Hi again,

The other day both the ABS and traction control lights on my dash lit up and have since stayed on. I have a 2000 528i Sport.

I did notice a grinding noise when i pressed the brake but i didn't think anything of it as the car hadn't moved for 6 days, and i thought it would clear (it did).

The brakes do feel a bit juddery now though and i'm going to have a look at them within the next couple of days.

Could it just be grit/salt from the roads or is there something more serious crying out for my attention??

mine did this on my e36 323 , it was my front r/h abs sensor , changed both at same time , spot on now

Yeah classic E39 fault.

You more than likely have a faulty wheel sensor.

This needs to be diagnosed by a garage with the car hooked up to the diagnostic machine.  This will identify the faulty sensor.  A new OEM sensor from ECP will set you back about £60.  It is an easy 30 min diy job provided you have a 5 mm Allen key.

Once the new sensor is fitted the fault light will remain on until you have driven a short distance.  After this the light will go out and the car will behave normally.  the fault however will still remain buried away in the cars brain but this is nowt to worry about.

Do a search on here and you will find plenty of similar threads including at least two from me! 

Andrew

Welcome to the forum.

Yes it is possible but you should get a diagnostic check done to confirm this.

Andrew

I've got my car booked in on Wed to get it hooked up to the diagnostic m/c to see which sensor is faulty.

You guys were right, my mechanic said it was a common fault on E39's.

Thanks for your help.

Only a week after I got my car back with a new front passenger side sensor the traction control and abs lights are back on!!

It's back in to get hooked up to the diagnostic m/c today but the mechanic seems to think it may be the abs module.

That sound about right to you guys??

Stuganderson wrote: Only a week after I got my car back with a new front passenger side sensor the traction control and abs lights are back on!! It's back in to get hooked up to the diagnostic m/c today but the mechanic seems to think it may be the abs module. That sound about right to you guys??

Yes it is unfortunatley.  When my first wheel sensor failed, the gargae that diagnosed it for me told me that it could be either the wheel sensor (front offside) or the ABS unit itself.  Their advice was to swap out the sensor as this was the cheap(er) fix.  In both of my cases it was just the wheel sensor.

Although I'm sure on 5 owner had a fault with a connection or a broken wire which indicated a fault but the wheel sensor was o.k. as was the ABS unit, but I think it was a struggle to find the fault though.

Keep us posted 

Andrew

After having it diagnosed again, it's registering a fault with another two sensors. The same one which has been changed on the front and also one on the back.

I read somewhere that if the cruise control or the speedo are not working then that could indicate a sensor fault on the back wheels.

My cruise and speedo are working as normal.

My brakes are now making a hell of a noise too, a grinding noise but with a springy, spongy feel as well.

Something 'aint right!!

I wonder if there is any possibility of an issue with an ABS relay or something like that that could be causing misleading errors to be reported on the diags?

I had an e36 325i that showed an ABS warning light but couldn't get in to the diags to read the faults.  When one of the relays was changed, hey presto, the diags were available again and then the correct problem could be identified.  I know its not a direct parallel but it might be worth thinking about. 

kbannon wrote: Fergi wrote: I've also got this problem, am I right in thinking if you get the ABS/DSC light on and lose your speedo and fuel consumption gauge the sensor at fault is the N/S rear? It is most likely a sensor but it could be anything else within the system hence Andrew's recommendation for a diagnosis. When my ASC light went on my '97 E39, it was the bowden cable ( http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DD32&mospid=47539&btnr=13_0413&hg=13&fg=15 - #3 here )

The bowdenwire is only on cars before 09/98 and gives ONLY ASC light not ABS.  A sensor gives both ABS/ASC light

Stuganderson wrote: After having it diagnosed again, it's registering a fault with another two sensors. The same one which has been changed on the front and also one on the back. I read somewhere that if the cruise control or the speedo are not working then that could indicate a sensor fault on the back wheels. My cruise and speedo are working as normal. My brakes are now making a hell of a noise too, a grinding noise but with a springy, spongy feel as well. Something 'aint right!!

Hi first of all, the sensor you changed in front, no problem with that no drilling out or some parts of the old sensor still in the hole.? Its very easy to damage the trigger points in the wheelbearing if you need to drill the sensor out. Then you get problem when out break when you drivs slow, if the sensor cant read properly from the triggerpoints it think the wheel is standing still and the ABS starts pumping.

But I think you get a typical fault fore modulproblem, there is no diagnos who can say that the modul is faulty its says sensorfaulty or ABS in and outlet valve insstead.

Best to have is BMW INPA Ediabas with a laptop there you can se  live how the sensorsignal works if you dont have any problems with the sensorsignals when you drivs the car its proberly the absmoduls its a very commen faulty on -99-00 E39/E38 I have seen at least 500-600 cars all over the world the last 7-8 years.

BMW Inpa could look like this in live when a frontsensor is faulty when you drive the car.

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00015152_s640.jpg - http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00015152_s640. jpg

http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00015153_s640.jpg - http://www.autopower.se/galleriet/bloggbilder/00015153_s640. jpg

It's looking increasing like the Abs conrol unit is faulty.

Is it as easy as removing the six bolts to remove it? I know i can send it away to get it refurbished so i'm thinking if it's that easy i'll do it myself.

Garage thinks the Abs module is faulty, but he is talking about replacing the whole unit, eg the pump part and the control unit which i believe is bolted on the front of the pump.

The whole unit is obviously quite pricey, i'm just wondering if i need to? Does the Abs pump fail often or is it a case of just replacing the control unit?

No the hydralic unit is without problem  I dont know any at all who have fail so far..

Its not difficult to take away the elektronicmodul from the hydralunit se pictures here, you can drive the car without the modul if you cover the hydralunit with plastic but you have no speedo or ABS breaks.

http://www.autopower.se/mekartips/mekartips.asp?dokid=103 - http://www.autopower.se/mekartips/mekartips.asp?dokid=103

In Sweden we send the unit fore repair to USA, this have worked perfect most of the times. They are very good to deal with in some cases that the unit would not work people get there money back without problems, it have happend 2 or 3 times of all moduls we have send over.

http://www.modulemaster.com/ - http://www.modulemaster.com/

Thanks Hasso, you certainly know your way about the engine bay!

I'll remove the module as soon as i can and get it sent away for refurbishment.

Many thanks.

Having a similar problem with my 535i at present. Garage reckon it's a dry solder joint in the ABS unit. Going off for refurbishment as we speak (substantially cheaper than a new replacement!).

Doesn't actually affect the car, just wind up with Blackpool illuminations on the dash!

Hi again,

I got a call from the place where i sent my Abs module off to today. They couldn't find any fault with my unit.

The guy on the phone suggested it may be a wiring issue. I assume he meant the wires going into/out from the sensors??

I was so hoping i'd get the module back and i could re-install it and the problem would be solved. No such luck!!!

Stuganderson wrote: The guy on the phone suggested it may be a wiring issue. I assume he meant the wires going into/out from the sensors??

T'is not un heard off.

See the thread Big pimpin mentioned.

http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=41331&KW=big+pimpin - http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/forum_posts.asp?TID=41331&am p;KW=big+pimpin

Will be tricky to find though. And will mibbie still cost you a few quid to sort out.

Andrew

Hello again,

Still haven't got these pesky lights to go out on my dash yet.

I had the wheels off and had a look at the sensors for myself. Are they the black ones or the longer blue ones?

I assume the are the blue ones as i don't have a black one on the front drivers side.

I've had a sensor replaced on the front offside (passenger?) but if it is the blue one it didn't look anything like new!! it was really dirty and when i opened it up there was a little water inside and also small bits of dirt.

I cleaned it out and got all the wheels back on but......you guessed it, the bloody lights are still on!!

Re Stuganderson

It must be your ABS ECU, I had mine repaired at BBA for £125, never bothered changing any of the sensors, fault cured. BBA sent a letter back with my unit stating that wheel sensor faults can be thrown up even when they are all ok, ie: the fault is with the control unit.

I have already sent my ECU away and it got the all clear. I wish it had been faulty then i would now what the problem was!!

Think this is the 8th or 9th week and i'm still no further forward.

Stuart, the abs sensors are fitted to the inside of the front hubs and are virtually at the centre of the hub.  On the nearside front the sensor is located at the 9 o'clock position.  The front sensor is mounted to the hub so that the shaft of the sensor is parallel to the line of the front axle. The nearside rear sensor is positioned at 7 o'clock and is mounted so the shaft of the sensor is positioned radially to the hub.  Or is it 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock....  you know what I'm getting at.

The wire is either black or grey, I think you must be confusing the brake pad wear sensor wire.  Both wires are joined to their respective looms in the same box mounted on the inner wing.  The brake wear sensors are only fitted to the nearside front and the offside rear wheels.

Andrew

I had both my front sensors on my E39 fail virtually exactly 1 year appart.  My local garage did the diagnostics for me both times for free, cos I asked nicely and went in at the crack of dawn.

John, sounds like your battery is on the way out.

Andrew

had a peep at the battery Andrew - it is a (BMW) battery - could it be the original? - didn t see a date on it. the car is a 2000 model. i dont think the battery is supposed to last 9 years. come to think of it - ive noticed a brighter headlight beam when revd.

Cheers

j

Batteries mibbie last for 4 to 6 years?  So your probably coming to the end of the life of the second one.

Replacing a battery can cure a number of weird and wonderful electrical faults.

Andrew