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e39 inlet camshaft sensor

Printed From: Bavarian-Board.co.uk - BMW Owners Discussion Forum
Category: Technical & Model Specific Forums
Forum Name: BMW 5 Series
Forum Discription: This forum will deal with any issues on the BMW 5 Series (E12, E28, E34, E39, E60 & E61)
URL: http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=39992
Printed Date: 19-May-2024 at 06:16


Topic: e39 inlet camshaft sensor
Posted By: BungManWheels
Subject: e39 inlet camshaft sensor
Date Posted: 16-January-2008 at 17:58

Hi I m new to this forum and was wondering if someone could give me some advice.

I have a 523 e39, 2000 model, the engine kept cutting out, i had it tested and it showed the inlet camshaft sensor was faulty.

I can fit this myself however wanted to know if it would need to be set electronically once fitted, or is it plug back in and away you go!

Any help much appreciated.




Replies:
Posted By: Cambell
Date Posted: 16-January-2008 at 19:15

Hi B M W,

Firstly welcome to the forum.

I had to replace my camshaft sensor too and to be honest its not too bad a job. The hardest part is getting the sensor plugged in as the connector is under the inlet manifold. The easiest way I found was to remove the top off the oil filter as this allows fairly free access to the connector. Otherwise you just cant get your arm through the space. The next tricky bit is routing the cable round the clipped in housing on the front of the head housing.

Just to cheer you up, when I had my car on the diagnostic machine it said cam shaft sensor, I replaced it and the fault was still there. It actually turned out to be the crank shaft position sensor that was at fault. The connector plug is right next to the cam shaft sensor plug.

My E39 has now lost the slight miss it had at about 5000 rpm ( I thought it was the rev limiter kicking in) and revs freely and quickly through the whole range.

In both instances, the sensors are plug and play, no programming req'd.

Hope this helps

Cambell



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Posted By: 540 V8
Date Posted: 17-January-2008 at 08:00

The only thing you may have to do is get the faults erased from the memory.

Mike



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Current:E34 540i Touring 6 speed manual(Mpower bodykit & suspension)& Chrysler Voyager 3.3 V6 auto
Previous:E34 530iSE AC Schnitzer suspension.
E28 525e auto-Standard


Posted By: Andrew Rolland
Date Posted: 17-January-2008 at 08:26

Welcome

You can change most electrical items on the E39 for new ones and the car will then learn that a new and working bit has been plugged in and will soon adapt to the new bit.

Mike is correct in saying that the fault code will still be there but it won't matter.  If in the future your car develops a fault and you get the diagnostics read chances are that they will see the fault and delete it anyway.  This won't harm the car.

This also applies to E39 wheel sensors.

Andrew



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Be exclusive and drive a Petrol 5 Series!

Current
'13 62 F10 535i MSport Auto

Previous
'04 04 E60 545i SE Auto
'03 53 E60 545i SE Auto (Stolen)
'98 S E39 523i SE Auto


Posted By: BungManWheels
Date Posted: 18-January-2008 at 14:27

Hi

Campbell, Mike and Andrew thank you for your help youve all been great.

 

Campbell, you said the fault on your car turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. Before you sorted out the prblem was your car cutting out like mine or was it just missing slightly.

Thanks

B M W



Posted By: kbannon
Date Posted: 18-January-2008 at 14:56
I had to do the crank sensor on mine and its a bit worse because a water hose covers the sensor end.
As cambell said, remove the cap off the oil filter housing (36mm?). You will need to follow the cable back as the crank and cam sensors plug in side by side and you don't want to go to the effort of taking the wrong one out.
You will also possibly have to remove an oil feed pipe at the front of the engine (I did with the crank sensor). Its an easy enough job, but a bit tight to work under the inlet manifold (if you are as strong and muscular as I am )


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Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
Previous: 1989 E30 320i SE
1997 E39 523i
2003 E39 525i Sport Individual


Posted By: Cambell
Date Posted: 18-January-2008 at 23:20

Originally posted by kbannon kbannon wrote:

Its an easy enough job, but a bit tight to work under the inlet manifold (if you are as strong and muscular as I am )

Luckily, I have girly arms !!



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Posted By: kbannon
Date Posted: 19-January-2008 at 00:58
Much like me then 

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Current: 2009 E60 520d "Sport" tractor
Previous: 1989 E30 320i SE
1997 E39 523i
2003 E39 525i Sport Individual


Posted By: Jerry 523i
Date Posted: 27-January-2008 at 13:52

You also need to remove your Vanos if you have one to get the sensor out.

A very large adjustable (300 mm) wrench does the job.

I was going to post a photo article on this... but like most good plans it got shelved! I have the photos somewhere though I'll try and dig them out if it'll help!

Like all the others say the plug is the nasty bit, I had cuts and grazes all over my arm.

....REALLY IMPORTANT ....REALLY IMPORTANT....

Do not buy a sensor from any one else than BMW, they break really quickly. I found this out the hard way, I got a sensor from a pattern part supplier for 57 quid. Fitted it and it made no difference at all. (I had not fault codes registered at all)

I changed MAF, ICV, Temp sensors, Cleaned injectors, but still had the same fault. Really bad lack of power on up hill pulloffs, even worse in hot weather. Finally I found an article on an American BMW forum where the bloke always carried spare sensors on his boot cos they were really prone to burning out, according to him. I didn't want to but yet another part to find out it didn't help so posted a request on the BMW used parts gateway. Got a reply from one firm saying: "Sorry we do not have the part, but don't use pattern ones thay are like chocolate in the engine!"

I went to BMW, paid only a few pounds  more than the pattern one, and within an hour had fitted a new CPS with startling results, I could now spin the weels and make the anti skid control light up.  Life got a whole lot better! Fuel consumption was always at around 24 mpg, is now always around 28 mpg and over 30 on the motoway going 70 - 85 mph.

I forgot to say, it will work better if you re-set your accomodation values, it is not required just quicket to get back to normal.

I think disconnect of battery for 10-20 minutes does the job too.



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1998 523i SE Touring 75k


Posted By: bmr4evr
Date Posted: 11-May-2008 at 08:34
Originally posted by Cambell Cambell wrote:

Just to cheer you up, when I had my car on the diagnostic machine it said cam shaft sensor, I replaced it and the fault was still there. It actually turned out to be the crank shaft position sensor that was at fault. The connector plug is right next to the cam shaft sensor plug.



hi Cambell,

how did you figure out that it was the crank shaft position sensor that was at fault, and not the cam shaft position sensor?




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