E36 Springs and Dampers

There isn't that muich to know about e36 standard suspension, there are no "various standard set ups" to my knowledge, other than the E36 coupes are all 10mm lower than the 4 doors, as standard.

For more info on part numbers etc, try www.realoem.com

HTH

TBH I've never heard of an amateur / enthusiast modder working at that level of detail. What kind of work have you done to your cars in the past?

MBW1 wrote: jimf671 wrote: Anyone got damper settings? Tests graphs? Yeah, I'll just go and get them. Probably the most ridiculous question I've ever heard. It's a 318i, what are you trying to achieve??

Don't be rude.

LOL so not an amateur then. I think some E36s were entered in some of the Scottish rallies. Can you get the level of detail you're after through you rally contacts? The BMWCC (should you be / become a member) also have access to a specific motorsport contact who again may have the level of detail you seek.

happy hunting

Still don't understand, you don't want to lower it, so why do you want know all about spring dimensions? Are you going to try & fit springs from another car, like a subaru or something?

Can you not measure what you have?

MBW1 wrote: What exactly is wrong with the standard set up as designed and perfected by BMW?

Not very much.

My changes will mean that the car will handle wet roads, hump-back bridges and snow better than the standard car.

MBW1 wrote: I assume you have brand new standard springs, dampers, balljoints and bushes? You will need them to establish a starting point from which to effect an 'improvement'. If you don't.............

This is a very good point that you make and one that I constantly find myself making to others!

When I had the last E36 it was very low mileage and in excellent condition, so I know what the basic spec is like in good condition. This car is a bit more worn. I will replace worn components with better ones where possible. This means better for the environment in which the car will be used and not better for roundabouts in Essex or perfect Wurtemberg/Bavarian blacktop.

My first mod was my usual trick: fitted narrower tyres. Let's see if you can work that one out.

AndyS wrote: ... ... ... whatever it is you're trying to do.

The bushes will end up as a mix of standard and M3.

Regarding compliance, it's a word I use often and compliance is not all bad. The general rule is that all standard cars are soggy at the front and, though it's a very fine chassis as standard, the rule still applies here. Since it's got struts, I immediately look at doubling the front spring rate. This will improve camber control, stability under braking and stability on landing. In this case it probably will not be enough to allow me to dump the anti-roll bar. Any resulting degradation of the turn-in response will be dealt with by geometry changes. The relative compliance of the rear improves by stiffening the front and this should give improvements in traction.

I don't see lowering as an option. The rear is low and stiff just now. This has made the Kinlochhourn road a nightmare. Never again. Suspension travel and compliance can be very precious.

I have been fitting narrower tyres to vehicles for 30 years. This means I can drive balls-out in the wet, the improved tyre bracing gives better responsiveness and the money I save through not having to buy wider wheels and tyres can go on good quality malt whisky. Don't even think about following me through puddles. Currently 195 on 7" and very happy with it.

The differences between early and late 6-cylinder cars has been confusing me already. Which had the stiffest suspension? I have been thinking in terms of late 320/323 but I am not sure. Once I find a spring I think I can use, I will run the calculation in my MathCAD file to find the working length in the 318 and the rate. If it's too long, I might have to cut somthing like half a coil off each end, in which case I will check the stresses as well.

Coilovers are a race toy intended for standardising springs in circumstances where rapid and frequent spring changes are necessary. For road cars, they are a means of reducing manufacturing cost, creating a 'race-bred' marketing tool and rippin' the sh1t out of your wallet. The car goes on forest and estate roads and coilovers would be a disaster on those surfaces.

All more A697 than 'coast road'.

Must go: the kitchen is full of brake and suspension parts!!!

That's sounds good.

Glad to hear good things about the Bilsteins. Do you think a 320/323 front strut would be externally identical with a higher rate?

Standard rear spring almost certainly. Possibly standard 320/323 m-tech front spring.

Good idea with the E30 arms.

Definitely going for the M3 bush on the front arm.

I havent had a serious look at rear bushes yet but I note your recommendation.

The options in the owners manual go one size lower than this. One reason I didnt use a 185 is that nobody would even try to put one on a 7"!!! Probably far too stretched anyway and the tyre's would be like a lifeless brick.

(What I have doone in the past is to submit a modified vehicle report with technical details and appropriate justifications to the insurance company. I have never paid extra. If their people make a disproportionate fuss or are obviously technically incompetent then I just change insurance companies.)

Thanks.

jimf671 wrote: The options in the owners manual go one size lower than this. One reason I didnt use a 185 is that nobody would even try to put one on a 7"!!! Probably far too stretched anyway and the tyre's would be like a lifeless brick.

The 195 & 185(M&S option) were on 6.5" steel rims. The 7x15 alloy wheel option automatically upgraded to 205/60's.

The only time a narrower tyre makes sense is in snow (more than a couple of inches deep). If there'a a lot of standing water a narrower tyre will aquaplane less but since we're only talking 10 or 20mm there won't be much (if anything) in it.

The narrow tyre issue contradicts what you say you're after as the 205 has a lower profile & therefore a stiffer sidewall than the 195 or 185.

You seem to be trying to reduce outright grip in exchange for more adjustable handling? Are you trying to introduce oversteer?

My 328 is on quality 205/60 15's & is fine on all road conditions. Despite what you say about wet roads in Scotlands back-of-beyond, they're no worse than those in the wilds of Northumberland.

don't know what you are tryin to do but i have 325 springs and shocks