles on the clock when i sold it, and the water pump was the only thing to let me down very common problem on those engines, you might find the clunking you are referring to is the bearing breaking up and will probably start passing water soon (If thats is what is wrong).

Take the belt off and give it a spin and listen for a grinding or growl, or even just check for play on the bearing.

Gav beerchug

 



-------------
M3 Evo


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 05:53
Ok gents well anyway i stopped the fan and it was still making that noise so it cant be the waterpump, I then checked the oil filter jus in case it was rattling around in their while doing that the oil went everywhere it went on the pulley wheels and the belt, i then put it back in and started her up and hey presto no more noise switched off and then on again and again no more noise maybe i solved it somehow in a freak way anyway im gonna go to work now so i will know for sure after travelling 25 miles.

thanks for the advice so far jus a couple of things can u tell me where the vanos is on my engine as the haynes manual dont even list it and also the timing chain.

thanks.


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 11:50
Is the fan attached to the water pump on these engines then?


Posted By: bmw325tds
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 12:28

he fan is connected, but ny a viscous coupling, so it has a clutch that engages at a particular temparture.

Just because you stopped the fan, it doesn't meant he waterpump stop - it just means the fans not engaged!

I would go with waterpump too - is the fan running smoothly when it is engaged (and can you stop it at all times, in which case the fans knackered as well.)

Just a quick tip - if the waterpump needs replacing, do the thermostat at the same time - it's only a tenner, and sits behind the waterpump, so renew at same time!  I did this on mine, and the car now comes up to temp much quicker.



-------------
Carl

Ford Focus 1.8TDdi Estate
Ford Focus 1.8TDdi
Porsche 944 Turbo

BM's gone, but maybe only temporary!


Posted By: GavMac
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 12:43

How did you stop the fan, did you disconnect the belt?

Vanos, there isn't one on that engine. But if there was it would it would be at the front of the engine at the top where the camshaft pulleys are.

Timing chain is usually covered but on the front of the engine.

 

Gav  beerchug



-------------
M3 Evo


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 12-August-2005 at 13:28
Disconnect the  belt that drives the water pump then and you should find out if it is the water pump or not that is causing the noise.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 05:55
I think i put in the wrong oil grade  the oil was  low when i checked it , it was jus under the mark  I put in some cheap halfords  0w-30w would the oil not be thick enough cause noise in the engine.

I am gonna drain it all and put in some 15w-40 oil and see what happens.


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 06:18
Yes, too thin an oil and cause the engine to be noisy, but I doubt that it would be so noisy that is causes embarrassment! 

By all means change the oil if the wrong grade is in it, but if that really was the case, you would have probably damaged the engine by now. 


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 07:01
But another thing the noise is intermittent ,
-
At idle the noise only happens when it is below the 1000rpm mark about 750rpm but if i raise it to 3000rpm and let it drop it goes away
-
While driving the noise most of the time is constant but it can shut up  after a half hour drive
-



Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 08:06
Ok dudes i bought some oil exactly as it says in the manual  which is multigrade oil  20w/50 a gallon for £4.99 so  here i go  am gonna totally drain it and then  fill her up and see what happens.




Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 13:26
Still got the same  rattleing noise but when i removed the belt and tried it  it went away  upon further diags it seems to be the oil pump  making it  it doesnt look damaged or anything.

does it need more oil ?




Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 14:37
Sorry, but I'm getting confused.

You seem to be jumping from one place to the next.  So far, you've suggested the noise as being caused by the incorrect grade of oil, the water pump, the fan and now the oil pump.

What have you done exactly to make you think this way?

I'm not familiar with this engine so maybe its my own lack of knowledge which is causing this, but from my experience, most oil pumps tend to be driven off a gear and not a belt.

Can you clarify?




Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 16:15
Well to be totally honest  im not sure if it is an oil pump or not  but when i opened it to take it off  oil came out so  i am assuming that it is  the oil pump as at the front it has a  wheel  and the belt goes around that wheel and  the  noise is coming  from that  area.




Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 16:29
lux auto your question answered follow link

http://www.indiacar.com/infobank/oilpumps.htm


Posted By: GavMac
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 17:12

Originally posted by skanders skanders wrote:

Well to be totally honest  im not sure if it is an oil pump or not  but when i opened it to take it off  oil came out so  i am assuming that it is  the oil pump as at the front it has a  wheel  and the belt goes around that wheel and  the  noise is coming  from that  area.


This is the oil pump setup on your car, chain driven as you can see.

Item number one on this picture is the water pump which is belt driven and the fan is attached.

This is a picture of the complete engine where you can see the water pump, oil filter housing and most other parts you have referred too.

My only question would be was it the water pump you removed?

 

Gav   beerchug



-------------
M3 Evo


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 17:46
No mate  I removed the  one  at the bottom under neath the alternator that is the one that was making  the noise


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 13-August-2005 at 20:09
On my engine its the one circled red in the pictures can someone tell me what this is.

thanks.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 05:29
Jus found out what it is and it seems to be the power steering pump.




Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 11:17
Don't take this the wrong way skanders, but I would advise against working further on your car until you understand what you are doing.

You could be doing more damage than good.

However, if you are feeling in a fearless mood, you can establish whether the part that you have worked on is the power steering pump by checking to see if there are  pipes going to the steering rack.

If so, it is the ps pump.  The oil that dripped out should also be a different colour from the oil in your engine (usually red)

I've never heard a worn ps pump clatter before as they usually whine, but I could be wrong.  Once again, if you want to determine whether it is this unit that is cauing the noise, isolate it by removing the belt.

Also, what do you mean when you say you opened the pump?  Most PS pumps tend to be sealed units nowadays.

I can't really make out what the unit is in the pci above.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 12:35
Yes  it is the power steering pump the noise has stopped but the  fluid is low and i have to power steering.

But now since putting the rad back in the car is overheating again as it did before but was fixed replaced the thermo, coupling, definately have to be an airlock.




Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 12:42
if the system was not overheating prior to you removing it, then it is an airlock.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 16:29
Yes solved that but would low power steering fluid  cause an  all mighty  screeching noise when the revs are above 2000rpm cos that is what it is doing now  but when the car is  idling  its ok  no noise


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 16:31
please it would be a great help if u could provide the best  and detailed info if you can as i  have been at it since  10.30am this morning and hav only stopped  jus now and am extremely stressed and upset.

I dont wanna take to an engineer jus yet cos it may be really simpler


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 17:21
If  you are getting a screeching noise when you rev the engine (a noise like wheel spinning), then it's the drive belt (either PAS and/or alternator). 

It's probably worn and will need replacing.  Examine the belt for cracks and wear along the sides.  If  the belt is OK, examine the pulleys.

It's difficult to give you detailed advice because I don;t know what you are doing.  You are jumping from one place to another and not updating as you go along.

Tell me what you have done (from the beginning) and I'll do my best.





Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 17:23
What is your current problem?

Lets start form there instead.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 17:35
Ok my current problem is that i am now getting a whining noise from the engine, as i have explained in previous posts that i was originally getting a rattling noise and some suggested that it was the oil viscosity so i drained and topped up still the rattle remained took the belt off and it went away no more rattle inspected the water pump and it was ok decided to go for the power steering pump and took it out it sounded a bit rattly like something was moving around in there so popped it back in and then started the engine no more rattle but now a whining  noise as explained in the next few steps as and when and how it happens
-
When it is idling below the 1000rpm mark its fine no noise
-
But when u step on the accelerator and up the revs it starts to  make a horrible whining and screeching kind of noise when it is above 1000rpm and above
-
Dont think it is the belt as i have checked it and it was fine
-
Made sure the belt was'nt coming off or off position seemed fine.
-
Power steering fluid is low so i am wanting to know if this would make that horrible noise i have no power steering and turning the wheel is almost impossible if you guys want arms like arnie forget the gym come and steer my car lol
-
any ideas sorry for the mixed posts but i am totally stressed


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 17:53
OK, first  thing, if you are low on  power steering fluid,  don't start up the engine again until you've topped it up.   You risk damaging both the pump and the rack if you  run it with insufficient fluid.

Once, you have bought some fluid, top it up as necessary and then bleed it.  Not sure about BMWs, but the beelding process should be the same no matter what car you drive.  Leave the cap off the reservior and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, slowly and smoothly.

Do this for a couple of minutes.

The heavy steering is caused by the low fluid level.

Did you have this screeching problem before you removed the PAS pump?

Also, although you have checked the belt condition, have you checked that it is tight enough? Screeching is usually indicative of a worn belt, end even though there aren't any cracks etc, the sides could be worn.  V belts use their sides to drive the pulleys, so wear isnt always immeidately apparent.  Are the sides of the belt all shiney?

Whining is more indicative of a worn pump or rack, but usually pump.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 14-August-2005 at 18:40
No i didnt have the screeching problem before i removed the pump it was a rattling sound but it was a rattling as soon as u start the engine and at idle but was very intermittent.
-
But now as mentioned it does not rattle or whine at idle but occurs when the car is revved above 1000rpm
-
The side of the belt is not shiny looks a bit rugged though but have checked that it is on ok and not rubbing anywhere also is it normal for the belt to get warm
-
And another thing which is baffling me is that the rattle has gone away if the pump was on its way out or was damaged would not the rattle jus continue on rather than shut up why would it stop when taken out and put back ? in cos i would take that the pump is whining cos of low steering fluid after reading various posts on other sites and googling this problem.
-





Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 15-August-2005 at 13:19
Get some oil into the pas system and  let me know how you get on.  Until you've topped up the fluid,  there's not much point  in discussing anything else as you might find  all your problems  cured by then.

From my expereince, worn pumps tend to whine rather than clatter.  The only time I have heard a pas pump clatter was when the mounting bolts had come loose. 

Insufficient fluid as well as air in the system can cause screeching but whether it is the belt or pump remains to be seen.  Put some fluid in it and we'll take it from there.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 15-August-2005 at 14:11
Well i gave up and hung up the bat sign and called ma dad who is way more experienced with cars and  can almost  fix anything anyway he had a look and says that it is the tensioner that has had it.

The place that it goes in comes out as well as the spring i did notice that the belt was running a little wobbly but it has been working fine like this thus far.

So i need a new tensioner and a new belt.

The power steering is ok and has returned after filling it up any idea how much or where i can get one from.

thanks. 


Posted By: GavMac
Date Posted: 15-August-2005 at 14:21

Euro Car Parts, GSF, or BMW

About £38 for tensioner and £15 - 20 for new belt.

 

Gav



-------------
M3 Evo


Posted By: Grubbins
Date Posted: 16-August-2005 at 06:57

Hi

Not to add to the confussion here, but quote from Skanders earlier post "I then checked the oil filter jus in case it was rattling around in their while doing that the oil went everywhere it went on the pulley wheels and the belt,"

Could that be causing the screaching sound?  Has this all been cleaned up?



-------------
320d SE Touring (E46)


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 16-August-2005 at 12:39
No because the oil filter is actually compressed  against the top , and from memoery has rubbers at the base and top, so there should be no opportunity for rattling.  Rattling will only  occur if a foreign object was present.

Also, as the filter housing is full of oil, any noise would be suppressed by the oil.  Even if rattling was to occur, I doubt it would be loud enough to turn heads.

Oil on the pulleys,a although likely to cause slissping shouldn;t screech as the oil will be lubricating the two contact surfaces.

Think he has sorted it anyway, the belt tensioner was worn.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 16-August-2005 at 14:11
Yes it seems that way  my dad says that one of the nuts on the tensioner  was loose and thats what caused it to slip.

anyway bmw want £75 for a new tensioner and £30 for a new belt way expensive but if its got to be done then i will.

thanks hope i will have my car back in on the road as i miss the damn thing.

jus 2 more ? would a loss of tension cause the rattling sound that i mentioned in the first place.

And should the belt run completely straight on the pulleys without it wobbling or does it wobble just a little bit.

cheers.


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 16-August-2005 at 14:43
No, loss of tension would not cause rattling, unless the tension loss was a result of the tensioner coming loose, in which case yes.

The belt and pulleys should be perfectly straight.  There might be a  very slight wobble due to the runout on the pulleys but anymore than that and the belt is too loose.

To determine the correct belt tension, a rough rule of thumb is to turn the belt (at it's longest run) through 90 degrees. If you can just about achieve this, it should be tight enough, anymore than this, then the belt is too loose.


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 16-August-2005 at 15:18
Yup when he got the tensioner out the spring had come out and it wouild not not go back in and stay in.




Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 17-August-2005 at 15:22

Anyway we got a new tensioner and we put it in the vehicle but it seems although the bracket has been tightened enough its still moving a little you can move it by hand and it is shaky is this normal cos i dont seem to remember it being like this, also when the belt has been tightened it still comes off when you rev the car faster.

could it be becos the bracket is moving around? or have we missed something like a part that came off and forgot to put back on a washer maybe ?

please advise.



Posted By: TRACKPIG
Date Posted: 17-August-2005 at 17:43
why not just take it to a garage and have it fitted. i would rather pay the minimal cost than bust my ass like it seems you been doing!

-------------
REMEMBER- POWER IS NOTHING WITHOUT KELLY REMOULDS
E30 325 Sport - Gone but not forgotten
E36 M3 evo
Suzuki GSXR 750 Track Piece


Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 18-August-2005 at 15:18
What do you mean when you say you can move it by hand?

Have you checked that all the pulleys are lined up?


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 18-August-2005 at 15:48
is ok situation resolved thanks to all who replied.




Posted By: LuxAuto
Date Posted: 18-August-2005 at 18:49
What was  the problem in the end?


Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 19-August-2005 at 06:27

It was the belt that was worn and also there was a screw missing where the pwr steering



Posted By: skanders
Date Posted: 19-August-2005 at 06:28

the belt needed changing and their was a screw missing where the pwr steering pump goes.

replaced those and it tested ok.

 




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